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Plantation Pine

Started by DarrellC, June 07, 2013, 10:00:16 PM

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beenthere

As you have prolly figured out, thinning within the stand will present a problem getting a thinned tree out. When you cut it off, it will likely just stand there leaning on other trees. Getting ahold of the butt and dragging it out and down makes the row thinning the easiest path to take them out. But you may have a technique in mind or develop one as you go along that makes good sense and works well for you.  8)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Ianab

Removing whole rows is the easiest in terms of actually getting the trees down. Each tree you remove make a space to get the next tree down.

The only problem is you might be removing some of the best tree, and leaving some of the poorer ones. The 12-13 ones are the dominant ones, and will respond best to being released. The 7 & 8" one have been suppressed the most and are the most likely to break off when the other are removed, and will respond the poorest to being released anyway.

So I would suggest being flexible and mixing it up a bit if you need to, to keep the better trees. It doesn't matter of the spacing ends a bit more random. and you end up with 2 good trees 6 ft apart, with space around them.

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

Gary_C

You need to do both row thinning and thinning within the rows. My preferred method, with a harvester is to take one row out for access and leave two rows on either side of the removed row. That removes one fifth or 20 %. Then thin within the two rows on either side.

But with the tree height you have and thinning by hand, you may have to cut one row out of four or even three for ease in dropping trees. And that way, you can start on the side away from the prevailing winds and take out rows first at your preferred spacing. Then the second pass you can thin within the rows. 
Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.

BradMarks

DarrellC:  As you can tell, there are many ways to do a thinning and benefit the stand.  Two things I would like to comment on;  the wind issue and your "notch".  Hard to tell for sure, but it appears in the pic two trees may have had their top blown out in the past, one on the right edge, one in the middle, about 30? feet up.  I would remove trees within range of your planned structure.  And secondly, you indicated maybe "take some logs to the mill".  Leave the wood on the log, not the stump. Make your "face cut" (notch) on the bole below the level where your "back cut" will be.  Every little bit counts in scale.  Happy cutting!

thecfarm

Quote from: DarrellC on June 08, 2013, 12:34:49 AM

Excavator wanted me to cut them high so he could pull them.

I thought the same thing. But there is a method to his madness. Or that's what I say anyways.  ;D
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

DarrellC

Quote from: BradMarks on June 11, 2013, 11:43:09 AM
DarrellC:  As you can tell, there are many ways to do a thinning and benefit the stand.  Two things I would like to comment on;  the wind issue and your "notch".  Hard to tell for sure, but it appears in the pic two trees may have had their top blown out in the past, one on the right edge, one in the middle, about 30? feet up.  I would remove trees within range of your planned structure.  And secondly, you indicated maybe "take some logs to the mill".  Leave the wood on the log, not the stump. Make your "face cut" (notch) on the bole below the level where your "back cut" will be.  Every little bit counts in scale.  Happy cutting!

There are a few trees that have double tops. Is having the top blown off what causes double tops? 

I plan on making sure there are no trees that can hit the house or septic system.  With my luck one of those pointed branches would penetrate the leech field pipe.

I actually have an EZ boardwalk jr. saw mill that I bought after I had already cleared the lot.  The red pine seems to make good 2x4 and 2x6s.

BradMarks

High winds are a likely cause, particularly when numerous trees have multiple tops at the same height.  Genetic makeup of the tree could come into play, and don't rule out the 'critter community'!  Out here porcupines and some gray squirrels enjoy feasting at the 4-6" diameter in the tops of pine trees, girdling and killing the tops, creating "pitchforks" when they grow back.  Just for curiosity: Any porky's in your neck of the woods?

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