Alternative to anchorseal?

[Tom the Sawyer]

Most of my clients don't end coat their logs but a few do.  AnchorSeal, or similar products, are much preferred for a couple of reasons.  Primarily it is because of its ability to do the job, some paint doesn't seal very well, sealer's like Thompsons soak in but don't really seal the pores.

The tar-based products, driveway sealer or roof coating, make a mess, gum up the blade and leave stains on the milled surface.  :(

A big concern with opaque products like roof sealer or the paints, is that you can't read the grain of the log accurately, and you obscure things like blue stain in oaks or black stain in walnut.  :(

[21incher]

I dont know if it was something that I did wrong while drying, but some of the first walnut I milled I put several coats of latex paint on to seal the ends and the wood dried without splitting open. But when I machined it there were fine cracks that developed that look like the fibers seperated, but didn't split apart and the wood would break real easy in first foot of a board. After that I stoped painting it and just let it split where it wants to and have no more surprises.

[Delawhere Jack]

When I worked at a circle mill they would use boiled linseed oil with
parafin melted into it.
Used a paint can 3/4 full (linseed)  add 1 piece of wax heat till melted.
Once mixed it will stay for weeks.
Only used on high grade logs.

Had a client that sealed his logs in a similar fashion. He used paraffin wax melted down and thinned with mineral spirits. Very similar results to Anchorseal, and I could still see the growth rings when the log was on the mill.

[Ox]

This is the classic recipe for Waxoil - a protectant for metal surfaces against corrosion.  I've never used it, but many people swear by it much like others swear by Fluid Film.  I'm in the latter group.

[Cazzhrdwd]

I've had my first bout with Anchor Seal  and the stuff is great. I didn't like using paint as I ended up with slab wood that I sell with paint on the ends. Its much easier to paint the logs than boards.

For those who do end coat, I get a lot of waste while applying it with a 4" brush. Seems a sprayer would be better, do you guys have any ideas on a simple hand pump sprayer or is there a better way to apply it without all the waste dripping?

[OffGrid973]

If you do not have an abundance of lumber such as walnut and cherry I would say Anchorseal is the perfect option.  I have focused on Slabs and thick pieces for making furniture and I like the moisture readings in the wood near the anchor sealed ends is similar to a puncture in the middle of the wood with my moisture meter. 

I guess it depends how much material you have and sizes you are cutting, stocking, etc.  Also there is no chance I would let some of the options above hit my tools, Anchorseal I never had an issue with.

FYI - those small checks mean most likely the material was not dry enough, don't think it was the sealer that caused that.

[Brucer]

Latex paint doesn't work very well -- it tends to breathe, which is exactly what you don't want. I've seen some very nice birch logs ruined because the owner ignored everyone's advice and used latex paint on the ends.

[alanh]

I read wax will work? my wife is in the soy candle business, always 10 gallons of soy wax hot and ready... I would only do the slabs that are drying for extended time...

[caveman]

I have been melting bees' wax and applying with a chip brush.  It seals the ends well and before I get the ends coated several honey bees stop by to visit.  It also smells really good.

[GeneWengert-WoodDoc]

End coating is suppose to slow or stop the end of logs or lumber from drying.  If the ends dry faster than the rest of the lumber, they shrink and create stress that can result in end checks.  Some species shrink less than others, so low shrinkage means low stress.  Low stress means low benefit from end coating.

So, not all species need end coating.  However, for many species, like birch, oak, walnut, and maple, end coating means no end checks due to drying if the coating is put on thick enough, if the coating stops or greatly retards drying (latex paint often does not), and if the coating is applied before any checks occur. 

The coating makes the lumber more useful to the ultimate user and means a log can be a few inches shorter, which means the next log up the tree is a bit larger is diameter, etc.

Maybe Anchorseal will let the OP be a sales outlet for AK.  That might save money.  I could always throw a 5 gal. Bucket in my RV when I come to AK.

Anchorseal works and so do some of the alternatives mentioned.  Anchorseal is easy to apply...spray or brush.  It is not flammable, compared to paraffin.  It can have antifreeze...many other products get very stiff when cold in AK compared to cold weather here in the South.  It is in water so has no harmful emissions as it cures.  Finally, it can be colored red to remind everyone about the great Univ of WI Badgers, and the Bulldogs of U of GA.  That should really help lumber sales.

[taw6243]

elastomeric roof coating $16/gal at menards it is white and thick will not let logs or boards crack

Tim

[terrifictimbersllc]

This stuff is about $17 a gallon delivered (admittedly not everywhere)  and I heard it works great.
http://uccoatings.com/product/anchorseal-2-5gallon/

[WLC]

Maybe Anchorseal will let the OP be a sales outlet for AK.  That might save money.  I could always throw a 5 gal. Bucket in my RV when I come to AK.

  Finally, it can be colored red to remind everyone about the great Univ of WI Badgers, and the Bulldogs of U of GA.  That should really help lumber sales.

When and where are you coming to here in our great state? If it works out I might just take you up on your offer.

I like the idea of UGA red colored anything.  Went to school there many moons ago and worked at the Forestry Sciences Lab there on campus for about 10 years.

[WDH]

Finally, it can be colored red to remind everyone about the great Univ of WI Badgers, and the Bulldogs of U of GA.  That should really help lumber sales.

:D :D

[jwlogdog]

I have had heard that one gal. of wood glue mixed with one qt. of water is excellent alternative

[florida]

Home Depot and I'm sure all the big box stores sells a product called "Red Guard." It's make for waterproofing walls before installing tile such as a shower. I've used it to seal many leaks. I'm sure it would work well for sealing logs

[Dana Stanley]

I've been using whatever leftover latex paint I have. Interior or exterior, and it seems to work good. Had god awful red, and really crappy blue, and was glad to get rid of them. People thought I had them color coded by species, which I may start doing!