Husky dealer threw me a curve, need advice.

edelen · February 07, 2005, 01:15:54 PM

Finally decided to pull the trigger and get a Husky 350 to handle the ice-damaged trees on my property (I'd posted here before about this a few weeks back.) My local dealer has competitive prices and was the one I got my Kubota tractor from, so they are nice to deal with.

Unfortunately, they threw me a curve right away when I thought I knew what I wanted in the 350 (with a 20" blade.) The guy said I should consider the new Rancher 455 instead for $60 more. I did a search here about the 455 and not much has been said except that people are leery of the new emission controls. I'm not sure I'm keen on the two pound difference either.

Any thoughts? The sales guy thought for the amount of trees I was felling and cutting (about fifteen) that I would like the better power of the 455. If that is true, would I be better off getting the 353 rather than the 350 or 455? After this job, most of my use for the saw would be maybe an hour or two once every couple years.

Thanks in advance!

Old_Town · February 07, 2005, 02:10:00 PM

Hello,
I have a Husky 55R with a 20" bar and it cuts well. I keep the chain very sharp and I have never had a problem with it even cutting dry hardwoods. I think the 350 will pull a 20" bar just fine. Some of the best Husky prices can be found here:

http://www.toolsineed.com/productsHusqChainsaw.htm

I have bought two saws ans a pruner from"SS" and they have always done me right.

rebocardo · February 07, 2005, 02:30:29 PM

Two pounds is a big difference if you are holding the saw for three to four hours in a row.

Since this saw is being purchased for these 15 trees and then only occasional use, I would stick with a tried and true saw that is 2 pounds lighter.

Let everyone else work out the bugs and problems in the newer models. I do the same thing with cars. Let everyone else work on the national recalls, bugs, electricals, and design mistakes. Once it is a solid product, then I spend my money. Only once did I buy a new product model car (81 Camaro) and it ended up being one of the worse purchases ever.

I do the same with computers and networking products where customers do not "need" the newest stuff (want is always another story).

tony_marks · February 07, 2005, 08:40:45 PM

possibilities...ishe getting benefits to promote the new model..hes in buisiness .. the best way to do it imo...
always do whats bst for the customer ..
is he really trying to do that.. well you know him ,its always possible he really thinks that saw is best for you..then its posible hes not able to get 55 saws as easily..judgement call. buy the one you really want ,but demo the 455..mite be heckof a saw..

Woodcarver · February 08, 2005, 12:16:38 AM

I've put the 353 I bought a couple of weeks ago to daily use cutting and bucking up aspen for pulp. I'm happy with it.

It's a smooth running saw and relatively light. A couple of pounds is a significant difference if you use a saw for any lenght of time.

lucky_cutter · February 08, 2005, 12:43:50 PM

I do not think either saw would make a difference for as little and as often as you are cutting. The 350 and 353 are proven saws and either would serve you well. The 455 is still unknown as it is new.

J_T · February 08, 2005, 10:30:01 PM

Problulmo solved get a Sthil MS310 :D :D ;D

edelen · February 09, 2005, 05:13:25 PM

Quote from: J_T on February 08, 2005, 10:30:01 PM
Problulmo solved get a Sthil MS310 :D :D ;D

Their dealer network in my area is really poor or else I would consider a Stihl. The only guy anywhere near me I don't think is all that great a dealer. Other people have mentioned he's not great to work with, too.

Larry · February 09, 2005, 05:49:36 PM

I bought a 350 right after they came out. No problems but I would have to guess with a 20" bar it is going to be pretty wimpy.

I run a 16" bar on my saw and that is about all it wants.

edelen · February 09, 2005, 06:19:06 PM

Quote from: Larry on February 09, 2005, 05:49:36 PM
I bought a 350 right after they came out. No problems but I would have to guess with a 20" bar it is going to be pretty wimpy.

I run a 16" bar on my saw and that is about all it wants.

???
Thanks for the advice. I was told I really need a 20" bar, but don't want to break the bank. I also called a dealer for another brand of saw and he says he now carries Stihl and he's very close to me, too. I saw that the Stihl's are a bit more power for the money when compared with the Huskies.

Oh well, just trying to buy the best saw I can for $350 that will do the job with a 20" bar.

tony_marks · February 09, 2005, 06:36:09 PM

woodsjunkie eric ecopsey had an 962 for sale that would put you in another bracket ,as to how much saw you had.. i saw it run .. real mean saw..
dont think that money would get it, but you could mabe work something out..

J_T · February 09, 2005, 06:39:51 PM

Yoy are right dealer makes a difference . I have a good dealer and I had a bunch of spare bars and chains whin I was saw shopping. I put a 24'' on that 310 and it still cuts just fine. so I would think 20'' would work fine for you .Understand your budget but don't shoot yourself in the foot to save a few bucks . I have done it before and it hurts a long time :D :D :D

Ironwood · February 09, 2005, 10:45:23 PM

The thought of less fumes going in my lungs sounds good after being in close quarters today with my huskies. ????????????????? Good luck. :D

sawguy21 · February 13, 2005, 12:59:31 PM

Is the MS310 still available down south? We flogged the last ones here last summer.

J_T · February 13, 2005, 03:06:50 PM

I'm in Tennessee if that is south of you then yep we got em 8) 8)Last year mine was 345 a real Sthil ;D

Mark M · February 14, 2005, 10:35:04 PM

I've got a like-new 345 I'll let go for $175 plus shipping.

Did you look at the 346? I've got one and it's a screamer. The Husky 55 has a good reputation. How big are your trees? I like as short of bar as possible

Stephen_Wiley · February 15, 2005, 02:04:40 AM

Considering the amount of use you are talking about. Might I suggest that you consider a used saw. Of course some discretion will be necessary, however if your local shop mechanic truly wants your business *he/she will direct you to a good purchase.

I have many older model saws which outperform todays new ones and are in use daily.

*About the most political correct I ever get. Proud Member of the M.C.C. (Male Chauvinist Club)

leweee · February 15, 2005, 11:47:42 AM

Quote from: Stephen_Wiley on February 15, 2005, 02:04:40 AM

*About the most political correct I ever get. Proud Member of the M.C.C. (Male Chauvinist Club)

Stephen..... me too ..... their a dieing breed :(

edelen....Throw that Husky dealer a"Hershizer" tellem your considering a Stihl :D :D :D
seriously I prefer the older adjustable (no fixed jet) saws. I want a saw that is tunable by me.( not the dealer.....or the EPA) Lots of saws out there with very little use on them....If you got the time check them out . ;D jmo....from a man that has never bought a" new" saw

Avalancher · February 15, 2005, 11:50:58 AM

I have a Husky 350 that I run with a 20 inch bar, and I have no complaints. I use it for bucking and limbing prior to milling, and I couldnt be happier with that saw. Now, on really big stuff I will drag out the 372 but it had better be really big before it comes out. The 350 has never given me any problem, has power to spare with a 20 inch bar, and is light enough to carry around all day. Starts on the third pull every time except when its really cold, which we dont see much of down here in Alabama.

Sparkkky · February 16, 2005, 10:51:42 PM

Mark is that 345 still for sale?

Varmintmist · February 17, 2005, 09:57:16 AM

Take the 350. Think abou it, you are going to cut 15 trees, thats about 2 weekends if you take your time. Or a month + if your wife is in a "mood" :D Will it cut slower than a bigger saw?? Yes. Does it really matter?? Not for your uses. You could go with a 136 with a 16 in bar and do the work you want to do. It will just take longer.

You are looking for a good all around saw, a utility saw that you can limb, trim and cut with. The bigger it is the less you will want to use it for little stuff. The 350 is a nice size.

Just MHO

edelen · February 19, 2005, 02:25:48 AM

First of all, major thanks to all who have replied.

Okay, a quick recap. About two dozen ice damaged trees on my property, some topped, some completely toppled, some with broken limbs. Size range is up to 48" in circumference, but most are around 32" or so. Me? A complete chainsaw beginner. Spending far more money on safety equipment than the saw! Will probably use the saw about once/twice a year afterwards.

After thinking about how I want to use this saw, I am rethinking the issue of weight vs. power. It may mean spending a few bucks more, but I am impressed with the incredibly light weight of the Husky 346XP and Stihl MS 260 Pro. Some of my trees need to be limbed and the thought of having a lighter saw really appeals to me.

I understand that both of these are professional saws, but I am willing to step up if it means I get a great saw. Though after reading through the forums on these two it seems to me that people are running them with shorter bars. Considering the size of trees I have to cut down, would these saws be appropriate with an 18" or 20" bar?

Also, after talking with some other people there is some concern about the 346XP being "less safe" since it evidently runs faster than some other models out there. Should this be a concern? The fact that it is lighter would have me believe it is actually safer to use since it would not be as fatiguing for long use.

I said I also looked at the Stihl 310 someone recommended. Any objections to this saw (other than the fact that it is pretty hefty?) Anything I should know in advance?

This is a great forum. Everyone is very helpful!

KiwiCharlie · February 19, 2005, 02:37:20 AM

This is when Im glad Im not in the US (and other countries maybe) - all the saws imported here have the adjustment screws accesable by the end user. NZ doesnt have the altitude differences that other counrties have, but all the same, I like to be able to tune my own saw when the need arisies. It may change in the future, but right now, Im glad! ;D Also, we can still get the 038 Stihl here (I have one) when its not available in most countries now. I think its still made in Brazil.
Cheers
Charlie

Furby · February 19, 2005, 03:14:25 AM

Well I don't know much about the saws you have listed, but for what you are talking about a 16" box store Poulan is going to do everything you need.

Now my two cents is to spend a little more and get a better saw, but not go overboard here. It sounds like you just keep climbing up the ladder on saws. Any one of them will do what you are talking about. You are not talking about making a living with the saw, so how fast it cuts means nothing, for the most part.

I admit it, I have a poulan wild thing! The saw isn't much, but I still use it 95% of the time. I don't feel bad when it rolls of the log I set it on, or I nick the dirt with the cheap chain. I split a 8' long 36" dia pine in half with the saw. I find the 18" bar to be way longer then needed for general limbing, however.

Anyways as I said, I'd go with a better but cheaper end husky or sthil. No chance you will need a 20" bar for what you are talking about, it'll just add more weight. I'd get a 16", but 18" if ya feel ya need it. You can always move up in the chainsaw world later on, if ya don't spend too much to get started.

Just my 2 cents. ;)

jokers · February 19, 2005, 03:38:25 PM

Hi Edelen,

If my backward(circumference to diameter) math is correct, you`re looking at trees mostly in the 10" diameter range up to a bit over 13". Did you really mean circumference or did you mean diameter, because obviously there is a significant difference.

Assuming that we are speaking of trees in the 10-13" diameter range, almost any saw will do the job, especially since you are talking about maybe two dozen trees. I laud you for realizing the need for a good dealer and PPE especially when considering your self professed limited saw experience. Obviously you won`t get good dealer support from any retailer selling saws such as a Wildthing so you are natuarally led toward a premium brand such as Husky or Stihl. I encourage you to hold fast to the belief that a knowledgable and HONEST dealer can provide a benefit to you.

Given the small diameter of the trees to be removed, a 50cc saw with a 16"-18" bar will be more than adequate although running a 20" bar may save your back when limbing. The extra length can however become a hindrance if there are many limbs which are close together. You may find yourself working with the bar tip more often to allow dexterity while limbing versus supporting the body of a shorter bar saw on the bole of the tree, thus making your work harder. You need to consider your specific application to determine what will be best for you. Don`t forget that a shorter bar also means less cutters to sharpen and less expense for replacement chains although this cost should be neglible when purchasing the saw new.

I`d like to speak with the people who have told you that the 346xp is "less safe" because of the speed of the engine. What do these people advocate, the old "heavier than a dead minister" gear drive saws where you could almost count the teeth as they rolled by? Both the ms260 and 346xp have a free revving engine speed of 14k rpm or better with listed peak power at 9,700rpm vs peak power at about 9k rpm for most other modern saws. What this relates to is a theoretical chain speed while in the cut. If we assume that all saws being considered are running a 7 tooth gear, the 346 and ms260 will spin the 16" 66 or 67 driver chain around the bar 74 more times/minute than the other saws when all are properly operated, but all of the other saws are still spinning the chain about 950 times per minute. Higher chain speed does relate to higher potential reactive force, but proper stance and grip will save your bacon in the event of a kickback.

Since you are considering lighter saws with a higher power/weight ratio, I don`t understand where the ms310 fits into this discussion. Frankly I think the 310 is underpowered for it`s weight and price and it`s not one of Stihl`s best built saws. I apologize to the people who have them for my harsh assessment of their equipment, I don`t mean to offend, I just think that there are better choices if price is your governing factor and if weight is the issue, there are much more powerful saws for the weight. For what you have described I would buy a Husky 353 with a 16" bar. It`s a very well built lightweight saw with better anti vibe than the competition, which has been proven with very sophisticated equipment to measure the vibration.

Other viable choices form Husky would include the 345, 350, a 351 if you found it for the right price, and of course the 346xp.

If your heart is set on a Stihl, I`d recommend the ms250 as an excellent lightweight saw with decent power and a fair price. Next I would recommend the ms260 but the price is prohibitive, and finally I would consider the ms280. I`m just not sold on the 280 being worth it`s price since it doesn`t have great power and the anti vibe is so soft that it feels mushy in the cut. It feels to me like I`m not completely in control when using the 280, I just don`t like the feel.

I think you are wise to consider the effect of weight on ultimate safety. Fatigue, especially for someone not accustomed to using a saw, is a real danger zone.

I have no idea what type of dealers that you have in your area but there is a guy who goes by the name of Hunter on this forum who is in Pickering who could be of great value to you. It would probably be worth a road trip to see him or maybe he could hook you up with a good local dealer. I`m sure that he would be willing to help you out.

Russ