Tales of a tornado, a future shed and lots of borrowed equipment

cogger · November 05, 2009, 11:59:48 PM

So, do you need help making shingles?!

jason.weir · November 09, 2009, 08:32:15 AM

Quote from: cogger on November 05, 2009, 11:59:48 PM
So, do you need help making shingles?!

Sure Paul anytime... I ran the mill at Deerfield Fair off an old Farmall with a 20' flat belt - the mill never ran so good - now I'm looking for replacement power and a long belt..

-J

cogger · November 13, 2009, 09:15:41 PM

The longer the belt, the better. I am running a 7 x 50' belt on mine. I took mine out in public for the first time at an event we have in late September. I was pretty happy with it. I sawed Atlantic white cedar. I ran it with my 37 John Deere A, which does a great job...sounds cool too! I tried a Farmall H, but it didn't have the power the A did. I will admit that those 4 cylinder engines are smoother than the 2 cylinders. I will attempt to post a video on Youtube later. I tried to post pictures here, but got lost!

bandmiller2 · November 14, 2009, 06:46:49 AM

Cogger,good to hear your shingle mill is up and running.What RPM is your blade hammered for.?I ran mine with a Farmall C with a recent overhaul barely enough would pull down on a large chunk.My late JD B had no problem a little over an idle speed. Frank C.

bandmiller2 · November 14, 2009, 07:01:11 AM

Jason,I have a legnth of the newer Storz fire hose yellow, flat, ruberized fabric don't know why it wouldn't make dandy power belting.It takes a clipper laceing well.I have used the older fabric fire hose with great satisfaction on a buzz saw.Frank C.

cogger · November 14, 2009, 02:01:18 PM

Frank, I have to admit I have no idea what the blade is hammered for nor how to find out! I know it seems to do a nice job running the arbor at about 1100 rpm.

jason.weir · November 14, 2009, 04:44:55 PM

I'm in the same boat - have no idea what it was hammered for - considering the last time it could have been hammered was at least 25 years ago. Mine as well seems to run its best right around 1100.. Maybe someday I'll take it over to Lyndonville and have Bruce D. do his magic - at least then I'll know.

Frank - I forgot about the fire hose option, I'll have to talk to the local volunteer boys and see what they've got lying around. Plus I'm still looking for another powerplant - I got my eyes on an old Continental now - its a little big but would do the trick...

Paul - great that you got yours out in public - they always draw a crowd... Don't let that other blade slip through your fingers - never mind the other stuff..

-J

cogger · November 14, 2009, 04:56:56 PM

How the heck do you post pictures here? I tried to find a tutorial on the site, but had no luck.
Thanks
Paul

cogger · November 14, 2009, 09:14:01 PM

Let's see if this works!

cogger · November 14, 2009, 09:20:35 PM

OK, here is a picture of my set up with the 50' belt.

jason.weir · November 14, 2009, 09:26:48 PM

Looks good... How did it saw the cedar?

-J

cogger · November 14, 2009, 11:44:53 PM

Jason, it sawed the cedar just fine. However, because the cedar is considerably softer than white pine I had been sawing, the feed roll teeth sunk into the wood more than they did in the pine. This caused some uneven feeding. My feed roll teeth are pretty worn, but someone made me new ones and that should fix the problem.

bandmiller2 · November 15, 2009, 06:40:55 AM

Your speed is right in the ball park,tension is not as critical as a headsaw collar pretty much has the saw under control.I had mine hammered because it went through rework,started its life as a solid tooth headsaw.The old guy I bought the shingle mill from sent it down south somewhere.It was cut back to 40" and blanchard ground for the taper,I drilled countersunk and screwed it to the collar.The collar was a little wavy had a local machine shop true it on a brake disc lathe.Frank C.

cogger · November 15, 2009, 07:37:02 AM

Frank, how difficult is it to drill and countersink the blade? I have a real nice 36" blade. It started life as a 40" blade and goes on a different hub. The smaller ring of holes line up perfectly, but the outer set just about misses the hub. I'd love to be able to either use this blade by drilling it for my hub or find a hub off a 40" machine. Thanks, Paul

bandmiller2 · November 16, 2009, 06:03:27 AM

Paul,mounted the blade about 30 yrs. ago if I recall it was not easy to drill and countersink.I used a milling machine for the deep throat.Most important is slow speed and good pressure on the drill with cutting oil.A big slow drill press or milling machine would be best along with carbide tools.They make good grade allen head screws that work well because the outer part of the collar is thin and sometimes you have to grind some of the screw head down.Frank C.