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Problem squaring small cedar

Started by Dirtdobber, February 22, 2010, 08:50:17 PM

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Dirtdobber

I'm sure that it's something that I'm not doing right, but not sure what it is. I have a Timberking 1220, I am currently sawing 4x4 cedar posts. After I make my first run thru and turn the log to make my second cut, my log stops are laid over so far for the blade to clear when sawing logs this small and when I clamp it down I can't keep it square. The deck is level, the head is level. I really don't know what else to try. Thanks for any little tricks of the trade or hints that will help me out.

coastlogger

Me myself I would flip it 180 first, get two parallel sides.Then flip it 90, maybe with backstops raised a bit, get it positioned and lightly clanped, drop backstops to where they need to be. If necessary check face with square etc.
clgr

bandmiller2

Dobber,most of us have problems cutting small cedar.When I do I use some blocking and sacrificial boards to back things up.Take your time keep the piece stable and the band above the metal.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Dirtdobber

Thanks Guys, I'm new to sawing myself, so I wasn't sure if it was me or what. I have been making my first cut and then turning 90 degrees. I'll try turning 180 and see what happens. I have been checking with a level and a square, just been having a problem keeping the log clamped where I want it. Good points on the blade too, as I have already dulled one on a log stop and broke another when my log was not clamped well enough. Good thing I got plenty when I bought the mill.

LeeB

Get a couple of short peices of 3/4" angle iron and weld a piece of 1/2" rod about 2 - 3" long to the inside of the angle at 90* and leaving a flat face looking out. Drill a couple of screw holes in these. Place them in your cant stops and then attach a board so you have a fence to clamp to instead of the adjustable stops. You'll find all kinds of uses for this fence such as being able to clamp crooked or bowed logs for natural edge work. I am assuming thet the cant stopps are still made from 3/4" square tubing like they were on the 1200. If not you cound put a screw hole through the angle and into a couple of the bunks. Through the cant stops was quick to put on and off. I guess you could also clamp it on if you didn't want to drill the bunks.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Kevin

One problem I had was with the dogs.
I checked them with a square against the bed and they were perfect.
The problem was when pressure was put against the log from the clamps the dogs would go out of square but I didn't know it at the time and it took awhile to catch on what was happening..
So now I check them and make sure there isn't any play in them.

taschmidretired

Howdy
I made the log dogging system on TA Schmid mills so they would hold down to 2 inch round and 1 inch square. I did it because I had a lot of customers wanting to utilize small logs.  My squaring pin (log stop) had the standard slope face for turning against (for large logs) with a prick on the opposite side that doubled as a stop when the pin was completely lowerd for 1 inch sawing. When someone needed to saw exceptionally small logs, you would pull the squaring pin completly out and reverse it. So instead of the the slope side facing the log, the prick point(located at the highest point on the squaring pin) is facing the log. The movable dog pricks the otherside  and is also adjustable down to 1 inch. I started in the mill bussiness by sawing small (and large) Juniper out west and sawed and changed and sawed and changed until I got the needed results. I don't know if this information will set off a light bulb or just confuse you. I have learned it can be hard to convey some ideas with words.  Good Luck   Adios T A
"Until I had turned Thirty Five, the longest I had ever stayed in one place was my Mother's womb."

"Beware of the man that shoots his arrow first, and then paints a bulls eye around it after."

Tom

Thank you, T.A., and welcome to the Forestry Forum.   Don't say senile to loud, I here it's contagious.  :D

ladylake

I mounted 2  1-1/2" ID square tubing on the frame , when saw small logs I put in 2  1-1/2  oak pieces around 1 foot long. Works great for small logs, sawing stickers etc as you can saw right through the square blocks.    Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

fishpharmer

T.A. welcome to forestry forum.  Good to have someone with your experience on board to teach folks like me that don't have much.  I look forward to your posts. 8) 8)
Built my own band mill with the help of Forestry Forum. 
Lucas 618 with 50" slabber
WoodmizerLT-40 Super Hydraulic
Deere 5065E mfwd w/553 loader

The reason a lot of people do not recognize opportunity is because it usually goes around wearing overalls looking like hard work. --Tom A. Edison

thecfarm

taschmidretired,welcome to the forum.First post and he's helping all ready.  8) You will fit right in.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

jwoods

Dirtdobber,

Could you make a wooden trough and lay it on top of the mill bed, making sure it was 90 deg./square and dog the logs down in it somehow?

-I've got one of taschmidretired's mills...and his system works ;)

Magicman

TA,  Welcome to The Forestry Forum.  Sharing knowledge is beneficial to us all.   Keep it coming.... 8)
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

ForestMan

I like the parallel sides idea.  You can lay the log flat after one cut, then make a parallel cut, then make sure you cut to 90 degrees on the next cut and you should be good for that last cut.
There is nothing like the natural beauty of wood.

taschmidretired

  Thank You Gentlemen!  Thanks for the welcome. Now I should probably retire from this forum while I'm batting near  100%. !!!
                 Thanks again.  T A
"Until I had turned Thirty Five, the longest I had ever stayed in one place was my Mother's womb."

"Beware of the man that shoots his arrow first, and then paints a bulls eye around it after."

Magicman

You've got it.  Especially with small stuff, that's the way to handle it.  You then have the side supports and the log clamp helping to square the cant.

Put a square on that 3rd cut.  If it doesn't pass, adjust and re-cut it before making that 4th and final cut.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

coastlogger

Hey TAschmidt I had acouple of those gismos  come with my mill. A knockoff I think.I hardly ever cut any tiny stuff so I never did figure out what they were for. Long since lost buried loaded out or perhaps they spontaneously combusted.Actually I get along best with square top back stakes. The darn angle top ones always quit holding on the last board and if I turn them around so high side is toward log then my blade saver guard will not make contact and i (could) nail the blade.
clgr

Dirtdobber

Thanks Guys, for all the input. After reading these suggestions and looking at my mill today, I think you all have give me an idea that I will be able to use. Thanks.

taschmidretired

Yeah Coastlogger
They probably were knock offs, since it sounds like they did not provide a stationary cant prick on the stationary side which eliminates the need of the squaring pin at that point. But like you said, you don't play around with those little ones anyway.  What is the mill you are running in your pic's ? 
"Until I had turned Thirty Five, the longest I had ever stayed in one place was my Mother's womb."

"Beware of the man that shoots his arrow first, and then paints a bulls eye around it after."

coastlogger

taschmid  my mill is an FGM made in B.C. I dont think they made too many. 32" throat width max height of blade 24", height of log/slab that will pass thru is 40"
A couple of pics of a log that did not need your invention.
cheers
clgr






clgr

taschmidretired

Nice setup Amigo. I  had to satisfy a lot of customers with as much versalility as possible. From the smallest raw material (2")  to the largest (over 36") diameters X 16" to 60 ft. in length and be able to do it all on one mill. The most challenging thing was to make small log sawing as productive as possible. Thanks for the pics.   







"Until I had turned Thirty Five, the longest I had ever stayed in one place was my Mother's womb."

"Beware of the man that shoots his arrow first, and then paints a bulls eye around it after."

bandmiller2

For those who don't know TA Schmid made on of the best manual bandmills I've seen rugged with many inovations he was not afrade to think outside the box.TA what are you doing with yourself now?? FranK C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

taschmidretired

Howdy Frank
    what I should be dong is taking typing  lessons.  By the time I get a post out everybody has moved on or fell asleep!
Thanks for that compliment. They are still being made.  They are still spending more on steel than on advertising, and every once in awhile I get my little support check from it . I have been trying to dig up some old pics of AC powered mills. A 20hp is a pretty  common size on resaws. Those motors can get pretty heavy.   
"Until I had turned Thirty Five, the longest I had ever stayed in one place was my Mother's womb."

"Beware of the man that shoots his arrow first, and then paints a bulls eye around it after."

bandmiller2

TA,glad your still at it,we get older its important to keep going just throttle back a little.Weight on my homemade bandmill is no problem.My bandhead uses 3/8" wire cable reeved to a hydraulic cylinder so as to give me 2" head travel for 1" cylinder travel,I could pick up a 371 detroit if I needed to.Real three phase power is a spoiler if you run an electric mill you don't want to go back. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

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