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2" x 6" 3/16" thick okay for mill?

Started by esarratt, February 20, 2024, 08:15:17 PM

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esarratt

I want to build a trailer for my 29' Norwood Lumbermate.

I found some 24' long 2" x 6" 3/16" thick steel for sale.  Would this be a good size?



 

Ljohnsaw

John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

esarratt

The steel is "used".  Is there any way to check it for straightness?  I have a rotating laser level.  I can also run a sting line.  Other suggestions?

Here is what they said: "Steel salvaged from a car commercial shoot. Stored inside now, mild surface rust on all pieces, some weld scars on the 2x6 rec tube."

Ianab

Quote from: esarratt on February 21, 2024, 01:43:16 AMIs there any way to check it for straightness?
Mk 1 eyeball?

Get down and look along the beam. You can pick up any serious bend, and if you can't see the bend, it probably doesn't matter. 
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

Don P

Rotate a couple of sticks beside each other and line them up side by each. One way my bowed boards nestle together, the opposite way they show double the bow.

esarratt

What is a good trailer length for the mill (Norwood LM29)?  The beams I am looking at are 24'.

The guy has additional 2" x 6" 3/16" for sale that I can buy for cross bracing if I use the whole 24'.

Ljohnsaw

Never seen a mill bed that was too long! :thumbsup:

Using the full 24' will allow you to cut somewhere in the 20-21' log length (need a place to park the head). Being 24' plus the tongue will make getting into tight places a challenge but not insurmountable.

Just make sure you have a lot of jacks to support it when cutting.  Probably 4 or 5 per side.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

esarratt

Quote from: Ljohnsaw on February 21, 2024, 08:56:07 PMNever seen a mill bed that was too long! :thumbsup:
Now that's what I was thinking!


Quote from: Ljohnsaw on February 21, 2024, 08:56:07 PMJust make sure you have a lot of jacks to support it when cutting.  Probably 4 or 5 per side.
Thanks!  I'll probably go 5.

esarratt

Quote from: Ljohnsaw on February 21, 2024, 08:56:07 PMUsing the full 24' will allow you to cut somewhere in the 20-21' log length (need a place to park the head). Being 24' plus the tongue will make getting into tight places a challenge but not insurmountable.

Now that I look at the numbers, 20'-21' does seem a little small.  Just curious, does anyone ever put removable extensions on trailerable mills?  Or is getting the bed alignment right an issue?

esarratt

Another question: I notice cooks uses 3" x 6" beams instead of the 2" x 6" beams I am looking at.

Should I just do more cross bracing?  I do realize that I will also have the cross bracing of the Norwood on top of the beams.

Ljohnsaw

Re: Removable Extensions
When I was milling a 49' beam, I added a 5 foot lightweight angle iron extension on each end of my mill. Supported and leveled by a pair of car scissor jacks each end. That gave a parking place for the head and allowed for full use of the bed. No log bunks out there, not needed.

Re: Cross Bracing
How far apart are you planning on the braces? If you put them every 6 feet, that would require 5 of them and would line up with you jack spacing as well. How wide are you making the track? If you divide that into a 24 foot stick, maybe get one more cross brace? That is, six braces at 4 foot. My mill track is 42" and I wish I went wider.

Re: Track Attachment
You didn't ask but I give input anyway. :wink_2:
I welded mine and got a smile in my rail. Ends are 1/8" to 1/4" higher than the middle. You could weld the ends if you wish but I'd build in adjustability down the line. Could be as simple as a long bolt passing through your rail (angle iron on edge, no need to weld) and down through you 2x6 with nuts top and bottom. Then you can push or pull the rail up and down.

Re: Bunk Spacing
Again, didn't ask but...
Removable/adjustable spacing. Do that and you will always be able to support whatever.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

chet

I do exactly da same with extensions.  :thumbsup:  Mine are totally bolt on, and only take a few minutes to install and level.  
I am a true TREE HUGGER, if I didnt I would fall out!  chet the RETIRED arborist

esarratt

Quote from: Ljohnsaw on February 22, 2024, 12:04:23 PMRe: Removable Extensions
When I was milling a 49' beam, I added a 5 foot lightweight angle iron extension on each end of my mill. Supported and leveled by a pair of car scissor jacks each end. That gave a parking place for the head and allowed for full use of the bed. No log bunks out there, not needed.
Thanks!  That is easy.

esarratt

Quote from: Ljohnsaw on February 22, 2024, 12:04:23 PMRe: Cross Bracing
How far apart are you planning on the braces? If you put them every 6 feet, that would require 5 of them and would line up with you jack spacing as well.
I hadn't thought about it honestly.  Thanks!


esarratt

Quote from: Ljohnsaw on February 22, 2024, 12:04:23 PMHow wide are you making the track? If you divide that into a 24 foot stick, maybe get one more cross brace? That is, six braces at 4 foot. My mill track is 42" and I wish I went wider.
I am just putting my Norwood LM29 on a trailer to make is movable and to solve some alignment issues I have been having.

The LM29's specs are:

  • Maximum Log Diameter: 29 inches
  • Maximum Cant Width: 24 inches

Unless you guys know some trick that I don't to make it work wider....  I figured I needed to stick with the width of the bandsaw.

And, realistically, there isn't much wood I own that is bigger than 29"

esarratt

Quote from: chet on February 22, 2024, 12:20:56 PMI do exactly da same with extensions.  :thumbsup:  Mine are totally bolt on, and only take a few minutes to install and level. 
Thanks!  Bolt on it is.

esarratt

Quote from: Ljohnsaw on February 22, 2024, 12:04:23 PMRe: Bunk Spacing
Again, didn't ask but...
Removable/adjustable spacing. Do that and you will always be able to support whatever.
The spacing is set by Norwood, but I can fabricate something.  What do you recommend?

Ljohnsaw

My slight dyslexia and mild OCD took over. I got excited and I got into "Building a mill from scratch" mode. ffcheesy 

Disregard my comments on attaching the track.  Though it could be adapted to attaching you Norwood to the trailer so you don't pull it's bed down to any imperfections of the trailer frame. 

For user convenience, making the cross braces line up with the Norwood bunks makes the most sense.

Making the width the same as the Norwood also make the most sense.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Jack S

at this time i don't want to take any chances on messing up with trying to post pictures but if you go to my photo gallery you will find that I did just what you want to do. my Norwood is also a model 29.  used the same used tubing and  modified boat trailer axels. made it tandem not for weight but for a smoother ride no bounce like a single axel trailer. A lot of good solid advise from others but thought my pictures might help. adding the trailer was the best thing to add to a really nice mill.   

good luck with the build and I am willing to answer further questions you might have.  

  

esarratt

Quote from: Jack S on February 23, 2024, 11:45:58 AMat this time i don't want to take any chances on messing up with trying to post pictures but if you go to my photo gallery you will find that I did just what you want to do. my Norwood is also a model 29.  used the same used tubing and  modified boat trailer axels. made it tandem not for weight but for a smoother ride no bounce like a single axel trailer. A lot of good solid advise from others but thought my pictures might help. adding the trailer was the best thing to add to a really nice mill. 

good luck with the build and I am willing to answer further questions you might have. 

 

Mmmmmm.  Modified boat trailer axles.  Thanks!

Yeah, I had already thought tandem.  Just seemed like the right thing to do.

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