iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Kiln Build

Started by DWyatt, August 30, 2023, 08:57:05 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

DWyatt

Made some more progress this afternoon. What a beautiful weekend we had! Got the rest of the sheathing on and got about half of the subfacia boards on. 

I was even lucky enough to have my favorite helper for about an hour. Evan got a new tool set for his 3rd birthday yesterday and he was determined to use it! 



 



 



 

K-Guy

I wouldn't use R-30 insulation, your kiln will overheat in the summer. No more than R-26.
Nyle Service Dept.
A common mistake people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.
- D. Adams

DWyatt

@K-Guy Isn't that the purpose of the powered and passive vents? If the kiln chamber heats up too much, the power vent fires up and exhausts? ???

K-Guy


If your kiln is too well insulated the vent will vent too much and you control of the drying. Ideally, when drying hardwoods, you would never vent as then the kiln controls the drying completely. For softwoods it doesn't matter, that is why many people don't dry oak in the summer as it is too hard to control the drying and temperature.
Nyle Service Dept.
A common mistake people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.
- D. Adams

DWyatt

Progress again! Saturday morning I picked up all my metal trim pieces and metal for the roof. I finished building out the overhangs Saturday afternoon. Sunday Dad and I got all of the metal on the roof and I got most everything wrapped in house wrap. I have to get all of the trims up this week so I can get measured for metal and have it here over the Thanksgiving weekend. 



 

Do you know how far away you have to stand to see the metal on a 2:12 roof so I can prove that I made progress? About 50' :D



 

DWyatt

I made good progress over the last week, but not anything that is going to show well in pictures. I finished the house wrap on the end walls, put in some misc blocking between the trusses, and installed the treated door jambs. I also got all of the F&J trim installed so I could get measured for metal. Metal should be showing up today or tomorrow so hopefully I can get it all installed over the long weekend. Yesterday I got all the lumber and hinges to build the doors. 

This getting dark at 5:30 PM means I go to work in the dark and come home in the dark. Getting things put together with a work light and headlamp makes things take so much longer. Luckily I'll be able to build the doors in the shop then lift them into place. 

teakwood

it was after i had erected the structure of the kiln and started getting into details visible progress slowed down considerably and i told myself, dang is it alot of work to finish a kiln built. i think i did mine in 3 full work weeks  
National Stihl Timbersports Champion Costa Rica 2018

DWyatt

I am to the point now that if I had a full week to work on things, it would be done. I am hoping to get a lot done over the long Thanksgiving weekend. 

Had the initial filling of a new water tower contract that I'm running the last two days, then a late preconstruction meeting today. Going to be knocking on 40 billable hrs in my three day work week. Needless to say, not much has been done the last 2 nights. 

DWyatt

Big progress made this weekend. Between Thanksgiving gatherings and spending time with the family, I got quite a bit done. I was short on my soffit order so I wasn't able to finish it and I was shorted the two long pieces of metal for the front of the kiln. My primary work hours this weekend were from 6am to 9am while everyone was still asleep. I should get it all finished up next weekend. 

When I have another project like this, I'll be investing in a suspension tool belt. Working off a ladder for all the soffit and facia with a toolbelt hanging on, my hips are shot! 64 trips just to do the soffit.  :o



 



 




barbender

It looks great!👍👍
Too many irons in the fire

Peter Drouin

A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

DWyatt

It was a slow weekend, partly because I forgot to order the material and partly because we had a lot of stuff scheduled. I did get the rest of the trim put around the big door and the metal put on the front (minus the one piece that I am missing). The final piece of metal and remainder soffit is supposed to be in today which will mean I can put it on this weekend. Hopefully I can get the doors built this week and ready to hang next weekend. 



 

doc henderson

It looks very well done.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

DWyatt

Forgot to post an update after the weekend. I've been absolutely slammed at the day job with several late meetings so progress has been slow. Over the weekend I did get the big doors built. They're probably over built, it's my style, but the 5 ea 10" strap hinges should hold things well. Planning to get them mounted this coming weekend.



 

doc henderson

I assume the sagging out of square will be mitigates with sheathing and or some diagonal braces, cable or otherwise?
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

DWyatt

Yes. The exterior will have metal, not technically bracing,  but there will be 6 rows of screws, so that's something. The interior will have sheathing. I bought 1/2" treated ply for the interior, but I am probably going to elect to change to a 1/4" ply and nail at 6" centers. After carrying the 1/2" treated ply, I can't convince myself that the extra thickness will provide more bracing than the weight will hinder. Dang that plywood was heavy.

As they are currently, without any bracing, I am able to stand them up on a corner and bounce them. When I lay it back down it's still perfectly square. Not proper testing procedures, but it's my sledgehammer test  :D

doc henderson

I think that is what 90% of us would do too.  so that is great, but after a few years of hot and cold, and with humidity blah blah blah.  could glue and screw your plywood with TB3 or construction adhesive.  that means adherent every inch of the frame.  I think that will brace it well.  you could incorporate a diagonal cable with a turn buckle for some tension and adjustment over time.  from the top hinge area to the opposite corner at the bottom where the doors meet.  I assume the metal you speak of on the outside is the siding.  I agree that would be less likely to keep the doors from sagging.  great start so far. 
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

DWyatt

Doc, I do like the glue idea and will probably do that. With the frame being beefy, I could easily install a cable on the interior face of the door to be adjusted as needed. Since I have the block wall and footer at the door opening, my intention is to install a small block where the two doors meet. That would keep tension off the hinges when they are closed, which is 99% of the time.

teakwood

That's what i did! but now they are hard to close sometimes  :D
National Stihl Timbersports Champion Costa Rica 2018

DWyatt

@teakwood Do you have some kind of plywood on the inside to prevent sag?

teakwood

Nope, lumber frame then filled out with styrofoam panels 1" and then tyg boards nailed to it inside and outside. All this is way sufficiently to prevent sagging

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=121021.40
Reply #48
National Stihl Timbersports Champion Costa Rica 2018

Oth

My doors have 1/2" T-111 on the outside and 1/4" plywood on the inside. No diagonal bracing, no glue. Haven't moved at all. Not sure how big yours are, they do look a bit larger though. I wouldn't bother with the glue though, most construction adhesive dries pretty *DanG hard and with the amount of expansion and contraction in the materials from heating and cooling down I'd bet the glue joint would fail sooner than later. Cable with a turnbuckle is a good idea but I bet ya never adjust it if it's got proper sheet good sheathing on each side.

doc henderson

If I were going to use boards, I would consider installing on a diagonal.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Sod saw

.


Doc has two good ideas for the door.

Plywood is a great idea instead of boards.  I used thin Luan plywood that is used for under vinyl flooring.   Cheap, light weight, and stiff with proper frame.

Using high strength construction adhesive (from a tube) works well to bond the plywood to frame but be sure to use deck screws as they are coated for outdoor weather and we all know how the inside of a kiln gets.  Hot and humid.

When installing foam board into the doors and walls, spray foam the edges of all foam boards to seal to the studs and framework.   At 150 degrees (F) a lot of heat is lost thru the smallest space.

Nice looking structure.


.

LT 40 hyd.          Solar Kiln.          Misc necessary toys.
.
It's extremely easy to make things complicated, but very difficult to keep things simple.
.

DWyatt

It's been awhile since I updated you all on the kiln. So I've got a big photo dump to do. Doors are mounted and functioning, the entire kiln is insulated (except the floor), and I'm going to be starting the interior plywood this week!



 



 



 



 



 



 

Thank You Sponsors!