Gentlemen,
My 10-yr-old daughter has a science fair coming up this thursday, and she told the teacher that I could get her some good cross-section cuts to examine "tree-rings"...well, it been a long time since I have pinched the bar, but this time I really blew it. :o :o :o
A neighbor bull-dozed a huge oak so I was cutting one of the large scaffolding branches...I cut a pie piece out of the bottom, then make 3-4 different cuts on the top for contration, but it just wasn't enough. I had to leave the 18" bar/chain there....even if I can get the bar out next week, I think it is too far gone...have had the same bar on the 029 for 10+ yrs now, so I am going to get another one mid-week.
What do Stihl 18" bars go for these days? I will try to salvage the old one if I can, but I think the sprocket on the end is probably toast as well as there is probably no more groove from the end to about 1/3 the way up. Anyone that has also toasted a bar before, pls let me know so I won't feel like I own the trophy all by myself. :(
Regards,
tstex
Bars are disposable wear items. 10+ years on one bar is too long IMO and has probably negatively affected chain wear. I suggest you take a look at the sprocket on the saw also, it's probably toast as well.
Check with our sponsor Bailey's for a bar. They will fit your saw and depends on how soon you can get to a Stihl dealer, may get it faster.
Those trees/logs have a way of grabbing hold of a bar real fast. Be careful, and good luck.
May be able to keep the old bar for a spare (in case this ever happens again). ;D
A cross-section makes a great science fair project, to talk about cell structure, seasons, fast/slow growth, make-up of a ring, rain/drought years, historical events when the tree was a certain size, drying that causes the radial splits, heartwood/sapwood, bark, growing cambium layer making new cells, etc., etc.
We get so used to power tools that we forget about hand tools. When bucking stressed logs/limbs, there is one tool that can get you out of a lot of trouble and that is an Axe. A sharp axe, used discriminately, will remove enough wood to get the most bound bar out.
A wedge and a sledge or maul will do the same thing.
Age doesn't wear out a bar, use wears out a bar. In 10 years you might have worn out your sprockets and bar or you might not. It is very probable that the drive sprocket is worn. The idle sprocket may be worn too. But, I've got a spare bar for my Husky 61 that hasn't got an hour of use on it. It's about 20 years old and I'll bet it is still in good shape. :D
If you cut a wedge in the bottom and relief kerfs in the top of the limb and still got stuck, It sounds like the tree was resting on the limb and you should have been severing it from below and putting the wedge in the top. It's kind of hard to picture how you entered the limb and which way it tried to close, but that should be a determination before you take an axe to it. You don't want the log to roll over onto you when you release the limb.
Using handtools can give you the time to see how things are moving.
I know you probably know all of this, but I just had to say it anyway. :)
You forgot the other handy tool Tom, a dull axe. :D Well, when that's all you've got. ;) The axe I carry to drive wedges is not usually very sharp at all, but it'll still chop out a saw in an emergency.
tstex - print this for her, I think it's from an Apple tree. :D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21052/2635/atree.jpg)
You guys make good points...especially Tom on usage. Even though my c-saw is a 1999, I can assure you the hrs are not commensurate with the type of hrs you guys log annually. I might go 3-4 months without using my saw, then 2-3 weekends in a row. However, your point is both taken and appreciated.
I do you an axe to split my wood, and an old ax-head as a wedge that i drive with my sledge hammer to split some really old and aged oak...great tool.
I will go back next week and give it another try...it is too wet now, but if it was dryer, I could use my front end loader with a chain to lift the branch a bit to take off the pressure...however, might give my hydraulics a run for the money...the trunk had at least a 4.5 - 5ft diameter and I was cutting the first "Y" scaffolding branches...I cannot even believe they bull-dozed such a great tree...
Thank you guys,
tstex
Quote from: Stutz on January 31, 2010, 10:09:25 PM
tstex - print this for her, I think it's from an Apple tree. :D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21052/2635/atree.jpg)
That's great...you made that look pretty *DanG reall - nice job !!! If I could bring something like that, she would get some great extra credit and I might even get a date with her teacher :D ;D :D ;D However, I will have to send my wife out to go get me an extra chain or too...make that 2 18" stihl chains. :D ;D
Tstex
I only scanned it - thought it was cool myself.
Stutz,
W :Dw! Hope you don't mind, I'm printing it out also.
That's a great tree ring specimen! My students will
enjoy & marvel this photo too. Thanks! 8)
Mrs. BowSaw
That sure does look like an apple in the center of that picture, doesn't it?
Well the only ones that never stuck a saw are those that never cut much wood .Welcome to the club . :D
You can retrieve the bar by some method .Now the wood .
If you would like to preserve it ,slobber it up with anchorseal or some other material made to stop splits .It might take a couple of years to dry but once it does it should last for years unsplit or with less splits than untreated .
Well, I feel a bit better now that I know I do not have a the sole membership to the "get your bar stuck in the tree club" 8)
My Stihl dealer said a new 18" bar for my 029 will run for $45.00...I guess that's not too bad.
Have a good day gentlemen,
tstex
sounds to me liek a good reason to buy another saw to cut yours out haha. and yea i jsut got pniched today tree set back to i sawed the one side of the hinge off to walk it around. moved on me and pinched it good. took the powerhead off took the notch and beat the bar around to pry itself out. put my belt thru the chian wedged the trees over stratend the chain and went back to work ;D. i dont reccomend sawin the hinge off if your not at a professional level ::) not a good idea unless u kno what your doin
check the site sponsors like baileys
http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?SKW=BCC%20stihl&catID=691
Definitely call Baileys. I just bought an 18" bar and 2 chains from them for a friend and it cost him $55CAD after shipping, duties and 13% sales tax. At the local Stihl dealer they want $48 plus tax for just the bar, and $35 each for chains :o :o
Nick
Don,t feel alone,,, I,ve toasted a few bars myself. Shop around for a new bar. A new Stihl bar will run about $45.00. Then your good for another 10 years.
Quote from: des170stihl on February 02, 2010, 05:39:12 PM
Don,t feel alone,,, I,ve toasted a few bars myself. Shop around for a new bar. A new Stihl bar will run about $45.00. Then your good for another 10 years.
How much you cuttin?? :) TT
My chainsaw work has peaks and valleys. but I mainly cut in the winter when it is much cooler. I would say on the average of 4-8hrs per month at the very, very most. When a storm hits and some micrpo-bursts tear up some trees, or lightening, then i get more active...both are rarities, thank God.
What type of trees you cut on up there in Oregon?? That sure is a nice part of the country!
tstex
Alot of douglas fir, some hemlock, spruce, alder and maple also. :) TT