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Woodmizer BMS250 Tips and Tricks

Started by Unclefish, June 28, 2020, 05:57:56 PM

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Unclefish

Would be nice if some of our experienced users can share there knowledge with some of less experienced users that still like to saw and do some manual labor.
Post up all questions here. You might think its stupid but you might not be the only one in the boat. 

Unclefish

I will be first heres my extra parts pile.
Anyone know where they go.



 

SawyerTed

FWIW, I have the same parts pile.

I added a plastic shield/blade wiper on the blade exit.  It keeps the machine from spitting little drops of oil out the side. 

It is a plastic coffee can lid with a slot cut in it. Held in place with a magnet. 

 
Woodmizer LT50, WM BMS 250, WM BMT 250, Kubota MX5100, IH McCormick Farmall 140, Husqvarna 372XP, Husqvarna 455 Rancher

Unclefish

If you light face grind the first time around will it eventually more face grind since where the blade pusher hits will be less so it should . So is it important to try get it perfect so it only goes 1 time around on touch up grind. Also how do you check that blade tip is perfectly flat. Use a magnifying glass cause my eyes aren't that good.
Thanks Unclefish 

terrifictimbersllc

Use red layout dye on every blade to make sure the whole profile is ground.

Also pay attention to the sound of a grind. If it sounds different something is different.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

SawyerTed

The amount of face grind won't change without adjusting the length of the pusher.  Face grind is determined by the length of the pusher relative to the opposite side of the the wheel. Now two light trips around will give a more complete grind if everything is adjusted right. 

I've not been sharpening long and haven't been too worried about flatness of the top of the tooth.  The wheel shape takes care of the top of the tooth. 

I do use a magnifier to look at the teeth and gullet.  
Woodmizer LT50, WM BMS 250, WM BMT 250, Kubota MX5100, IH McCormick Farmall 140, Husqvarna 372XP, Husqvarna 455 Rancher

Unclefish

First sharpening 10° .045 looking with magnifying glasses grind looks a little rough. Top of tips I can feel a like a sharp bur  that ok. Here are some pics



 

 

Unclefish


YellowHammer

It's important to look at the very corners of the teeth.  That where the chiseling action and fiber separation takes place when sawing, just as with a wood chisel.  The edge must be sharp, but the corners should be very sharp and fully formed.

Here are two pictures of the same band, after successive passes.  Big difference.  



 

This is not a fully sharpened tooth.  Slightly rounded corners, and not fully formed.


However, the photo below shows a fully sharpened tooth, with very sharp chisel corners, and ready to saw.



 

This was done with a drag sharpener, and my CBN wheel (BMS250) makes the teeth look even better.  
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Unclefish

I let this 1 go around 3 times seems to me like it does cleaner nicer job.



 

Southside

Magnet fell off once and I let one go for about two hours. She was sharp, gullet was a bit shallow, but sure was sharp.. 
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

Stephen1

Quote from: Southside on July 01, 2020, 06:14:17 PM
Magnet fell off once and I let one go for about two hours. She was sharp, gullet was a bit shallow, but sure was sharp..
No micro cracks in that blade..lol
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

terrifictimbersllc

That will just give face grind, when the blade isn't raised after each go round. 
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

YellowHammer

I had the same magnet issue, too, more than once, and the sharpener ran half a day. Oops. The teeth were stubs.  I swore it would never happen again, and sure enough, I did it again, about a week later. 

 
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

donbj

Quote from: Southside on July 01, 2020, 06:14:17 PM
Magnet fell off once and I let one go for about two hours. She was sharp, gullet was a bit shallow, but sure was sharp..
Started out a 1 1/2" blade, ended up 3/4" blade :D
I may be skinny but I'm a Husky guy

Woodmizer LT40HDG24. John Deere 5300 4WD with Loader/Forks. Husky 262xp. Jonsered 2065, Husky 65, Husky 44, Husky 181XP, Husky 2100CD, Husky 185CD

Southside

Pretty much.  Have to say it's a unique feeling when you shut off the sawmill, remove your hearing protection, and hear "shinnk, shinnk, shinnk" and wonder - "what on earth is that noi.... OH DANG".  I sure don't run gracefully, but I suspect I cleared more than a few hurdles worth of lumber stacks on my way over to the sharpener.   :o  Still have the band and a part of me wants to throw it on one day just to see what it  does.   ;D
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

terrifictimbersllc

While I love the BMS250, I wish they had a tooth counter, like the setter,  instead of the magnet method, simply so I didnt have to count to 17 before putting the magnet on and doing something else for a few minutes.

Tips.....
Make sure the blade is positioned in the plastic guides correctly.  Especially going between the wheel and the post on the last one.  If blade outside the last support, rather than between post and wheel, the post holds the magnet which never makes it to the sensor.

Check the mounting and adjustment of the sensor so it is within 1/16" of the magnet and at the right height so it is centered on the magnet.

Watch out for blades that might have a kink or deformity in them, that can lead to a portion being too far away from the sensor. If you have a blade that stops prematurely, this is one that might be deformed, the sensor is a metal detector and a blade that gets too close will stop it.  Not as bad as the magnet missing the sensor though. 

When you put the magnet on, have the painted side away from blade.

Best not to put a blade and leave for more than about 5 minutes.

Dont forget to count to 17 and put the magnet on :)  
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Unclefish

Quote from: SawyerTed on June 28, 2020, 06:55:13 PM
FWIW, I have the same parts pile.

I added a plastic shield/blade wiper on the blade exit.  It keeps the machine from spitting little drops of oil out the side.

It is a plastic coffee can lid with a slot cut in it. Held in place with a magnet.  


thanks for that tip I see what ya mean spits out

UncleMoustache

Just got my sharpener the other day.
Watched a few videos of how to operate it, and have a blade on there ready to go when I next have some time.

One question I have - the CBN wheels are designed to keep things very cool when sharpening.
Additionally, the wheels touch the teeth for only a fraction of a second.

So what's the purpose of the oil?  Normally it's for keeping things cool during the metal cutting process, but it seems to me that it's unnecessary in this situation.

(Yes, I'm still going to use it!)
Josh
-Echo CS-670, CS-620, CS-370, CS-355T, CSS-266
-Stihl MS661, MS200T
-Dolmar 550
-SuperSplit
-Woodmizer LT15 Wide

terrifictimbersllc

Probably keeps the wheel clean and makes it last many times longer. It also carries away all the filings, you will find out how much that is when you go to clean it out periodically. Those filings will make a dam around the magnets and eventually the pump will suck all the oil out of the inside that little dam if the filings arent removed.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Southside

It removes the metal shavings from the wheel and lubrication is always a good thing when using an abrasive.  A lot of have ditched the WM cutting oil and gone to a food grade mineral oil instead.  The sharpener makes a lot of oil mist.  I closed off the band inlet and outlet with brushes and have an air pump on the top to deal with the exhaust mist.  Using mineral oil you stay cleaner, the mist is reduced, the stink is gone, and it's cheaper too. 
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

bushhog920

Shine a light on top of the tooth and if you see a reflection it's not sharp. Works on anything chainsaws, knife, etc.

Stephen1

Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on January 16, 2022, 12:38:00 PM
Probably keeps the wheel clean and makes it last many times longer. It also carries away all the filings, you will find out how much that is when you go to clean it out periodically. Those filings will make a dam around the magnets and eventually the pump will suck all the oil out of the inside that little dam if the filings arent removed.
That is my understnding, is keep the wheel clean. They are not a dry run CBN wheel.
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

Cedarman

You can't blame the magnet for not stopping the blade if you forget to put it on. ;D ;D

I put the magnet on the 7th sharpened tooth as it comes out of the sharpener.  
I am in the pink when sawing cedar.

YellowHammer

I put magnets under the tray in different places, as a metal filing "pre filter."  So before any filings can get to the pump's magnets, they have to get past these other strategically placed magnets, which they can't. So that keeps the pump from running dry.

When it's time to clean the mess out, I all the magnets off the underside of the tray and reach in with rubber gloved hands and pick the the piles and put them in an open top bucket.  When thy've settled for a few days, I pour the oil back in the sharpener, and the metal filings into the garbage.

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

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