I started a thread for Cooks products modifications in the Cooks page so it will not get lost in time like on this page since it's pretty dead in there. Like to see what some of y'all have done to and see where it goes.
Wrapped the control box cable lead with some fire hose split down the side to protect it from walking on it.
Save some wear on it.
My mill is a AC 36.
Have some more ideas for mods but waiting til I get it in permanent spot
There are several places where the hydraulic hoses rub a little on other components. Take some heater hose that's a bit larger and cut it in a spiral an protect the hose. Had one that I had to replace before I started to pay attention to that. This too is on an AC 36, but would apply to any mill.
I have a piece of hard rubber that I am going to make a bumper to cushion the stop when I return a little too hard. Will try to get a picture when I do it.
I also put an electrical disconnect switch in the battery cable. Nearly had a tractor burn once. Banjo
I have an MP32 mill. Had it built to saw 21'. Has the 12v winch log loader and Cooks log ramps. I found it nearly impossible to load a 20' log by myself. I added a second hand winch further down the mill that allows one hand remote control winch operation and one hand winching of the further end of the log to evenly roll a 16-20' log onto the mill by myself. Once on the mill I can just use the electric winch to roll the log. Also included a second log taper with the second winch mount in case the small end of the log should end up down there. Added a full width roller onto the back end of the mill over the tail lights to protect them and make offloading lumber on that end of the mill easier. Also add a receiver tube to the end of the mill to allow moving the pole hitch to that end and allow maneuvering the long mill in driveways that need the mill to go in head first without the tow vehicle being in the way. Added a west coast style mirror to the opposite side rear post to make it possible to keep an eye on the squaring arms while sawing in relation to where the saw is exiting the cut. I don't seem to have as much trouble sawing into the squaring rollers now and I don't have to lean across the frame to eyeball the exit cut. I modified the log ramps so I don't have to remove them from the frame after I load a log onto the mill. Those things are heavy. It is still just a hobby mill but I think it operates much more efficiently now and I know my back appreciates it. It takes way too long to heal up these days.
I put my MP32 mods on the Cooks Saw page.
Gere that's a neat idea of putting a receiver on the back end of your mill. I am stationery, but if I was mobile I would try that. Banjo
The rear hitch made it possible to accept a saw job at a residence were I had to back down a narrow twisty driveway and back up to a large boulder with the head of the mill. It was worth the experiment. I was able to unhitch the mill on the side of the road and switch ends with the tow vehicle and back right in. I made the receiver so it attached to the jack mounts with the jack pins and not have weld on the main frame (just in case it didn't work). I just moved the jack mounts to the end of the receiver and use them like they were intended. If I can ever figure out the process, I will attempt to post some pictures. Unsuccessful so far.
I replaced the thin wipers with some I had my son make ....these are 1/2 thick. No more breaking.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18028/20200204_105605.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1580920729)
I also found a couple new rub spots you might want to protect. I was up top changing a broke cable....when I saw the indentation on the hose
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18028/20200204_105427.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1580918077)
The ones going across the gear box by the hydraulic motor was the worst, but evidently the hose must move up when pressure is put on it because there was a small bit of wear under the bracket pictured. I use heater hose.....Banjo
You guys have given me some things to think about and do. At the very least I need to check for hydraulic hose rubs. Thank you all.
fought a problem of blade rising would cut good for a few cuts then wanted to climb on everything. This went on for a month or two checking alignment bed/blade, Sharping and setting to perfection then found this. Blade rubbing on the upper cover dulling the right teeth.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20928/IMG_20200204_151141083.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1581014563)
Looks like someone used that as a platform to stand on while putting in some oil or greasing some fittings. I do it myself, you just got to watch where you put your weight as that top gard isn't that heavy of metal. Bet you wished you had found that sooner. Banjo
Here is a modification that I am going to do. The little toggle switches have a use cycle of some few thousand flips....I think I remember it being about 20,000. Anyway I have had to change several over the years and the control box on the cord that you can take around with you....has a fifteen foot cord on it....that box is CRAM full of wires running here and there. There is barely enough room to get all the switches in. When I get time and the mojo to do it I am going to put all them switches in this larger water proof electrical box I bought from an electrical warehouse. I have already drilled for the holes and when I get it swapped over .... when a switch goes bad it will be much easier to get in there and swap it out.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18028/20200206_145306.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1581022329)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18028/20200206_145343.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1581022352)
Just kind of dread it. I told one of the guys that used to work for Cooks that I thought the box was too small after the first few quit working. I'll have to enlarge the holder when I do this. I think the box was less than $25.00. Banjo
I thought about taking that a step further and making a radio controlled controller.
Quote from: bushhog920 on February 06, 2020, 10:07:43 PM
I thought about taking that a step further and making a radio controlled controller.
I am actually going to be working on this with my setworks that I made. Im thinking to make the radio controller run the
Head Up/Down
Advance
Return
Saw Guide
and a couple presets.
This is not a modification, but just something I almost accidentally discovered. Keep the end off a broken tape and put it in the tube on the swing arm....AC36 has those ...don't know about other models. Then use that to check logs on the mill instead of wearing out a new tape.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18028/20201206_172444.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1607370286)
It's probably about 30 inches long. Tim
I haven't done much yet other than change some grease fitting to 45s or 90s to make getting a LockNlube grease head to the fittings easier. Some great ideas here.
I added brushes to clean the drive and idle wheels on my MP32. I couldn't find suitably sized brass ones so I used cut-off tooth brushes and much to my surprise it works fairly well. After cutting a 25" pitchy pine there was some streaks of deposits but they were quite small. Brass would be better. They are glued to the metal sliding mechanism with hot glue and it has held the parts together. I will upgrade when I find brass.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13036/Drive_brush.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1637872736)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13036/Idler_brush.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1637872737)
I found some brass brushes on Amazon and replaced the tooth brushes with them. They work a lot better. The pics are after sawing a 17' syp into a 12 x 12 cant removing 1" on a pass.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13036/Brass_idler_brush.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1640887703)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13036/Brass_drive_brush2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1640887702)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13036/Brass_drive_brush.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1640887701)
I have installed a green laser to my saw, but haven't tested it while production sawing. I may have to modify the mounting system since it has heavy magnet holding it in place on the wheel guard on operator's side. No pictures so it may not have happened. ;D ;D
Mill is AC 36.
Cook's Cat Claw Sharpener-
I added a sheet metal dust shroud hooked to a shop-vac since I found the airborne dust irritating. Also added a couple of "automatic blade lubricators":
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/58892/SharpenerMod.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1640914900)
Lazershark- I may be missing the obvious, but what benefit does the blade lube do to the sharpening process on the Cat Claw sharpener? The only thing I can think of is it keeps the wear down on the tensioner. Please forgive my ignorance if there is another reason. ???
Quote from: Gere Flewelling on December 31, 2021, 11:21:37 AM
Lazershark- I may be missing the obvious, but what benefit does the blade lube do to the sharpening process on the Cat Claw sharpener? The only thing I can think of is it keeps the wear down on the tensioner. Please forgive my ignorance if there is another reason. ???
I'm with you, but it might be a good way to lube blades before storage until needed??
Right, rust has been exorcised from this sharpening shop.