Battery vs corded electric chainsaw

[Rhodemont]

I am going to be using a Jig from the t-Rex fastener supplier to hold a chainsaw for cutting oak timbers and rafters for my post and beam build.  Biggest beams are 8 x 12 so planning on a 16 inch bar since 14 would be close.  Not going to use a gas powered because starting would be too much to deal with at cut time.  Therefore looking at electric.  Being oak the home owner units are not likely to do get it done so need to move up to more power professional models.  Do the corded units put out more power than for example the battery Sthil CB-220.  Advantage of battery is it could be used around the mill but not my priority.
Thoughts?

[Andries]

. . .  Being oak the home owner units are not likely to do get it done so need to move up to more power professional models. . .

I'd stay away from the corded saws, they're getting to be antiquated. Power is lower, but so is the price. In their day, though, they served a really good purpose, especially in enclosed areas.
You mention the Stihl CB-220, which produces about the same power as a gas Stihl 201T, which we us as tree climber's saws. You can get a lot done with that little saw.

That's a reasonable amount of power to do your post/beam cuts, until you mentioned oak beams. Which makes the 'power needed factor' go up a lot for an electric saw.

Give a look at the Stihl MSA 300 C-O. Power is decent and it runs a nice sharp, small chain, good for battery life. Also, the tRex system seems to do a lot of plunge cutting for blade connectors. Get yourself a Stihll 2'n1 sharpener and learn to keep your chain super sharp. Your batteries will last longer and your cuts will be much smoother.
We own and have experience with DeWalt and Milwaukee battery saws - and you're right. Get a pro-level saw for this.
Let us know how you do, and good luck.

[Riwaka]

The Husqvarna 542i XP battery saw is not far off coming on the market. It has a clutch. The saw could have more momentum than a non clutch saw.
The maximum bar appears to be 15 inch.

The Husqvarna 540XP battery saw(can run a 16 inch bar) has been on the market for a few years now. If you don't require the longer bars the Stihl 300 electric battery saw can run, then the Husky 540 could be a good starting point. 

[Dave Shepard]

I know the Milwaukee M18 chainsaw will do what you want. I'm sure there is a Stihl model that will, also.

[21incher]

Prazi makes a chainsaw attachment for sidewinder type saws that may be a little  more durable then the cheap electric chainsaws.  

[Ianab]

One of the Good battery chainsaws will do the job. Stihl / Husky / Milwaulkee etc. I see this months local Stihl flyer had a saw, 4 batteries and a multi charger as a combo deal. Not cheap, but you could work all day with that. The saws have the grunt of maybe a 40-50cc gas saw, so dealing with a 12" oak beam shouldn't be a problem, and because your use is intermittent, the battery will last for hours, while the spare is on charge. 

Corded chainsaws were a thing, when battery and motor tech wasn't up to it. 

[Dave Shepard]

I used a 316L Husqvarna corded chainsaw a lot in the shop. I think today's battery models are as good, or better, without the cord.

[Magicman]

Simply stated for safety reasons, I would not want a 120volt corded tool on my sawing site. 

[Rhodemont]

I stopped in the Stihl dealer (Hardware Store) in town on the way back from the Post Office.  Wanted to pick up and feel a MS 300.  They did not have any, no, chainsaws of any kind in stock.  I spoke to the owner who I have known for a long time.  He said Stihl now makes him place a min dollar order to bring in equipment and Stihl defines what he can get.  So right now he has a lot of trimmers, edgers, gloves, helmets, etc on the shelf and can not afford a new order to get some saws until all the other stock gets sold.  I can order it on line with Stihl for pick up at the store but he does not make anything and I do not get farm tax exemption.

[DHansen]

I have a 540i XP can buck up 12" Red Oak for 1.5 to 2.0 hours on a battery charge.  4 to 6 hours on 5" stuff.  Very smooth finished cut with a Oregon Nano Chain or the 23 Husqvarna chain.  Narrow kerf.  Convenient and quiet.  Roughly .07 cents U.S. per charge.  Works about as good as a 338XP.  I know I can get more work done with a 50cc saw than what the 540i can do.  But it depends on what you are using it for.  I am happy with the 540i and glad to have it.  But its not going to win any cookie cutting contest.

[Al_Smith]

All I have in battery is a little micro saw typical Pacific rim design because most of them are just a different color .I basically live in the woods with a 600 foot driveway lined with silver and red maple .Those are self pruners because every stiff wind that blows knocks out the limbs . That's were those micros really shine. They are not oak slayers but on little stuff really handy .One battery in the little saw and one on the charger .so far never ran out of juice . 

[Brucer]

My MSA 300 C-O is equivalent to my MS 261 (50 cc) saw. It's significantly faster than my MSA 220.

I'm still learning the tricks to getting maximum battery life. As Andries says, keeping the chain super sharp is critical. Another point -- never push the saw to the point where it starts to bog down. If you do that with an electric motor, you'll start turning battery life into heat instead of wood chips.

If you need to keep the saw running for long stretches, go for the bigger AL-500 battery charger. It's significantly faster than the AL-300.

Cost of saw, charger, and 2 batteries is not for the faint of heart. Close to 2-1/2 times as expensive as the gas powered MS 261.

[Rhodemont]

I keep coming back to the MSA 300 in my search.  They price is hefty but with all the time and effort going into the build I do not want any problems getting good cuts on the oak over a couple hundred dollars.

[realzed]

I stopped in the Stihl dealer (Hardware Store) in town on the way back from the Post Office.  Wanted to pick up and feel a MS 300.  They did not have any, no, chainsaws of any kind in stock.  I spoke to the owner who I have known for a long time.  He said Stihl now makes him place a min dollar order to bring in equipment and Stihl defines what he can get.  So right now he has a lot of trimmers, edgers, gloves, helmets, etc on the shelf and can not afford a new order to get some saws until all the other stock gets sold.  I can order it on line with Stihl for pick up at the store but he does not make anything and I do not get farm tax exemption.

I stopped in at one of my local dealers the other day to pick up a bit of canned gas and shopped around at the chainsaw racks.
There was a 300 parked on the shelf below a 261.. Cost of the 261 was $825 and if I recall the 300 was something like $1000 or close to $1100!
I asked at the desk when I was paying for the gas how much for a battery for the 300 and was told $500 or so.. Does that come with a charger? NOPE another $250.. 
I said if I was off in the bush far away from a power outlet I would need a 2nd battery likely and the response was - Yup likely a real good idea..
SO add it all up - $1000 in batteries, $250 for charger, $1100 for the saw.
You can buy a ton of gas and premix for the $1500+ difference.
They might be neat and maybe a fashionable thing to have to display for friends, but not in my lifetime!

[beenthere]

Yup., Life is full of choices for sure. 

[Al_Smith]

------- here I sit a dinosaur who seldom ponies up more than  $100 for a saw .Saying that though I have some dandies . Can you imagine 500 bucks for a battery ? For that it should be large enough to start a D9 caterpillar not some dinky little thing to run a chainsaw ,good grief .

[DHansen]

I am not promoting the electric saw market, but I view the cost of the battery like prepaying for fuel.  If you do your part and take care of the battery it will pay for itself over time.  But the saw has to be able to perform and do the work you need to do with it.  Weigh the pros and cons.  It will be a different situation for most.  

[Dave Shepard]

I have a ton of M18 batteries, so it was not a big deal to run the M18 chainsaw. Something to consider if you already have battery tools. 

[21incher]

Enough  batteries mean nothing if the duty cycle of the saw isn't 100% for long cuts like that. With my m18 saw long cuts require12 ah batteries so it doesn't shut down and make the battery 1st and third light blink until reset at high duty cycles.

[Andries]

21incher: I believe that Dave Shepard was referring to the battery brand rather than the number of batteries he could cycle through the saw in one session.
Buying your first battery tools will set up brand loyalty. It becomes obvious after buying a driver, drill, sander, jig saw and a few more - the DanG batteries/chargers are a bigger investment than the tools. DHansen said it well; you're paying it forward for the gas. 
I'll always grab the DeWalt saw and a couple of batteries if I'm going out on the quad for firewood. Cruise the back trails with the dog running along, filling a trailer with "one split" birch with a super light, super quiet saw is my idea of living right.
It's no big controversy; use the best suited tool for the work at hand.

[21incher]

21incher: I believe that Dave Shepard was referring to the battery brand rather than the number of batteries he could cycle through the saw in one session.
Buying your first battery tools will set up brand loyalty. It becomes obvious after buying a driver, drill, sander, jig saw and a few more - the DanG batteries/chargers are a bigger investment than the tools. DHansen said it well; you're paying it forward for the gas.
I'll always grab the DeWalt saw and a couple of batteries if I'm going out on the quad for firewood. Cruise the back trails with the dog running along, filling a trailer with "one split" birch with a super light, super quiet saw is my idea of living right.
It's no big controversy; use the best suited tool for the work at hand.

With the more powerful saws, it's not number of batteries  that counts. It the size needed to handle high discharge rates I find. To achieve high discharge rates caused by long cuts it takes bigger heavier batteries  that are not used in most other tools. You will fry the small batteries quickly on the more powerful saws. My Dewalt 12 inch 20v saw was used once and hangs on the wall.

[Dave Shepard]

Biggest beams are 8x12. That's no problem for the M18. Any xc or the new Forge batteries still work. I only suggest it because it's much cheaper to get into an M18 saw than what was quoted for the Stihl setup, especially if someone already had some Milwaukee tools.

[Ianab]

Duty cycle is just that, what % of the time is the saw running? If you are processing firewood, then your duty cycle is high, maybe 75%. So if a saw isn't rated for 100% use, you could get an overheat / shutdown. Now with trimming up beams, realistically it's going to take ~30 secs to make a cut? Then several minutes to set up for the next one. Now your duty cycle is only 20%, and if a tool can't handle that, then it's junk.  A larger battery will of course help with that, as it can supply the current for longer before it gets hot. 

Also in that scenario, the instant start of the electric is a big plus. Some cuts it's going to take longer to start a gas saw than make the cut.  

Buying your first battery tools will set up brand loyalty

This is true. It's quite normal to end up with 5 tools, 3 batteries and 2 chargers. If you are building, then the M18 series tools probably makes sense. You will want a drill / sander / circ saw etc. 

[Al_Smith]

Batteries in general no matter what the usage is often debated .I have a bunch of 18 volt Dewalt plus the tools simply because they were free .
I also have a battery golf cart that set me back a kings ransome of 50 whole dollars .Of course I had to do a lot of work on it .The "country club  "  set would have used lithium batteries to the tune of about $2,000 .Not old Al the tight wad .I used 3 size 27 12 volt marine deep cycle batteries for $129 a pop .It won't go 40-50 miles on a charge but I only have to charge it about 3 hours once every two weeks .Just depends on what you want to do and how deep your pockets are IMO.

[21incher]

Is there  a link to the jig? I was envisioning a lot of longer cutting for tennons and pockets that must be accurate and smooth.  Probably bar and chain would be critical as part of the plan.

[Dave Shepard]

Duty cycle is just that, what % of the time is the saw running? If you are processing firewood, then your duty cycle is high, maybe 75%. So if a saw isn't rated for 100% use, you could get an overheat / shutdown. Now with trimming up beams, realistically it's going to take ~30 secs to make a cut? Then several minutes to set up for the next one. Now your duty cycle is only 20%, and if a tool can't handle that, then it's junk.  A larger battery will of course help with that, as it can supply the current for longer before it gets hot.

Also in that scenario, the instant start of the electric is a big plus. Some cuts it's going to take longer to start a gas saw than make the cut. 

Buying your first battery tools will set up brand loyalty

This is true. It's quite normal to end up with 5 tools, 3 batteries and 2 chargers. If you are building, then the M18 series tools probably makes sense. You will want a drill / sander / circ saw etc.

17 tools, 11 batteries, and 9 chargers. That's just M18. I also have M12.

[Andries]

Well Dave, I'd say you're committed.   
Eleven batteries will do that right?
I bought DeWalt a long time ago ( back in the days of NiCd) and have stayed with yellow and black ever since.
I just can't see going back to corded tools on a normal jobsite. 
Unless it's a timber frame project with chain mortiser, 16" beam saws and 11" planers.

[BillyTheKid]

As 21incher asked, is there a link to the jig? I have some timber framing set for this summer with a customer and am interested in a jig.

My two cents on the question of a saw: I also have the Milwaukee M18 with the number 12 battery. It's okay for light/moderate cutting. I am hoping to use it and the recently-acquired gas-powered Husq 540 xp for the job. My job will be outside so gas is okay.  However, the convenience of battery saws is hard to beat for small cuts, etc.

[DHansen]

Since you have a 540XP gas, The 540i XP would be very similar.  I attached a photo of the cut for the 12" red oak.  Can cut stuff this diameter for 1.5 to 2.0 hours of steady work.  One charge of the BLi300 battery will last as long as one tank of gas/oil in a 338XP.  Very smooth surface cut, better wood surface condition than a jig saw.  I have a 535iFR clearing saw that used the same battery and charger, so this made sense for my needs.  I looked at the Stihl, and if the batteries would have been the same as the other Stihl battery yard equipment, I already have I would have with the Stihl 300. 

ADDED: I may have misunderstood.  The OP may not have a 540xp, but BillyTheKid does.

[Rhodemont]

Connext Post and Beam   https://ctpostandbeam.com/ is the company I am working with.  The Web site has all the connectors, tools, and videos.  Pete, who passed last year uses a corded Stihl in several of the videos but is cutting pine. 

I am going with the MSA 300 C-O with 18" bar battery and charger at $1299.  Sawed the last 8x12 yesterday.  The log was a but (which all the 8x12 are from) at 16' long.  Beam need be 12' 8" so took out my MS362 to trim back the flared end a couple feet making it easier to saw.  The 362 works hard in those but ends.  So, after sawing I took another cut on the same end of the 8x12.  Much easier but the 362 is working.  With the time and effort and overall cost of this project the extra $ above other units suggested will not be important if I get straight even notches and ends.  

Dave I did look at the M18 on line but would want to see one run and do not have other Milwaukee battery tools.

[21incher]

I put this video together  a couple weeks ago about cutting firewood with my m18 saws. The pile is 3 rows deep now with anything under 16 inches cut with my m18 saws. I have about 30 m18 batteries now and 22 dewalt batteries with most 6 ah or more. I started with  Dewalt OPE to replace gas machines but they underperformed and had poor ergonomics.  Now have switched to all Milwaukee and love everyone of them. Last year the 16 Inch saw cut almost  this much also so I think they will last. The chains are not real sharp in the video because I hadn't  sharpened them since starting. It wasn't cheap, but well worth not dealing with gas or fumes. Also have many other m18 and m12  tools along with some Dewalts that are older and better  made then their newer tools.

[21incher]

This is an older one when I first started switching over 

[BillyTheKid]

Thanks for posting link of Connext Post and Beam. I watched the videos and looked over the tools. Very affordable. I have several mini mill saw guides that are similar to the Connext system. Yes, the cuts are very smooth and accurate as the video says. Although I'm a seasoned log builder, I haven't done any timber framing yet. So I was wondering how to make some of the cuts and attach some of the posts. Now I know. Very helpful!

[21incher]

For just cutting slots for those plates and ends, I bet a Harbor Freight 18 inch battery saw would be good enough without much investment.  I was thinking mortise and tennons that would tax a saw. 

[Rhodemont]

Ouch $.  The MSA 300 C-O is in the shop with a battery and charger.  I plan to start the build in a couple weeks so will pic and post the set up and saw in action.

[Rhodemont]

I just read through the MSA300 manual.  A bit disappointed with the dealer.  The saw has a power level function.  ECO, Avg, Max power.  He showed me how to adjust with the touch button.  Thing is he had a 500 battery in the saw to demonstrate. Talking with him I purchased a 300 battery since this saw will not be for continuous cutting and therefore a couple extra minutes run time is not an issue.  The power control only works with the 500 battery.  Not sure it will matter much for my need but still disappointed.  I did purchase the 500 charger because it works with the 300 battery and if I ever get a new battery (a 500) I am all set.  

[DHansen]

What chain are you running on the MSA300?   Let us know about battery life between recharging.  

[Rhodemont]

This is the set up it came with 

[realzed]

I just read through the MSA300 manual.  A bit disappointed with the dealer.  The saw has a power level function.  ECO, Avg, Max power.  He showed me how to adjust with the touch button.  Thing is he had a 500 battery in the saw to demonstrate. Talking with him I purchased a 300 battery since this saw will not be for continuous cutting and therefore a couple extra minutes run time is not an issue.  The power control only works with the 500 battery.  Not sure it will matter much for my need but still disappointed.  I did purchase the 500 charger because it works with the 300 battery and if I ever get a new battery (a 500) I am all set. 

Have you tried out the 300 actually yet with the 300 battery?
The reason I ask this is, when I was curious and asking about pricing etc. just as a comparison in my own mind to that of a 261CM, the guy behind the counter stated "the battery is extra and that's a 500 series version and that's the only size for that model and one is $500"..
Maybe he was wrong in stating that - but he seemed pretty adamant about it, but since I was only 'kicking tires', I didn't ask any more details regarding the battery or even a charger for the $250 cost he offered..

[Brucer]

The Stihl AP500s battery is the same size as the AP300s, weighs 10% more, has 20% more charge capacity, and is physically and electrically compatible with all the tools in Stihl's professional line. Most important, though, is that the 500 battery can deliver more current than the 300. That's why the 500 is recommended for the bigger saw.

The MSA300 has 3 speed settings as Rhodemont said, but it will limit you to  the ECO mode if you put an MSA300 battery in it. That's because the higher speeds draw more current than the 300 will deliver.

For most of my cutting with the MSA300 I'm using the second speed setting. It's a good balance of cutting speed and charge life. The ECO mode is much more efficient (less current = less heat = less energy waste) -- very useful when you're trying to stretch out the battery life to finish a job.

When I bought my MSA300, my dealer warned me that the 300 batteries I already owned wouldn't be adequate for the bigger saw so I knew what I was getting into.

Rhodemont, in your shoes I would complain suggest to the dealer that he should have warned you about the limitations of the 300 batteries and perhaps he should let you trade in the 300 battery and credit the price toward a 500 battery.

[Rhodemont]

I have run the saw with the 300 battery to learn how to operate it but have not yet cut anything with it.  I have a few more timbers to saw, the rain to stop and some bit warmer weather before I start cutting to length and notching for the build.  I do plan to practice before hand which will be the first cuts.  I expect the 300 battery to make the cuts and I do not need long run time so I may or may not talk with the dealer.

[realzed]

When I wrote "the guy behind the counter stated "the battery is extra and that's a 500 series version and that's the only size for that model and one is $500"..":
Maybe I was misquoting him in that he meant to say "the 500 series battery is the only 'proper' size for that model of saw"..
Sounds like a 300 series is just one to get by with and the 500 version comes with the proper features that allow the saw to be utilized in the 3 modes as it is meant to be, and for as long as it can be per charge - IF the buyer or user can or wants to absorb the extra costs for the features and time it brings with it as an upgrade..

[Ron Scott]

I would go with one of the battery chainsaws over an electric saw. The new battery saws have come a long way in quality and battery operating time. Husky has both a homeowner and professional model. The homeowner model is quite efficient for general saw use.

[Ianab]

I'd suggest that ANY battery tool with only one battery is at some point going to lead to frustration. I can see why Stihl bundle the basic battery, because Sticker Shock, and the lower spec battery will probably get the job done in the majority of use cases. Think gardening / fencing / building etc. Where you do need a small (and reliable) chainsaw, but only for minutes over the course of the day. Depending on the actual use, a 2nd (larger) battery may be on the shopping list. 

[terrifictimbersllc]

Rhodemont, I wish I had seen this thread earlier. I have a (corded) Stihl MSE220, about a $500 saw 10 yrs ago, that I use sometimes to process firewood in my front yard, to reduce my noise footprint. I use it with a 50 ft 10 ga extension cord.  I would have been happy to loan it to you to try out.

It has a 3/8 .050 18" bar and I have no trouble cutting most hardwoods I bring home sometimes up to 24". I cant saw as fast with it as my MS461 but I think it would easily handle joint cutting for timber framingat whatever pace one wanted to make the cuts.

That being said a big enough cordless would be great too. I have the stihl 200 that uses the AP300+ battery and the battery run time is almost never limiting  for me (if I remember to charge it up so it is ready for the next time). More limiting is the need to resharpen the chain, and the wear life of that skinny chain.  Your .325 chain will perform better sharpening and wear life wise.

[esteadle]

So I think you're far better off with a corded electric than any battery saw. 

A Stihl 300 is going for 1200. Corded saws go for less than 100 and as low as 60 on Amazon. So you can buy a dozen corded saws for 1 battery saw. Stihl says these saws have about the power of the MS270, which per manuals is running around 2.6kw (2600 watts).


A corded saw will draw 12-15 amps so 1500 - 1800 watts, so you're not losing that much. Plus, never need to charge it and the battery won't be wearing down over time and use and shortening your run time.

The most important feature of any saw is a sharp blade. The sharpness of blades on battery saws is not any better than any other type.