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Cable Length for Logging Winch

Started by Jim, January 17, 2004, 01:50:39 PM

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Corley5

The slides fit over the cable and are what you attach the chokers to.  As the name implies they slide up on down the cable ;).  Sometimes they're called bells and other things.  We used a snatch block once with ours to get a different angle on the pull.  We hooked it with a chain around tree off to one side to pull a big maple log up the hill and avoid the stump.
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

Bobvt

I find the snatch block extremely useful.  Long logs don't turn corners very well (swing around obstacles).   On average, I probably use it on every fifth or sixth tree I fall.  It seems there is always another tree in a direct line between the winch and the fallen tree.

I leave mine on the cable all the time (in back of the slides).

Bob

J_T

Use a open face block it won'get in your wayand can install in a second .
Jim Holloway

Bobvt

I got my 8 ton open face snatch block from

www.rnventions.com

Cost: $39.95

I also bought their tree saver strap.

Bob

Jim

That's great guys. Now I know what a snatch block looks like.

Frank_Pender

Welcome Jim, for the Forum.  sorry I am a little late in getting around to this thread site.  I hope your winch works out for you.  Careful of that hand.  You do not want to have a sawbons work on you any more than possible.  

Yes, the open block is always much easier to handle when doing an lot of setting of blocks.  

For my winch I took a winch off of a duce and a 1/2 US military truck and designed a 3 point system for it as well as attatched a small boom with a swinging grapple.  The firt job I used it on was a great time saver.  I set only one chocker in ten log truck loads. 8)
Frank Pender

Birk-man

Hello all,

I recently picked up a used Farmi JL 351 P.  I'm hoping to use it with a small Kubota (1979 185DT - 18HP) to thin timber on a steep 40 acre site in Oregon.  I know the tractor is small for this task, but I'm a patient guy and willing to throw more blocks into the system to maintain mechanical advantage & stay slower and (hopefully) safer.

After tracking down the user manual, I discovered that there are a few parts missing and that the cable is considerably shorter than the standard 165' it probably started with.

RE: The Cable -

I have a timber supply house in a neighboring town where I can get the 3/8" 6X25 cable for $0.65/ft.  I notice in the manual that the drum will hold 196' even though the unit comes standard with 165'.  The posts I've read here lead me to think sticking with the shorter length might save headaches with tangled cable in the long run. 

Is there any other type of cable that would be more suited to this purpose? 

Arguments for or against a cable longer than 165'?

RE: Missing parts -

The 'kick stand' is missing from my unit.  Before I learned from the manual that a stand existed, I had imagined fabricating a stand that would fit into the square receiver hole in the blade.  I suspect that the stand is missing because it did not hold up well - seems pretty light weight for the job.  Any suggestions for alternate stands or should I bite the bullet and order the replacement part?

The finger guard on the top pulley is missing.  Although it is described as a finger guard, I think it also prevents the sliders from being carried into the pulley & jamming.  This is a piece I think would be worth replacing with an EOM part.

One more question -

The cable on my unit was not threaded over the roller on the tensioning arm and, judging from the rust on the roller, I suspect that it was used this way most of the time.  Any arguments, pro or con, for by-passing the cable tensioning system the way the previous owner had this set up?

Thanks for your help and insight as I learn about this great tool.

Peter


Bro. Noble

As for length,  our local supplier has ready6 made skidder lines in 100' 150',  and 125'.  When we asked for 300', he couldn't understand why.  We put 300'  on our home made winch about 15 years ago.  With a 45 hp tractor and steep slopes,  we can't get close enough to some trees with a shorter line.  Sometimes if you lodge a tree,  you need to use a snatch block and pull it from the opposite direction which takes considerable more line.  A skidder can go on steeper slopes and run over all kinds of small timber to get to the tree so they don;t need as much cable.  After 15 years,  our cable has broken numerous times near the end where it gets the most wear.  We got to where we didn't have enough cable and started having to leave stuff till we got new cable.  I measured the old cable which was too short for us at 115'.  The supplier could only come up with 220' of cable and we need most of it at times.  After it breaks a few times,  we'll have to get a new one.

As for the tensioner,  I don't like them because it makes the cable a lot harder to pull out.  It is important that you don't have any slack in your line as you wind it in.  Slack will caused mashed cable and pinches that can't be pulled out by hand.  We run the cable between the two rollers,  but remove or loosen the tension springs.  You lcan drive up with your tractor to remove all slack before you start winching.
milking and logging and sawing and milking

Kodiakmac

Jim,

Your info says you live 'near Owen Sound.'  If you have the great misfortune to live in the District of Muskoka, you have until the 19th of February to get your logging done.  On that evening Muskoka Council is expected to pass the most restrictive tree-cutting by-law in Canada. 

If our American friends want to see what we're up against, have look at this:

http://muskoka.fileprosite.com/contentengine/Link.aspx?ID=8293&Direct=1

Robin Hood had it just about right:  as long as a man has family, friends, deer and beer...he needs very little government!
Kioti rx7320, Wallenstein fx110 winch, Echo CS510, Stihl MS362cm, Stihl 051AV, Wallenstein wx980  Mark 8:36

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