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Woodland mills, TimberKing or Woodmizer

Started by Crookedkut, May 12, 2019, 10:29:15 PM

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Crookedkut

I am thinking about get a sawmill.   I was thinking of building my own also but I have not decided.  Currently I have the Alaskan Chainsaw mill and wanted to upgrade to the sawmill.   Timberking is offering 6 months no interest, no payments.  That is tempting but they are a bit higher in price.  From your experience,with of these three brands would you recommend.  

Southside

What sort of features are you looking at?  What size logs do you plan to saw? What do you plan to produce?  Will you be stationary or portable?  What do you have for support equipment?  You need to look at YOUR scenario and see what is the best fit.  
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

Crookedkut

Quote from: Southside on May 12, 2019, 10:31:47 PM
What sort of features are you looking at?  What size logs do you plan to saw? What do you plan to produce?  Will you be stationary or portable?  What do you have for support equipment?  You need to look at YOUR scenario and see what is the best fit.  
I would like to have a mobile platform but if I cannot afford it I will have to settle for a stationary one.   I don't really follow when you say what support equipment do I have.  Most trees around here are not wider than 24 inches.  There are a few but not many.  

randy d

I recently had the pleasure of having a conversation with Wil Johnson president of TimberKing and am sure that if you buy a TK. He will give the very best service that can be given. I own a WoodMizer and it to is a great sawmill the reason I own a WM. is because  we have a dealer less than 50 miles away. I have zero dealings with WoodLand mills so can't say either way. Good luck on your purchase. Randy

Southside

Support equipment being the way you are going to move logs and lumber. IE skid steer, loader, three men and a small child...
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

Revival Sawmill


YellowHammer

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Dana Stanley

I own a Woodland Mills, and it is a fine hobby/part time machine. A quality product, but if I had the money I would have a Wood Mizer. Only It would need to be able to meet the specs of the biggest Woodland Mills. Look at width, and depth of cut, how big of a cant, and HP when you compare models! my 126 will only cut 7" depth I believe most WM will cut deeper.
Making Sawdust, boards and signs.
Woodland Mills HM-126
Kabota B-7800 with backhoe and loader
Ford Ranger, Husqvarna 455 20", Mac 610 24", other chainsaws 14", 23 ton log splitter
Matthew 3:10

ladylake


 The TK 1200 handles  a 33" log, 29" between the guide rollers, 16" clearance above the blade. Compare those before you buy.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Bolson400

I've got an old TimberKing (about 20 yrs old). I've had some problems with it but I know that once I get those worked out it will be a solid mill. Sounds like they've done nothing but get better with their mills. A brand new mill from one of the major companies is going to be a good machine no matter what. I also haven't looked at prices of the new ones, but I'm not sure the TK2000 compares to the LT40 and TK1600 to the LT35. So if TK is higher, it may be because it's not comparing apples to apples. I'm still pretty new and there are a lot of people on here with more experience. Sure is a lot of hype for the Woodmizer though. I got caught up in the older Toyota is the ONLY quality truck out there, and it turns out there are plenty of old pickups out there that are cheaper, bigger, stronger, just as reliable, get similar MPG, and go just as far as Toyota. Also, from what I hear WM has great customer service. From experience, TK has GREAT customer service.

Pabene

When I am looking at the three Mills I would buy ThimberKing. Why, because it is able to make cut deep in the log. Ladylake describes it better than me yesterday. If you want to cut a nice log to make furniture it is good to cut through the log, board by board, and let it all stay on the mill, then lift it off together. That way it is easy to keep track of how the boards was cut in the log. If you would like to "star saw" a log the best way, you need to be able to make the first cut some Inch below the pith. It is always better with a good distance from the blade up to the upper bladeguard, with the same width as max open blade guides.
It is more expensive to make a so good design like ThimberKings. Other mills has a beam or belt covers as prevents many usefull operations in the mill.

Cutting Edge


Crookedkut,

Even though you didn't have it in your list....

Have you looked at EZ Boardwalk ??  When comparing log capacity, engine hp, features, etc., might be worth giving them a look as well.

Good Luck in your search !
"Winning an argument isn't everything, as long as you are heard and understood" - W.S.


Cutting Edge Saw Service, LLC -
- Sharpening Services
- Portable/Custom Milling and Slabbing
- On-Site Sawmill Maintenance/Repair Services

Factory Direct Kasco WoodMaxx Blades
Ph- (304) 878-3343

thecfarm

Thomas has a good mill too. But you are along ways from Maine. They had a wide mill for years. I almost bought one about 10 years ago. A Thomas is built tough.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

timbercrack

I cannot speak to Woodland mills (never been near one), But have worked with TK and WM. Both fine machines with excellent customer service. I personally own a 2009 TK1600 with auto log roller and love it. Reason I own it is because it came up for sale used only 10 miles away from me, and my brother used to own one so I had already had a lot of experience with this particular machine...
Timberking 1600 owner.

crowhill

As you read the replies you'll see it pretty much comes down to what you will be sawing, what you have for a budget, what happens to come on the market near you, what you need for mobility and how close you want to be to your dealer. I think they are all good mills, most have good service, many folks do their own maintenance, some have service provided and there's only one person the mill has to satisfy. I bought my TimberKing B20 used in 2002 because it had, at the time everything I needed. TimberKing service has been great, pretty easy to work on and has held up well. I think if you're looking for high volume sawing you will need look at your handling equipment and layout of such around your mill. Good luck!
TimberKing B-20, Kubota M-4900 w/FEL with tooth bar, hyd thumb and forks, Farmi winch, 4 chain saws.

tule peak timber

Make sure that the support you will be needing is there..................................
persistence personified - never let up , never let down

Crookedkut

Quote from: Southside on May 13, 2019, 07:49:13 AM
Support equipment being the way you are going to move logs and lumber. IE skid steer, loader, three men and a small child...

I don't have any of this support equipment besides me moving the logs.     I appreciate all the advice from all of you.   I will think on all of it and decide. 

Southside

You really need to consider some means of moving logs as part of your decision.  It can be as simple as a log arch from Logrite - sponsor in the left column, if your logs are of a manageable size and you have a way to get them onto your mill.  You are going to need something as the mill is only one part of the equation unless you are going to only do portable sawing for others and have them supply the necessary handling equipment.  
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

Magicman

You have indicated that you could possible do some portable sawing in the future and also considering the size of your logs, I would absolutely recommend getting a hydraulic mill.  With this in mind, I would be giving a Wood-Mizer LT35 some serious consideration.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Crookedkut

Quote from: Southside on May 14, 2019, 11:12:04 AM
You really need to consider some means of moving logs as part of your decision.  It can be as simple as a log arch from Logrite - sponsor in the left column, if your logs are of a manageable size and you have a way to get them onto your mill.  You are going to need something as the mill is only one part of the equation unless you are going to only do portable sawing for others and have them supply the necessary handling equipment.  

I looked at Logrite.  I like that idea.  All aluminum is a good way to go.  

SawyerTed

There's a lot of brand loyalty here.  It's like asking Chevy, Ford or Ram pickup truck?  All have pluses and minuses and some will say buy a Toyota or Nissan.  You have to pick what suits you.  The mills you mention all have pluses and minuses.  

Be careful about the "bigger is better" mentality.  You can buy a larger capacity sawmill and waste money on capacity you rarely use.  Sure I get offered the occasional log larger than 36" that I turn down but the majority of the logs I get are 24" or less.  I don't have a market for wide live edge slabs.  

One aspect where bigger IS better is horsepower and torque.  Those 9hp sawmills do saw lumber but slowly.  25hp or more is better.  Diesel is even better but more costly.

The key is buying a mill to fit your situation.  Pick a mill that has a "sweet spot" for the most common log size and lumber you will saw.  If the largest typical diameter of logs is 24". Then buy a mill with enough capacity to handle those logs plus a little bit more (most will have that capacity and more).  What kind of lumber do you plan to make most often?  If it's is 1x, 2x and 4x, buy a mill that will do that plus a little bit more.  If you are cutting big thick slabs for bar tops and counters etc., buy a mill to do that.  If timber framing and beams are your thing, buy a mill well suited for that.

If you are planning on doing portable sawing, hydraulics are a necessity unless you plan on dragging a skid steer or tractor to load logs.

Logs are heavy and difficult to move without equipment.  A pine log 24" diameter and 8' long is going to weigh 1,000 pounds or more depending upon species.  A white oak the same size will weigh at least 1,500 pounds.  Moving 10 or 15 of those a day by hand isn't easy.  Moving a 42" wide X 36" tall stack of green 2x8 lumber is a lot easier on the forks of a tractor, skid steer or fork lift.

The sawmill is only one piece of the equation, support equipment and supporting tools also add up - like blades for the sawmill, chainsaw, leaf blower, cant hooks (yes you will likely need more than one) chain for moving logs, safety gear, tape measures, hammer, hatchet/axe and other tools.  You may already have most of the tools.  I found if I didn't dedicate tools to the sawmill, I had to go looking for my ______. 

We don't mean to discourage you, we've been in your shoes and have dealt with the realities of handling logs, lumber and waste slabs.  It is easy to lose interest when material handling is unnecessarily hard.  It is also discouraging to start sawing only to realize you don't have support tools handy.
Woodmizer LT50, WM BMS 250, WM BMT 250, Kubota MX5100, IH McCormick Farmall 140, Husqvarna 372XP, Husqvarna 455 Rancher

Crookedkut

Quote from: SawyerTed on May 14, 2019, 06:39:20 PM
There's a lot of brand loyalty here.  It's like asking Chevy, Ford or Ram pickup truck?  All have pluses and minuses and some will say buy a Toyota or Nissan.  You have to pick what suits you.  The mills you mention all have pluses and minuses.  

Be careful about the "bigger is better" mentality.  You can buy a larger capacity sawmill and waste money on capacity you rarely use.  Sure I get offered the occasional log larger than 36" that I turn down but the majority of the logs I get are 24" or less.  I don't have a market for wide live edge slabs.  

One aspect where bigger IS better is horsepower and torque.  Those 9hp sawmills do saw lumber but slowly.  25hp or more is better.  Diesel is even better but more costly.

The key is buying a mill to fit your situation.  Pick a mill that has a "sweet spot" for the most common log size and lumber you will saw.  If the largest typical diameter of logs is 24". Then buy a mill with enough capacity to handle those logs plus a little bit more (most will have that capacity and more).  What kind of lumber do you plan to make most often?  If it's is 1x, 2x and 4x, buy a mill that will do that plus a little bit more.  If you are cutting big thick slabs for bar tops and counters etc., buy a mill to do that.  If timber framing and beams are your thing, buy a mill well suited for that.

If you are planning on doing portable sawing, hydraulics are a necessity unless you plan on dragging a skid steer or tractor to load logs.

Logs are heavy and difficult to move without equipment.  A pine log 24" diameter and 8' long is going to weigh 1,000 pounds or more depending upon species.  A white oak the same size will weigh at least 1,500 pounds.  Moving 10 or 15 of those a day by hand isn't easy.  Moving a 42" wide X 36" tall stack of green 2x8 lumber is a lot easier on the forks of a tractor, skid steer or fork lift.

The sawmill is only one piece of the equation, support equipment and supporting tools also add up - like blades for the sawmill, chainsaw, leaf blower, cant hooks (yes you will likely need more than one) chain for moving logs, safety gear, tape measures, hammer, hatchet/axe and other tools.  You may already have most of the tools.  I found if I didn't dedicate tools to the sawmill, I had to go looking for my ______.

We don't mean to discourage you, we've been in your shoes and have dealt with the realities of handling logs, lumber and waste slabs.  It is easy to lose interest when material handling is unnecessarily hard.  It is also discouraging to start sawing only to realize you don't have support tools handy.


Thanks for the advice.  It is not discouraging.  This is what I need to know.   While I am not new to building wood projects I am new to saw milling and am eager to learn.  I do not live in an area that is dense with timber.   South Texas has its 24 inch logs but not very much bigger.  Usually mesquite, oak or ash.  I may have access to some cedar but it is limited.   I wish I could say I have the money and am going to buy cash but I may have to finance it.   I am just hesitant on the financing idea.   I want to expand to do more wood projects and eventually get away from our t-shirt business.  

Crookedkut

I just saw a video of the Wood Mizer LT15GO.  It looks like a model I would be interested in.  I can cut some wide diameter logs and it is portable.   The price is not too bad.   Gonna ponder on it a while and later decide.   I like the Timber King models but they a bit higher in price.   I am not saying they are not worth the price.  I just cannot see myself affording a mill at that price right now.  

ladylake

  If you are going to be cutting bigger logs get one with more capacity.   Way too many logs are over 28".  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Southside

It would be time well spent to go and spend a day with a sawyer who has s mill similar to what you are interested in. I would highly suggest finding one with and one without hydraulics so you have first hand knowledge of just what the difference is. 

A 4 minute video just does not give you a realistic view of what sawing for 4,6 or 8 hours is really like. 
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

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