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Another Mobile Dimension question

Started by oakiemac, October 10, 2004, 06:49:39 AM

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oakiemac

Hi all,

After reading through the previous posting on MD questions, I thought of a few problems that I have been having.
I have just started working with a big production mill and pallet plant. They have a Meadows headrig and a baker resaw. They sell grade lumber and make cants from the lower quality wood for the resaw to saw into pallet lumber. Well they have a huge (many Mbdft) of old logs that they want me to cut into cants. Some 3 1/2 by whatever and some into 5 1/2X 5 1/2 for landscape timbers.
Anyways to cut the larger cants economically I ordered the larger bottom edger blade so I can now cut a 12"X8" cant in a single pass. I haven't recieved the blade yet and was wondering if any other MD owner was using one? How do you like it? I'm a little nervous since I won't be able to use the top edger blade now and I kind of like using it. Will this work good for cutting the 5 X 5 cants that they want?
After cutting a few smaller cants the owner came over to watch. He is an old cadger who "has 3 generations of sawmiller owners in his family and has been doing this for 65 years" and he ain't never seen anything like the MD before. Well he didn't like the size of the bottom slab- it was way too thick. Before I knew it he was telling me to take both edger blades off and cut off the log dogs on the bunks and add this and that. This was all stuff that I am not prepared to do as I kind of like the mill the way it is. But I did get looking at my setup and I found when the endstands are all the way lowered that the shoe on my carriage was about 1 1/2 off of the block of wood that is bolted to the frame. I suppose this block is to keep you from lowering the blade too far and cutting off your log dogs. I adjusted the endstands so that the shoe now rests on the block and this helped quite a bit, but I'm still a good  inche or so for the bottom of the edger blade to the top of the log dog. I would think that only about a 1/4" would be necessary. Has anyone made that block smaller so that they could lower their blade down a little more? This would further reduce the size of the bottom slab or is there a reason it is at this height that I'm missing? It has always seemed to me to be one problem with the mill is that the bottom slab is too thick.

BTW, Dang I liked your idea on building a portable bunk. I'm gonna build one to.

Oakie
Mobile Demension sawmill, Bobcat 873 loader, 3 dry kilns and a long "to do" list.

Frank_Pender

Oakie, I have thought of doing the very same type of things myself.   However, I have come to the conclusion, after some 15 years, that the slab that is left for me 90% of the time is worth nothing more than lumber. I have been able to gage pretty well to not leave much more than necesssary most of the time and use what is left for firewood for my kiln and home Taylor stoves.  If the slab is too thick I simply turn the slab on edge and remove another board or three.  

   As to the larger edger blade, I have found that I simple take the top of the log off first with this blade before I saw any boards.   I does cause some extra passes before making the thicker cant, but you make up for the passes in the fact you are making the thicker board.  
Frank Pender

DanG

Oakie, what are your bunks made of?  Mine are 4x6 wood beams, and I can get down to within 1/4 inch of the dogs. I think there are several versions of the trailer out there, so your's may be different from mine.

Sometimes, I flip that bottom slab over and put some shims under it, then make a 8/4 out of it. I usually edge that on the table saw, since I don't have a good way to square it up when I stand it on edge on the mill.

Most logs are not perfectly straight, so there usually isn't much of a usable slab if I've positioned it properly to start with.
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

Paul_H

Oakie,
I think that you will be happy with the larger edger.My mill is a 127,so with the big edger I can only take a 7x12 in one pass but you will have no problem with the 5x5 cants.I have only run the smaller edgers once since buying the mill.

My edger is within a 1/4" of the dogs,the same as DanG's.We set that by shimming up the bunks,which are bolted to 4" steel tubing welded to the frame.

When I set a log on the mill,I always put a 1" shim under the small end of the log to help level things,so the slab is noticably tapered.Right now I'm sawing up Birch logs and the slab pile doesn't amount to much.It seems that the only time the bottom slab is thick,is when the log is knarly and the slab tends to be lowgrade.

I'm sawing 1x 41/2 flooring and have been keeping track of the log sizes and volume produced from each log.When I get home,I check the volume against the "Log Volume" calculator on the left hand side of the screen.So far I have been 5% avg over, on the international rule.(I don't count anything under 1x3x 8' )

Science isn't meant to be trusted it's to be tested

Steve

Oakie

I have used the big edger exclusively for the past 10 years. It is the very best for getting the best grade out of your logs.
Use the side shift of the mill often. I also either block the small end of the log up or disconnect the endstands to align the track up with the taper of the log..

I have removed the welded on dogs and ground down the slider dogs that you can get from Mobile D.
I keep a bed of sawdust thick around the dogs and cand usually mill 24" log or bigger without having to clamp it down. I use lots of wood blocks and wedges and go slow on the last pass or two.

Also this makes a prefect setup for quatersawing if you ever get the need.

I have a 9" width capacity and commonly make 8 by 9" cants and bigger.

The lead on both blades is more critical with cants than boards. I use wood wedges in the cut to relieve timber bind on the blades.

I love the big blade setup. The only drawback I can see is slightly less accurate dimensions with out the top edger to trim exact if that's what you need.

Steve



Steve
Hawaiian Hardwoods Direct
www.curlykoa.com

oakiemac

Thanks for the replys. You all have given me some really good ideas.
I think that this cant making deal might work out pretty well. It's not glamorous but it might be profitable.
Mobile Demension sawmill, Bobcat 873 loader, 3 dry kilns and a long "to do" list.

Frank_Pender

Like I have indicated in some other threads, they are in the process of modifying so that the larger edger blades are going to be a permanent item for a particular model of mill.  I am very seriously considering selling the two mills I have and ordering one of the new heavier duty track and frame mills.  I must be out of my mind, thinking of getting a new mill as I just purchased a new hydraulic (used) mill about a year ago.   :-/

    What I have been thinking of doing is sell just the track and carrage of one of the hydraulic mills and place the new one on the frame and trailer for replacement.  That way I keep the hydraulics set up as well as the trailer.   ;D
Frank Pender

Paul_H

I figured this thread needed pictures.



A 22" dia x 10' long Birch.



A closeup of the dogs



First cut





Cutting the top half of the pith out for a sticker



Last board



Leftover slab.It probably had another board in it if I flipped it but I was on a mission



I like the colour variation,from cream coloured sapwood to Chocolate brown heartwood.



The 10' pile stickered as I go.Still need to work on lining up the stickers but the mill keeps me hopping.


Science isn't meant to be trusted it's to be tested

Norm

Thanks for the pictures Paul, I slab at least that heavy unless I'm doing something real valuable like cherry or walnut. Even then those boards tend to move as they are such new wood in the log. I've done exhaustive research and have reached the conclusion that perfect sticker placement is detrimental to proper drying. That's why mine never line up. :D

Oakie I'll be willing to bet that the head rig at that place is slabbing just as heavy as what your leaving when cutting with your MD.

oakiemac

Norm,
You are absolutely right. He is just taking 4 slabs off that are thin and I have one bottom slab that is heavier.
I am going to tweak my mill some to minimize this further.

Paul H. thanks for the pictures. It looks like your end stands sit on the ground and not a trailer? Mine is mounted up on a trailer.
Mobile Demension sawmill, Bobcat 873 loader, 3 dry kilns and a long "to do" list.

karl

I adjusted my stop bolts to clear the fixed dogs by a quarter inch or so only to find that the spring on one clamp was kinked enough so that I "polished" it  ::)
I usually shim up the small end also. and have shimmed both ends of some "fence posts" a guy brought me.
Only used the 19" blade one time so far- definately want to have some wedges handy to keep it from pinching and heating. I missed the top edger too. Takes a bit of rethinking and it feels like your being less productive til you add up the footage.
Some of our heavy slabs I have turned on edge and edged using a deep cut so the bearing keeps it upright and used the stock for "logcabin siding" for small sheds.
Love those MD's ;D
"I ask for wisdom and strength, Not to be superior to my brothers, but to be able to fight my greatest enemy, myself"  - from Ojibwa Prayer.

Paul_H

Norm,
I have a theory about my stickering too.I think I get them perfect and then at night after I go home,the Bears come out and rub against the stack.Them Bears can be a real Bear sometimes ;D
I have been milling all this long weekend(CDN Thanksgiving) but I quit at 2:00 this afternoon and had a nap,just like Noble did.It does wonders!

Oakie,
I went back out to take a couple more pics for you.The endstands weren't very visible in the other pics.



The whole mill is mounted to an old housetrailer frame but there are no wheels on it so it sits on blocks



This mill was built in 1979 and has the belt assy to drive the carriage.The belt went haywire today and I wanted to finish so I tried a duct tape fix.It is working well so I think I'll leave it for awhile ::)



I still haven't built a roof over the mill,so I picked up these custom engine covers(available at any grocery store)



It is a pull start and the engine was getting cranky.It was taking a dozen or more pulls to start.I worked on the carb because a mechanic tuned up the mag and set the timing a few months ago but it still wasn't right.Finally yesterday I opened up the points a bit and it was like night and day.This morning it started first pull!

Karl,I agree with you ;D

If it was a horse,I'd brush it down and give it Oats.

A good nap, good running mill and the smell of Thanksgiving dinner cooking.I'm having a good day 8)

Science isn't meant to be trusted it's to be tested

oakiemac

Paul H, I had to laugh when I saw your duct tape. Where would civilized man be without it? :D
I had to duct tape my lumber return today when the DanG thing broke at the cable.
Thanks for the pictures!
BTW when are you gonna have a pig roast in BC? I'm just dying for an excuse to go out there. I was on Vancouver Island once and thought it was about the most beautiful place I have ever seen
Mobile Demension sawmill, Bobcat 873 loader, 3 dry kilns and a long "to do" list.

Paul_H

Oakie,
At first I went rooting through the riggin box for the Black electicians tape but I found the last couple of wraps of the duct tape floating around the bottom of the box.It sure is tough stuff.I have a spare belt but it looks like good half hour to change,so I'm pretending that I'll be more willing to do it it another day.

I live 2 1/2 hours North of Vancouver(on the mainland),so if you ever find yourself heading out this way,give me a shout.

Vancouver Island is a pretty spot.Did you visit the Logging Museum in Duncan?
Science isn't meant to be trusted it's to be tested

karl

Say Paul, first off I thought you had posted pics of my mill, then I realized yours has more paint and someone stole your battery ;)
it looks like your beam has sheet metal on the side- to keep edger sawdust from blowing around???
I made an interim roof for the mill out of a 3' scrap of metal roofing and a couple of D shaped 1x10 scraps- covers the belts, carb and exhausts. Its light enought to lift easily and heavy enough to not blow off, and I don't have to cool the machine down first. Trouble is- it's too convenient, prob'ly never get a real roof. ::) Need an engine job first anyway. Could have afforded it sooner if'n I hadn't wasted all that money on new belts :D ;)
"I ask for wisdom and strength, Not to be superior to my brothers, but to be able to fight my greatest enemy, myself"  - from Ojibwa Prayer.

Paul_H

Hey Karl,
I think some pictures of your setup are in order ;)
It sounds like yours is an oldtimer like mine.The old guy that owned it before me was fussy,kept it under cover and took good care of it.He comes by occasionally to visit me and the MD.
Science isn't meant to be trusted it's to be tested

sawmill_john

Howdy guys, I'm going to give out your guys phone numbers when I get those trouble shooting calls, you hit it right on the nose keep up the good work. I suggest setting the clearance at about 3/8" above the top of the log holder dog, you can also block up the log for less slab.
later guys!  john

karl

Ok Paul, you asked for it- we'll see if this fuzzy ole  brain can deliver;

'82 MD sawdust maker- 20 and 30' cut, elec start and lift.Quite fashionable in "Quonset Hut Hat" :D


See if this works- if it does, I'll post pictures of all my toys, grandkids,neighbors cat, vacation slides...... ;)
"I ask for wisdom and strength, Not to be superior to my brothers, but to be able to fight my greatest enemy, myself"  - from Ojibwa Prayer.

Norm

Way to go Karl, that's some pretty scenery in the background there. :)

Those MD's are sure a cool piece of equipment.

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