Hello All: I'm new on the forum. I'm considering purchasing a good quality motorized chain sharpener for my own use but for possibly hanging my shingle out as well. There seems to be quite a number of units out there. Does anyone have experience with using any of the current models out there and have opinions on models that are good stable designs. Thank you.
I know a guy that has one from Granberg (not sure of the model) and he swears by it.
Look for one that the grinding wheel reverses, electricly, so when you change the angle, for the other cutters it is grinding in the same way you would file. Most electric units, the grinding wheels turn in the same direction. The better one will also do the rakers, as they do a cutter.Try Baily's web site. I do not find their web site user friendly, may be just Google. Dinasaw, Bellsaw, or saw chain sharpeners.
They are not inexpensive.
Welcome to Forestry Forum!
No advice except to look at FF sponsor Comstock Logging Suppies, Inc. also...
http://www.shopcomstocklogging.com/Chain-Saw-Sharpening_c_16.html
I will second Comstock. Just started purchasing from them and so far I like. Also have heard excellent things about CHAINSAWR. Just never ordered from him.
Course I don't purchase a lot but if you ever do order from either mention you saw them on the Forestry Forum. A lot of people on here have been thru the school of hard knocks and can give invaluable advice. Sometimes no one can tell you the easy/best way to fix something but they can sure tell you from experience what doesn't work.
A box of quality files is a lot cheaper and more effective in the right hands. Practice, practice, practice. If speed and production are issues Oregon makes the 510A a scaled down version of the tried and true 511AX. It still ain't cheap but is far better than the offshore junk from a supplier I won't mention.
As far as reversing, I don't like that feature from a safety standpoint. Grinding the right hand cutters puts the sparks and debris directly back at the operator. A touch with a file will remove any burrs.
I bought a brand new one about 18 years ago and it is still in the box. Never set it up. It is an Oregon and the last time I looked up the price it was well over $400. I even have the metal to build the stand to mount it to. Maybe one of these days I will give it a try. For now hand filing fills the bill.
I've been running a Oregon 511 for 40 years, works great and my chains cut. Steve
Oregon makes a good grinder, so does Logosol. There is a company that has picked up where Silvey left off also. Comstock is a good place to start.
I get a much sharper chain by hand filing and it's faster too. Learn when to throw your file away and replace it.
check Madsen's Shop & Supply Inc., Simington sharpener.
Ruff,
I have not invested in one for the shop but an absolute must have IMO is the 12v electric with alligator clamps to attach to truck or 4 wheeler battery for sharpening in the field when you nick a rock or get dirty. I have had one made by Oregon and one by Sthil. The Oregon worked better for me because the switch is on the unit rather than the cord plus it uses anyone's stones. The Sthil has threaded stone shafts and you have to get them from the dealer. For the price of a couple of chains I extended the life tremendously on my chains and I just sharpen on the saw as needed. I figure if you have a chainsaw you need one of these handy sharpeners.
I've had good luck with my MAXX grinder. The head tilts so you're always grinding into the chain like the old reversible Oregons. They had to quit making those because of the shower of sparks the operator got. I've also got a Tecomec with hydraulic clamping set up for 3/4" pitch chain. It works good. I've got CBN wheels on both of them.
How high off the floor do you mount your grinders? I wear safety glasses and like to watch the wheel going in. Means I am bent over . Anybody else like to watch the process?
I like the chain about chin high when sitting, I am more comfortable and more accurate.
My wife picked up a Timber Tuff from Tractor Supply for me 3 years ago. I sharpen 6 to 10 chains a week on it and even use it for my 3/4" processor chain. The only issue I had was last summer when the switch went out. Called the mfg in the midwest and had a switch a couple days later. They even tried to warranty it for me but in good faith it was well out of their written period and I use it a lot.
Lot of good advice and since you may hang out your shingle, it should pay for itself pretty fast. Don't go cheap, you get what you pay for in tools. I use hand files mostly. I may invest in a good sharpener down the road, but only if I plan to hang a shingle out. Cutting firewood, I just can't dull em fast enough to make an expensive sharpener cost efficient.
Quote from: sawdusty1 on January 22, 2015, 10:51:59 PM
Learn when to throw your file away and replace it.
That is so true. I am guilty of using a file a bit past its prime and should not.
Don't throw the old ones away. Save Edge can resharpen them too. Usually the resharpen cost is 1/2 or less the cost of a new one and they are as good as new.
The idea of sending your files to Save Edge and having them resharpened is great but economically its not worth it. I think they charge $1.25 each to sharpen plus the cost of shipping and you can purchase new save edge files for $1.33 each.
I guess I was referring to files in general. A decent flat file is 4-6 bucks or more depending on size. Chainsaw files are relatively inexpensive, may not be worth the hassle.
i know what you mean. And it is almost impossible to buy a quality file today. I have a stack of old Heller/Simonds files that I am saving up to send to save edge at some point. Some people hoard the weirdest things....my addiction is quality files, chisels, drill bits. Have boxes full of each yet every time i need one i end up running to the hardware store to buy new
I use both, grinder and files. Many folks especially pilgrims never take the chain off the bar until its replaced that's wrong. Every couple of filings the bar should come off and everything cleaned and readjusted. After a few filings I grind the chain to even things and especially if something was hit. If you have a hard time filing a ground chain you were too agresive grinding. Of course I'am just an old phart what do I know. Frank C.
Quote from: bandmiller2 on February 09, 2015, 07:49:36 AM
If you have a hard time filing a ground chain you were too agresive grinding.
Why is this? Run into this once in a while & haven't figured it out. huh-smiley
Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on February 09, 2015, 12:02:46 PM
Quote from: bandmiller2 on February 09, 2015, 07:49:36 AM
If you have a hard time filing a ground chain you were too agresive grinding.
Why is this? Run into this once in a while & haven't figured it out. huh-smiley
Overheated during grinding, then "air quenches" to harden the tooth. Usually it's not the entire tooth that gets hardened, it's more of a skin hardening, but it can be a real pain trying to hand-file through that skin (and you can ruin a lot of files attempting it).
Not all steel alloys will air harden, some are more susceptible to it than others, and smaller pieces (or fine edges on a larger piece) are more likely than larger ones (it's easier to air harden the working edge if a chainsaw tooth than a railroad spike of the same alloy)
Duh ( ::) ::)) Got it, thanks!
You never go wrong buying a good tool or saw. They cost more but are cheapest in the long haul. In 76 I bought a home and had a young family and could ill afford it but bought a Stihl 031 and whats now an Oregon grinder. The grinders were made in Italy and this was before Oregon picked them up. Both are still working and have repaid me exponentially. Frank C.
Quote from: mad murdock on January 22, 2015, 06:46:27 PM
Oregon makes a good grinder, so does Logosol. There is a company that has picked up where Silvey left off also. Comstock is a good place to start.
I know this thread is a year old, but it has piqued my curiosity as to who has picked up where Silvey has left off?
Just now I checked out Comstock.com and didn't see a grinder at the "Silvey" level. Round or Square - did I miss something?
A Silvey 510 is what I long for - Buehler - anyone???
Thanks guys -
- Stuart Herder
Alexandria, Virginia
This is a great thread with lots of good replies.
But I noticed the OP ( ruffed grouse) only posted once to start it but not so much even a thankyou. Maybe he's still stuck under a tree or something :D
HolmenTree,here one day,gone the next!!!
I own a Harbor Freight chain wrecker/sharpener. Once in a while I get lucky with it and it'll kinda work pretty good. Would love to buy a good one, maybe a 12V rotary type with a guide.
Quote from: thecfarm on February 28, 2016, 02:12:05 PM
HolmenTree,here one day,gone the next!!!
Yup and then they ask the same question over on another forum :laugh:
How do you know when you need a new hand file?
A box of Oregon 13/64 and, a box of Nicholson 1/4" files are hard to beat for cost, efficiency, speed, results, and PERFORMANCE. God Bless
Quote from: Lnewman on March 01, 2016, 08:31:06 PM
How do you know when you need a new hand file?
When it cuts like a dull chain ;D
:D How true that is. The file will just not take so much off. Just remember how that new ones files,than after a while you will notice how the file does not seem to be working so good. I buy mine by the box,a box will last me a long time.
I just happened to watch a wranglestar you tube video and he seemed really high on the Granberg 12 volt sharpening system. Has any one used one? Good bad? thx
The granberg electric(12v dc) is a good system, as well as their file holder/guide. Both good options, as you can sharpen the chain on the bar vs having to take it off the bar to sharpen a loop. Madsen's in WA state sells used silvey and they have an entry level grinder (Tecomoec) which looks decent, if you are hung up on an off the bar grinder option. Comstock may have something just as good, I would certainly go with a forum sponsor first.