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Woodmizer blade

Started by Hayseed, September 27, 2019, 02:49:17 PM

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Crusarius


MobileSawMilSlo

Hi

Guys, I need one explanation regarding cutting spruce.
I agree that 7 or 4-degree blade is the best for spruce. I also confirm, that set around 0.35 is good.

But I do not understand why shallow gullet could be good. 

Because of the set is larger, than the gullet can not be shallow. Shallow gullet will quickly fill with sawdust and when gullet is full problems will start.

Do you agree or I missed something? 

Woodmizer LT20 mobile and TTP-600 Premium Plus
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ladylake

 I think the gullet doesn't get full at all, maybe if sawing 75 feet per minute in soft wood in a 20" wide cut.  I'll say this again I saw spruce the straightest with a 4° blade, heavy set , 3/4 pitch blade which has a shallow gullet.  To me a deep gullet blade has less blade body to keep the blade straight and taller teeth to twist the blade more.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Stephen1

Quote from: Crusarius on October 13, 2019, 10:25:37 AM
Remle that would be great. so far I have not sharpened anything. I have a pretty big stock of blades. Just been playing with different profiles and stuff to see what I like the best.
I think untill you have your mill set up and running straight true cuts, I would run the same blade. Experimenting with blades on an unproven build mill is going to give you trouble and then your not sure what is wrong. 
90% of bad sawing is due to blades. 
I was given 1.5" .55Kasco 7's this summer and I set the mill up to saw with them, 2 cuts and they were wandering, and that was in a red oak cant. I spend 2 hrs at a customer trying to adjust the mill, I put on a new blade , it sawed 2 cuts  and wandered. I drove back to my shop and picked up my carbide blades, beautifull sawing the rest of the day. Kasco informed me that they had a bad batch of steel and will replace the blades. Not the mill, not me, bad blades.
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

Crusarius

With hardwoods I only have issues when the blade gets dull. Other than that I can cut hardwoods all day with no issues. Its the darn softwoods that kill me. I think I am getting it figured out though. Looks like to high of feed speed. I do think that my drive belt may be slipping. I need to retension that again before doing any cutting.

Stephen1

Quote from: Crusarius on October 22, 2019, 08:37:42 AM
With hardwoods I only have issues when the blade gets dull. Other than that I can cut hardwoods all day with no issues. Its the darn softwoods that kill me. I think I am getting it figured out though. Looks like to high of feed speed. I do think that my drive belt may be slipping. I need to retension that again before doing any cutting.
Slipping driive belts will do that for sure. The only time I had trouble on the old mill with a 24onan was dead ash. I had to change to a 9 degree blade.
I used the same blade for everything -10's
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

Bruno of NH

The 1 1/4" .055 Woodmizer 747 make my Mill cut much better in the knotty pine.
I'm only going to buy. 055 now , I can tell a tremendous difference in the cut quality.
Lt 40 wide with 38hp gas and command controls , F350 4x4 dump and lot of contracting tools

Stephen1

Quote from: Bruno of NH on October 24, 2019, 05:00:12 PM
The 1 1/4" .055 Woodmizer 747 make my Mill cut much better in the knotty pine.
I'm only going to buy. 055 now , I can tell a tremendous difference in the cut quality.
I see more and more and choosing the 055, especially with the larger HP. 
How long do they last? How many sharpening's can you get before they break? Years ago I ran some 055 and was only able to get 1 sharpening out of them. 
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

Bruno of NH

They stay sharp 
I have not had any sharpened yet. 
Cut hard maple today fast and flat
Lt 40 wide with 38hp gas and command controls , F350 4x4 dump and lot of contracting tools

Magicman

Even if they are still cutting flat, don't be fooled and run them dull. 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Bruno of NH

I won't 
I learned my lesson on a 4° band last week.
Left it it on to long and broke my first band ever.
Ran it to long.
Lt 40 wide with 38hp gas and command controls , F350 4x4 dump and lot of contracting tools

YellowHammer

On a 19 inch band wheel (LT-40) I would get between 1 and max 3 sharpening before they broke.  I switched totally to .055 some time ago.  I would have couple B-57's for spares in case a broken band cut one up.   

On my LT-70 I'm on my 4rth sharpening round on some.

Other than blade life, as I mentioned, anything an .045 would do, an .055 can do better.  Flatter, faster, straighter.  However, at the sacrifice of flex life.  For me, it was well worth it.

 
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Magicman

I got 2-3 resharpens on .055 Turbo 7° blades.  I also witnessed two sawyers, one with an LT50 and the other with an LT40 break new .055 Turbo 7° blades that never had a chance to be resharpened, not once.  I did not check their sharpness (dullness). 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

PAmizerman

Quote from: Magicman on October 26, 2019, 07:23:45 PM
Even if they are still cutting flat, don't be fooled and run them dull.
Agree. They will snap really quick if they are run dull. 
Woodmizer lt40 super remote 42hp Kubota diesel. Accuset II
Hydraulics everywhere
Woodmizer edger 26hp cat diesel
Traverse 6035 telehandler
Case 95xt skidloader
http://byrnemillwork.com/
WM bms250 sharpener
WM bmt250 setter
and a lot of back breaking work!!

ncsawyer

I ran 9° blades on just about everything on my old 18HP LT40 and had good results.  With the low HP, the feed rate had to be slowed down on big logs and wide cuts.  

On my diesel LT40 I started out with 7° .042 blades and was not satisfied at all.  Even in pine it would wave all over the place, especially short leaf pine. I changed to 4° .055.  blades and they cut much better, but noticeably slower.  But even with these blades I regularly run into some difficult sawing, especially in white oak and of course hickory and big short leaf pine can be difficult to get to saw straight even with a brand new blade.  

I have some 30 inch white and red oak to saw in the next week or so and am thinking about trying the new 747 .055.  I am not worried about the red oak, but would like to find a blade that would cut white oak more consistently.

2015 Wood-Mizer LT40DD35
Woodmaster 718 planer
Ford 445 Skip Loader

Peter Drouin

I'm the odd guy I run the 55 till they wave then put on a sharp one. I grind-heavy. 
I get 4 or 5 sharpenings out of them. By that time the hard part of the tooth is gone, then I junk them. I don't wait for them to break first. I tighten the blade till I can't turn the handle anymore. ;D

I don't baby my blades at all. ;D 
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Bruno of NH

This 747 band is working great for me.
Milled some old dry ash logs I have had for a year.Before that they sat at a concentration yard for a year.
I had trouble milling these logs before with other bands.
747 went like a hot knife in butter.
They stay sharp. 
Lt 40 wide with 38hp gas and command controls , F350 4x4 dump and lot of contracting tools

PAmizerman

Woodmizer lt40 super remote 42hp Kubota diesel. Accuset II
Hydraulics everywhere
Woodmizer edger 26hp cat diesel
Traverse 6035 telehandler
Case 95xt skidloader
http://byrnemillwork.com/
WM bms250 sharpener
WM bmt250 setter
and a lot of back breaking work!!

jeepcj779

Most seem to be of the opinion that .55 blades cut better than .45 blades. What about 1.25 vs 1.5 in wide? What benefits does the wider blade have? 

barbender

In my limited experience, I gained more performance from thicker .055" blades than the wider 1.5". However, they only lasted 2-3 sharpenings.
Too many irons in the fire

Percy

Quote from: jeepcj779 on November 08, 2019, 12:01:00 AM
Most seem to be of the opinion that .55 blades cut better than .45 blades. What about 1.25 vs 1.5 in wide? What benefits does the wider blade have?
My experience has been the 1.5 blades can be pushed a little harder than the 1.25 blades. The 1.5 blades are more sensitive to proper blade alignment...Just my observation over the years. Your results may vary....heh....
GOLDEN RULE : The guy with the gold, makes the rules.

YellowHammer

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

jeepcj779

YellowHammer mentioned earlier in the thread that he tried, but didn't like the .55's on an LT 40 because of the extra wear and tear as compared to the .45's (even though they cut better), but that they seemed fine on his LT70. He also said anything a .45 can do, a .55 can do better. For those of you who have experience with both .45 and .55 blades on different platforms, is the performance increase you see with .55's worth the reduction in sharpening cycles (seems like a 50% reduction is average)? What are the advantages of the .55 over the .45? Being able to push harder? Cut flatter? Being able to push harder while cutting flatter? Are .45's better suited to a LT40 sized mill than .55's, maybe due to the 19" band wheels?

barbender

My experience on an LT40 with 55 and 45 blades is that you can push the 55s way harder and the lumber stays flat, if you have enough hp. I gained more cutting speed while maintaining cut quality going to the thicker 55 blades, vs a wider 1.5" vs 1.25". Of course, you can go to a 1.5"x 0.55 and really start sawing!😁 I have to piddle around with a lot of small logs and such, and in those situations the 55s aren't worth it for me as they don't last long enough. If I get in bigger logs, especially pine, and I want to saw fast I'll get more 55s. Mine all broke so I'm cycling through all my 045s.
Too many irons in the fire

jeepcj779

So the type and size of logs you are sawing are factors in determining the thickness of blade to be used, as a thicker blade may not be required to saw flat in smaller or softer logs.

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