First of all I did a search here on the forum for WM outriggers and saw lots of threads about them.
I did read almost all of one that was four pages long, and almost all of one from 06 that was three pages long.
On my LT30HDG24 I have only five outriggers. I do use the balance system that several of the guys posted on the other threads to level up the mill.
And I have cut the top off one but not with a hack saw, and not on purpose ;D.
Setting up on un-level ground will get you every time.
My question was how do you clean out the sawdust and debris that get in there after you have lost your top cap?
One answer was on another thread to lift the mill up until you can slide it out the bottom and clean it out, and slide it back in. Another said to unbolt it from the frame.
I'm for the lift up idea, as I don't want to spend a lot of time un-bolting and bolting up. But I'm worried that if I pick up my mill on a chain with my fork lift or backhoe front bucket, that I run the risk of tipping it over.
I suppose I can lower the head all the way down to make it have a lower center of gravity. But I was wondering what else could I do to prevent it from tipping over?
If I raise up the back two, that's all I got back there, then move the head to the tail end of the mill the hitch end will go sky high. (That's one of those don't ask me how I know, type of things). And I most likely can slide out the front three and dump them out.
But what about emptying out the back two? If I slide the mill head all the way to the hitch end and lift the tail up to drop them out, I'm really risking it tipping over.
Maybe if no one has a good idea about doing this I could back the mill up onto some blocks to get it up in the air a little, I'm not sure about this idea. I tried that on one un-level site and the mill kept falling off the blocks when we rolled over a large log on the saw table.
Ok, so let's say I have my outriggers out of the tube on the mill, and cleaned out. Someone said there is a hole on the bottom to let the stuff drain out. I wasn't aware of that. I was thinking about increasing the size of this hole. If it is directly on the bottom then what would happen if I made it larger? I guess I'd have less metal pressing on the ground. Could I bore holes through the side of the tube right at the base plate to let the sawdust out? Has anyone done that?
Also, what can I do, or what have you done to stop the sawdust from getting into the outrigger. I bought some plastic caps from WM once for replacing those that were broken, but that was a long time ago, and those replacement ones are broken or gone now.
The sawdust in the tubes is beginning to get to be a problem on a couple of them as it does effect the pin, as mentioned in other threads.
Has anyone come up with a cheap or easy method to cap them?
Thanks for your advice.
Jim Rogers
Got an air compressor or a leaf blower, or a shop vac that you can turn into a blower? Rig a tube which you can hook to any of these that will go down the outrigger. And stand back at least put on glasses and hat. :) :) :)
I probably am the one that suggested just removing 4 bolts and emptying it out. I also once pointed out that there is a hole in the bottom of the outrigger.
I always use the WM caps and keep a couple of extras in the tool box. Without the caps, bark and other stuff larger than sawdust will fill the outriggers and it won't wash out of the bottom hole. After 10 years of sawing, it's about time to empty mine again.
Air Pressure or Water Pressure & new caps.
The hole in the bottom plate is about 1"!
foam the top so it has a semi permanent cap.
Get a shopvac and suck it out ;D ;D or buy the new ones that wm came out with and never have to deal with sawdust ever again , and leveling is easy, I love mine, time is money. happy sawing 8) 8) 8) 8)
Two of the new outriggers are on my want list.
1) Raise the outrigger, then take a piece of ready-rod (aka allthread) and push it up through the bottom hole. Work it around, run it up and down, and eventually most of the sawdust will come out.
2) Tape a piece of 1/2" ID vinyl tubing to the hose of a shopvac (you have to be creative here), but the hose on the blower side of the vac, push the tubing down through one of the jack holes, and let 'er rip. A good wide-brimmed hat might keep the sawdust out of your collar. You might need to do this several times if the sawdust is wet.
3) Buy a handful of new tops from WM. If a particular one keeps getting lost or breaking, try holding it on with duct tape.
4) On newer mills, the two middle outriggers on the main tube have an offset near the bottom that puts the "foot" under the main tube. The vertical part of the outrigger has a wide open bottom, so no buildup problems. The outrigger itself might fit in the mounting bracket, in which case you wouldn't have to buy the whole assembly.
5) The new fully adjustable outriggers don't collect sawdust -- I replaced the two on the ends of the mill.
I keep a few spare caps on hand to replace when one is destroyed. I use air to clean and occasionally a pressure washer. I usually put a small amount of epoxy on cap as i install. Works good for me. I installed a screw jack on hitch to assist with hookup an leveling.
Thanks for all your advice.
I'll try several of the methods mentioned and see which one I like best....
Jim
A Duct tape cap is cheap, easy to install and easy to replace but not too attractive.
My 2 cents
Pete
This is a problem that I have wrestled with for years, while trying to sleep at night. Finally thought of this.
Dig a hole in the ground, then position the outrigger over the hole so it can slide down and out.
Or use a set of "car ramps", you know, the kind some of us back yard mechanics use.
Put one in front of each of the wheels on the mill, then just drive ahead until the mill is at the top of the ramp.
Then after you're done with the back ones, back down off of the ramps, unhitch the mill from your tow vehicle and move the saw head to the rear of the mill and this will raise the front ones up so they can be removed and cleaned out.
i have tack welded 14 gauge mild steel on 3 of mine so far.
I use an air gun with a 24 inch piece of 3/16 steel brake line as an extension you can bend as required to get the debris out.
New caps ---- they're cheap
I use a water hose. Just pop the top off and stick the end of the hose down in side. Most all of it will float up over the top if you have enough water flow.
I did what Mr White suggested: Car ramps.
Weld a top on each and fuhgeddaboudit.
Well, I'm about to move the mill to a site to do a job of sawing some long logs for a timber frame addition and sheathing.
I was packing up the mill today to move it and I figured it was a good time to clean out some of my outriggers.
I opted for the lift up and lower them down and out method.
I hooked a chain onto my backhoe front bucket and lifted the hitch end up with the mill all packed up and ready to roll. The head was sitting down on the travel peg.
I lifted it up enough so that I could drop down the three front outriggers to clean them out.
Well I only cleaned out two, as the one near the hitch still has a cap on it and isn't full of sawdust.
The two near the first bed rail were missing their caps and full of sawdust.
So, I dropped them down and cleaned them out by turning them upside down and thumbing them on a plank next to my work area. I found the hole on the bottom, as mentioned, and ran the outrigger jack handle down through it to loosen up the packed sawdust.
This worked good, and guess what fell out. Three caps. I got two out of one and one out of the other.
They aren't in the greatest shape, one was split and none of them any any of the lips around the top that hold them to the top of the outrigger. But I figure I can now duck tape them to the outrigger top and hopefully they will work and keep the sawdust out.
Does anyone know where I can buy any orange duct tape? ;D :D
We of course I'm joking as the outriggers are black. So I guess I'll have to look for some black duct tape.
I know, I know, I have a can of black spray paint. I can use regular duct tape and spray it black and no one will know it..... yea that's the ticket....
I was thinking of lifting up the rear end and doing the same thing, but with my luck I'd flip the mill over and screw up my job coming on Monday.
I'm going to wait until I have this job done and then do it while the mill is hooked to my truck. Hopefully this will stop it from flipping over and keep it somewhat stable while I lift it up do drop out the back two outriggers.
I didn't take any pictures today, but I try and do that when I clean out the back ones.
Jim Rogers
Jim , when you have the mill hooked to the truck can you back the rear end over a ditch or something similer to be able to drop the rear out riggers down .This should eliminate the danger of tipping the mill . scouter Joe
Another idea too Jim!
Just unbolt it and take the complete outrigger off.
Only 4 bolts and "no risk"!
Quote from: Jim_Rogers on March 31, 2012, 04:59:45 PM
But I figure I can now duck tape them to the outrigger top and hopefully they will work and keep the sawdust out.
It won't work. ;) As soon as you drop them down, the duck tape will rip off where the it goes down through the mount.
I don't wash the mill much, but I do blow it down with a lawn blower pretty often...stick the nozzle in and blow the sawdust out...it comes out pretty good.
I don't know what size the WM outrigger tubing is, but McMaster-Carr sells tubing plugs. http://www.mcmaster.com/#sundry-plugs/=gwq1r1
Quote from: eastberkshirecustoms on March 31, 2012, 10:07:44 PM
I don't know what size the WM outrigger tubing is, but McMaster-Carr sells tubing plugs. http://www.mcmaster.com/#sundry-plugs/=gwq1r1
Wood-Mizer sell them too. ;D Part number is P09926. Cost is $2.27 each. I just picked up 2 this past week from WM Shade Gap. ;D
Those plastic caps don't last, for me. Anybody try wooden plugs?
If you're handy with a mig welder, why not just cut some light metal and make permanent covers for the outriggers?
Cut them to just fit inside the tubing.
Digging the outriggers in so that the top is at least a couple of inches below the saw bed prolongs the cap life.
I had the same problem for years until I got sick of it and welded caps on all the tops. problem solved ;D. Tim
Or replace them with FAO's. ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN0594.JPG)
No cap, just an adjusting nut on top.
Magic,I could use those right now,have the mill set up for three weeks now on a new dug out area, The mill keeps sinking into the ground and I run out of tolerance once it sinks in. gave me fits until I figured it out. I am going to put them on my wish list. Tim
I am completely sold on the FAO's. I knew last Summer that I would have at least two before this year. My plan was to replace the ones in front of and behind the axle on the rail side. After replacing them, I decided to replace the front (hitch) FAO. I personally see no need to replace the two on the loader side or the tail end.
On the "332 Miles for This?" job I moved the sawmill and set it up 16 or 17 times, many of which were on a gravel road where I would have had to dig in a couple of outriggers to get them below the saw deck. They have been a life (back) saver for me.
Well, as a quick fix I tried the duct tape method:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10095/DSCF5128.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10095/DSCF5129.JPG)
This one doesn't look like it's going to stick:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10095/DSCF5132.JPG)
Oh, well I tried...
Jim Rogers
Jim, Duct tapes saves time and from what I see it did its job 8). Tim
Quote from: Magicman on April 03, 2012, 10:12:44 PM
I am completely sold on the FAO's. I knew last Summer that I would have at least two before this year. My plan was to replace the ones in front of and behind the axle on the rail side. After replacing them, I decided to replace the front (hitch) FAO. I personally see no need to replace the two on the loader side or the tail end.
On the "332 Miles for This?" job I moved the sawmill and set it up 16 or 17 times, many of which were on a gravel road where I would have had to dig in a couple of outriggers to get them below the saw deck. They have been a life (back) saver for me.
MM why is having FAO jacks on the loader side less important?
i'm guessing he levels to those stands :)
Less important to me. Others my have a different opinion.
There are 4 outriggers on the rail side and 2 on the loader side, and the two loader side outriggers are very easily accessed. The rail side not so, especially the ones in front of and behind the axle. The weight of the logs, sawhead, and engine are constantly trying to sink the rail side outriggers into the ground, so they need re-adjusting much more often than the loader side does. Matter of fact, it is a very rare instance when I have had to re-adjust the loader side.
In my case, it's what Dan said. My 'demo' mill came with FAO's along the rail, and standard outriggers by the loading arms. In general, I set the loader side outriggers, and then 'tune' the setup using the FAO's.
--Peter
What is the adjustment range of the FAOs? I mean the screw adjustment only, not the entire outrigger. Is it just a couple inches?
The FAO nearest the hitch on my mill has about 7" of adjustment in the screw. That's the only one I could measure easily at the moment. I suspect they're all about the same. I rarely use more than a few inches of adjustment in the center outriggers.
--Peter
On the FAO's, does one have additional adjustment beyond the screw travel of 7"? I mean are there holes within that the pin goes through on the bottom of the outrigger, that one can use to re-set the post to different heights? Can one get the front hitch end as low to the ground with an FAO as with a regular outrigger, when ground slopes down from front to back?
Yes, there are holes drilled for multiple stops. There have been instances where I have wished for a few more holes in the front FAO. I do still need and use a couple of blocks for either the front or the back. (My back is not a FAO.)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN0976S.JPG)
Blocks added beneath the FAO.
Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on June 20, 2012, 08:14:39 AM
On the FAO's, does one have additional adjustment beyond the screw travel of 7"? I mean are there holes within that the pin goes through on the bottom of the outrigger, that one can use to re-set the post to different heights? Can one get the front hitch end as low to the ground with an FAO as with a regular outrigger, when ground slopes down from front to back?
I have 4 FAO's along the rail. I've never had standard outriggers in these positions, so I can't compare. The hitch end FAO and the two middle FAO's all have three sets of 'pin holes' about 1-1/2" apart. The rear FAO has about 6 'pin holes', so there's a lot more flexibility at that end.
Having FAO's doesn't mean that you don't sometimes need blocking, especially at the front or rear. But, once blocking is in place, getting the mill's weight properly distributed is pretty easy.
--Peter
You will not be digging the FAO's in so that the tops will clear the bed rails. I have seen the need to have a couple more holes on the front FAO, but then it hasn't prevented a setup yet. I just raised the foot to the next higher hole and used a couple of blocks. Still no digging in.
I am 100% sold on the FAO's for portable use. The ease of setup is unbelievable.
Quote from: Magicman on June 22, 2012, 10:45:04 PM
You will not be digging the FAO's in so that the tops will clear the bed rails. I have seen the need to have a couple more holes on the front FAO, but then it hasn't prevented a setup yet. I just raised the foot to the next higher hole and used a couple of blocks. Still no digging in.
I am 100% sold on the FAO's for portable use. The ease of setup is unbelievable.
thats why I have six of them , MM
Quote from: Peter Drouin on June 23, 2012, 06:34:24 PMthats why I have six of them , MM
Because of the unlevel terrain, I could have used 6 at my last saw site.
There is no question that the FAO's are a worthwhile sawmill option for a portable operation. I thought so, but after a got mine, I knew it.
Just cleaned mine, I used a piece of broken blade on each side of the lock pin, then set a block held the lock pin and finished the job, the duct tape is quick and cheap, tacking a cover sounds good too,
This thread is great. I run a tree removal business in Atlanta, and I've always kicked around the idea of setting up a portable mill so that on a job site, we can quickly mill the really thick trees into live edge slabs to be used in furniture building. Figured that would be a great way to add another revenue stream to my business. It's always felt like a pretty daunting task for me to get set up, but after reading through these posts, it puts me at ease, knowing that it can be done. Thanks guys.