Woodmizer blade

[Hayseed]

Has anyone tried the new woodmizer 747 blade. Suppose to be a good all around blade. According to the woodmizer sales guy. I am looking to cut white oak on my lt40 with 28hp gas engine

[WV Sawmiller]

   Never heard of them. Let me know how how they work out.

[John S]

I was told about them coming to the market but did not know that they were available now.

[Southside]

What are they? 

[terrifictimbersllc]

Sound like super turbos to me. 7 degree and 49 back angle. Just heard about them the other day. 

[kkennedy64]

They are not on the WoodMizer website yet.

[PAmizerman]

They are on the website now. 
I run 1¼ blades but the only 1¼ they offer are .042 thick. I've been running .055.
Y'all think .042 gonna give me trouble on hemlock knots?

[YellowHammer]

I think .042 will give you trouble in chocolate chip ice cream if you are having a snack attack and sawing fast. :D

[Southside]

Is it me or did the prices go up quite a bit?

[DWyatt]

I spoke with a lady at the Paul Bunyan Show this weekend about the 747 blades. From what she explained, they will be very similar to the Turbo 7 Blades. They have had so many small motor mills like mine (25hp gas) running the Turbo 7 blades and like me when they get into a real wide cut they start to be horsepower limited. At 20" wide in soft maple, I could not keep the band moving fast enough through the cut and was getting the "ripples" of that are normal when cutting too slow with the T7. These new bands are supposed to remedy that problem and allow smaller HP mills to keep the feed speed where the band likes to be. 

This was my take away anyways, take it with a grain of salt as there was a lot going on at the show.

[DbltreeBelgians]

I talked with a guy from WoodMizer on Friday about that blade that was on the Lt70 wide at the show and I noticed the cant on the mill had the ripples for the first few feet then it was flat and smooth after that. He explained to me that the 747 would do the ripples if feed speed was slow and once the feed speed was increased to the sweet spot so to speak it cut flat and smooth. So as DWyatt mentioned "take it with a grain of salt ". 

Brent 

[123maxbars]

I got a box of them last week, .055 thickness. I plan on trying one out this week on a good size walnut log.
I will report back here with a video on it as soon as I get it on the 40. Should be by end of the week if not sooner, 

[PAmizerman]

@123maxbars can you get .055 in 1¼ wide? How wide of bands are you running?

[123maxbars]

@123maxbars can you get .055 in 1¼ wide? How wide of bands are you running?

I think they offer the .055 in 1 1/2 and 1/1/4
I am running the 171in wide head blades @ 1/1/4, after talking with @YellowHammer a few 
months  back before I got my new mill I decided to go with 
055 on everything, best blade decision ever, that Alabama fan sure knows his stuff  :D

[YellowHammer]

In my experience, whatever a .045" will do, a .055" will do better, at the slight sacrifice of increased fatigue failure.  An .055 will let you use all the engine power you paid for, will let you cut faster and flatter, but won't last as long on 19" diameter wheels.

Roll Tide!!

[Bruno of NH]

Do they make a .055 in 1 1/4 
If so I would like some for wide cuts.

[terrifictimbersllc]

158" 1-1/4 055 blades in 4, 7, 9, 10, 7 turbo are presently listed on the Wood-Mizer website. 

[petefrom bearswamp]

I have used .055 and .042 in many configurations but last used the 7 turbos.
They work fine but nothing will not climb hemlock kots

[Crusarius]

I just be happy if I could figure out how to cut spruce without waves.

[Bruno of NH]

4° band on the spruce or turbo 7°

[Crusarius]

Last time I was using turbo 7. Did good most of the way then I noticed the waves. Not sure if they were there before I noticed them. Probably.

Guess I will try 4 degree next.

[Bruno of NH]

The best for spruce is the 4°
Imo 

[ladylake]

  Yes  4° , heavy set,  shallow gullet cuts spruce the straightest.  Steve

[Crusarius]

hmm. may have to make my setter sooner than I thought. I was under the impression 10 degree was best for soft stuff.

[Bruno of NH]

10° 0nly work for me when there are few knots

[Crusarius]

This lumber has been pretty clear but I am also cutting 20'. 

[Bruno of NH]

The tree service logs got me this week 3 turbo 7's sharpened 3 times.
Ordered some 747's .055 today to try

[hersnsh#590]

I've been real happy with W/M 4 degree blades, 0.045 and 1-1/4.  Am milling red spruce right now, and as long as I change blades frequently, the best results I've had in my limited experience.

Dale

[thecfarm]

I am only a hobby sawyer. I had a spruce on my mill with 10° blades. I had more waves than a ocean!!  It all went onto the burn pile. I buried it with slabs so no one would see it. :D  I don't have much spruce. I will sell it for logs.

[WV Sawmiller]

hmm. may have to make my setter sooner than I thought. I was under the impression 10 degree was best for soft stuff.

News flash grasshopper - Spruce knots ain't the soft stuff! :D I can cut soft or hard stuff with my 4 degree but I can't cut hard stuff with my 10's. When I use up my 10 & 7 degree blades in stock it will all be 4 degree bands for this hillbilly.

[Nebraska]

I broke down and I rdered some 4 degree blades as well, my tech needed some 2x stuff for making a wind break to keep weather out of her  open front shed she keeps critters in.  I milled a ponderosa log for project I wasn't pleased  with the cuts . I used a new 10 degree band and I swear I could hold a better line with my chainsaw.  Two left out of that box, I  hope after I send them off to be sharpened  they cut better, I won't cut good stuff with them again for sure.  

[Crusarius]

Last night I cut some more 20' 2x6's using the same turbo 7. I slowed my feed rate and it cut smooth as could be. Maybe I was just driving to fast. I been listening to everyone else say you need to go fast with turbo 7's. Apparently that is not the case with my mill. I do need to check the drive belt tension and probably tighten that. I really should add a spring tensioner. The last design did not work.

[Magicman]

I been listening to everyone else say you need to go fast with turbo 7's.

Fast is a relative term that can/does mean different speeds to each individual.  I have also read where you need to "push them hard".  How hard is "hard"?

Be aware of the species; knotty or clear, hard wood or soft, spiral grain or straight, etc.?

Listen to your sawmill; running full rpm's or lugging down, possible blade slipping on drive wheel, any buildup on the blade, blade sharp, blade running cool, need lube or not, etc. ?

Wavy lumber is not always the blade's fault.

[Crusarius]

Thanks magicman, I agree. I am still learning and trying to get a feel for this sawing thing. 

Everything you listed seemed ok. I think I was just feeding to fast. When I slowed down it cut great. I do think that the drive belt may be slipping a little. Just enough to cause issues. Time to work on a spring loaded idler pulley.

[YellowHammer]

On a side note, one of the reasons I didn't really like the Turbo .055's for my LT40 was they take a deep aggressive bite, and was causing me to retension my drive belt more frequently.  It would start slipping much more than even with standard 7's, so I went from adjusting the main drive belt from once in a while to once a week or so.  So it was putting higher loads on my mill, and in I didn't like that.  I stopped using them for that reason.

Conversely, on my LT70, tha hasn't been a problem, and it loves the Turbo 7's, at max power.  A little too fast a feed rate will result in engine RPM fade, but I can electronically govern my max feed rate with the soft buttons on the DCS so I can't accidentally overload the motor.  

It will be interesting to see how these new bands do.  

[Percy]

I just be happy if I could figure out how to cut spruce without waves.

When cutting spruce, which is most of my time, I run an obscene amount of set...especially in the bigguns...38-40 thou.It works for me...and the mill is less finicky when it comes to proper blade guide alignment...downside is more hp required or slower feed rate if you are down in the ponies.......

[Crusarius]

I have 22hp. I have not noticed a power issue yet. I was cutting ash with the same turbo 7 blade last night and it cut beautifully.

I really think it is a feed speed issue more than anything at this point. I will continue to play and learn. One day I may start a lessons learned thread

[Bruno of NH]

Ash cuts great with a t7°

[Crusarius]

I was happy. Except for the stress in the log.

[Chuck White]

I'm not understanding why so many people have such a magnitude of issues with the 10° blades, it's all I use, 10° Double Hard!

On Wednesday and Thursday I sawed over 1,300 bf Yellow Birch and Black Cherry into 4/4X8X8 and & Friday I sawed over 1,200 bf of Spruce & Hemlock into mostly 1X(as wide as I can get)X12 with absolutely no issues.

About 80% of the Spruce went into 4/4X12X12 and most of the Hemlock went into 4/4 wide boards and some of it went into 2X.

I set and sharpen my own blades, I set them at .022-.025!

[Stephen1]

I'm not understanding why so many people have such a magnitude of issues with the 10° blades, it's all I use, 10° Double Hard!

On Wednesday and Thursday I sawed over 1,300 bf Yellow Birch and Black Cherry into 4/4X8X8 and & Friday I sawed over 1,200 bf of Spruce & Hemlock into mostly 1X(as wide as I can get)X12 with absolutely no issues.

About 80% of the Spruce went into 4/4X12X12 and most of the Hemlock went into 4/4 wide boards and some of it went into 2X.

I set and sharpen my own blades, I set them at .022-.025!

Chuck I was the same with my old LT40 ,no issues with the 10, only thing I had issues withwas dead ash, and I ran 9's, but the new mill is a nightmare with 10's, I am converting the 10's to 7's and mabe after the next sharpening they will be closer to7's but I do not think I can turn them into Turbo's with the deeper gullet before they are all finnished. I do hit a fair amount of hardware.
I also find that with spruce, it is better to have the small end facing the blade as it cuts into the knots not ride up and over

[Crusarius]

I'm not understanding why so many people have such a magnitude of issues with the 10° blades, it's all I use, 10° Double Hard!

On Wednesday and Thursday I sawed over 1,300 bf Yellow Birch and Black Cherry into 4/4X8X8 and & Friday I sawed over 1,200 bf of Spruce & Hemlock into mostly 1X(as wide as I can get)X12 with absolutely no issues.

About 80% of the Spruce went into 4/4X12X12 and most of the Hemlock went into 4/4 wide boards and some of it went into 2X.

I set and sharpen my own blades, I set them at .022-.025!

Chuck I wish I had your luck. softwoods are my nemesis. I can't seem to get them to cut smooth. When I do it doesn't last long. I am still learning, I think I only have 12 hours on my mill since I built it with zero milling experience before that. Hopefully time will fix this issue.

[Crusarius]

I also find that with spruce, it is better to have the small end facing the blade as it cuts into the knots not ride up and over

Stephen, I think you may be correct I think the last one I cut was oriented like that and it cut much smoother. I will pay attention to that in the future and report back.

[Magicman]

I'm not understanding why so many people have such a magnitude of issues with the 10° blades, it's all I use, 10° Double Hard!

I agree Chuck.  I sawed the great majority of my first Million BF with 10° blades because that is what was suggested/offered.  I did struggle with some minor species as well as very large SYP knots until a got a few 4° blades.  My current turbo diesel will pull the 7°T's so that is all that I have now.

[YellowHammer]

When I went to WM Ga to do my LT70 acceptance testing, it was done with 10° bands in pretty clean pine, maybe 18 inch diameter.  I was a little surprised that's what they would put on, but I ran the tests anyway, and we cut some boards, the mill ran fine, straight cuts, decent cuts, OK speed, no problems.  I did however almost stall the engine trying to cut the same eyeball speed I cut pine back home with my 40.  So the LT 70 with 10's wouldn't pine cut as fast as my LT 40 with 7's.

When everything was setup back at the house, I ran the 10°'s they gave me until they were dull and then put a standard 7° on.  Big difference, still straight cuts but significantly faster.  I ran a box of them and then put a box of Turbos on.  Another very big increase in sawing speed still maintaining quality.  I then put on a box of Kasco 7°' s which resulted in significantly reduced sawing speed and basically replicated the sawing wth the WM 7's.

We mill about 20 different species of hardwood, plus some pine, and the mill will handle about every band I put in it, but it definately finds another gear when I use the Turbos.

So I'm not sure there is a wrong band, but there are some that are better than others.

[Chuck White]

So, I guess a lot of the issue boils down to "horse power and feed speed", that's where the hook angle figures in!

Thinking about it, it does make sense! ;)

[YellowHammer]

Yes, horsepower is king and as I've mentioned, there's nothing that an .045" will do that a .055" won't do better, but it takes ponies.  

  

[Remle]

I also find that with spruce, it is better to have the small end facing the blade as it cuts into the knots not ride up and over

Stephen, I think you may be correct I think the last one I cut was oriented like that and it cut much smoother. I will pay attention to that in the future and report back.

Spruce is especially troublesome , I agree with sawing from the small end on all species of wood , except the butt log IMHO should be swan from the large end as the blade will try to follow the flare of the grain especially if the blade is beginning to get dull . Keeping a sharp blade is a must , change them sooner .
Crusarius
Do you sharpen your blades or send them out ? I found a good sharpener in your area , if you are interested I'll send you his information in a PM .

[Crusarius]

Remle that would be great. so far I have not sharpened anything. I have a pretty big stock of blades. Just been playing with different profiles and stuff to see what I like the best.

[Remle]

 Crusarius
Sent you a PM with the info .
Please let me know how you make out.

[Crusarius]

Awesome. Thank you.

[MobileSawMilSlo]

Hi

Guys, I need one explanation regarding cutting spruce.
I agree that 7 or 4-degree blade is the best for spruce. I also confirm, that set around 0.35 is good.

But I do not understand why shallow gullet could be good. 

Because of the set is larger, than the gullet can not be shallow. Shallow gullet will quickly fill with sawdust and when gullet is full problems will start.

Do you agree or I missed something? 

[ladylake]

 I think the gullet doesn't get full at all, maybe if sawing 75 feet per minute in soft wood in a 20" wide cut.  I'll say this again I saw spruce the straightest with a 4° blade, heavy set , 3/4 pitch blade which has a shallow gullet.  To me a deep gullet blade has less blade body to keep the blade straight and taller teeth to twist the blade more.   Steve

[Stephen1]

Remle that would be great. so far I have not sharpened anything. I have a pretty big stock of blades. Just been playing with different profiles and stuff to see what I like the best.

I think untill you have your mill set up and running straight true cuts, I would run the same blade. Experimenting with blades on an unproven build mill is going to give you trouble and then your not sure what is wrong. 
90% of bad sawing is due to blades. 
I was given 1.5" .55Kasco 7's this summer and I set the mill up to saw with them, 2 cuts and they were wandering, and that was in a red oak cant. I spend 2 hrs at a customer trying to adjust the mill, I put on a new blade , it sawed 2 cuts  and wandered. I drove back to my shop and picked up my carbide blades, beautifull sawing the rest of the day. Kasco informed me that they had a bad batch of steel and will replace the blades. Not the mill, not me, bad blades.

[Crusarius]

With hardwoods I only have issues when the blade gets dull. Other than that I can cut hardwoods all day with no issues. Its the darn softwoods that kill me. I think I am getting it figured out though. Looks like to high of feed speed. I do think that my drive belt may be slipping. I need to retension that again before doing any cutting.

[Stephen1]

With hardwoods I only have issues when the blade gets dull. Other than that I can cut hardwoods all day with no issues. Its the darn softwoods that kill me. I think I am getting it figured out though. Looks like to high of feed speed. I do think that my drive belt may be slipping. I need to retension that again before doing any cutting.

Slipping driive belts will do that for sure. The only time I had trouble on the old mill with a 24onan was dead ash. I had to change to a 9 degree blade.
I used the same blade for everything -10's

[Bruno of NH]

The 1 1/4" .055 Woodmizer 747 make my Mill cut much better in the knotty pine.
I'm only going to buy. 055 now , I can tell a tremendous difference in the cut quality.

[Stephen1]

The 1 1/4" .055 Woodmizer 747 make my Mill cut much better in the knotty pine.
I'm only going to buy. 055 now , I can tell a tremendous difference in the cut quality.

I see more and more and choosing the 055, especially with the larger HP. 
How long do they last? How many sharpening's can you get before they break? Years ago I ran some 055 and was only able to get 1 sharpening out of them. 

[Bruno of NH]

They stay sharp 
I have not had any sharpened yet. 
Cut hard maple today fast and flat

[Magicman]

Even if they are still cutting flat, don't be fooled and run them dull. 

[Bruno of NH]

I won't 
I learned my lesson on a 4° band last week.
Left it it on to long and broke my first band ever.
Ran it to long.

[YellowHammer]

On a 19 inch band wheel (LT-40) I would get between 1 and max 3 sharpening before they broke.  I switched totally to .055 some time ago.  I would have couple B-57's for spares in case a broken band cut one up.   

On my LT-70 I'm on my 4rth sharpening round on some.

Other than blade life, as I mentioned, anything an .045 would do, an .055 can do better.  Flatter, faster, straighter.  However, at the sacrifice of flex life.  For me, it was well worth it.

 

[Magicman]

I got 2-3 resharpens on .055 Turbo 7° blades.  I also witnessed two sawyers, one with an LT50 and the other with an LT40 break new .055 Turbo 7° blades that never had a chance to be resharpened, not once.  I did not check their sharpness (dullness). 

[PAmizerman]

Even if they are still cutting flat, don't be fooled and run them dull.

Agree. They will snap really quick if they are run dull. 

[ncsawyer]

I ran 9° blades on just about everything on my old 18HP LT40 and had good results.  With the low HP, the feed rate had to be slowed down on big logs and wide cuts.  

On my diesel LT40 I started out with 7° .042 blades and was not satisfied at all.  Even in pine it would wave all over the place, especially short leaf pine. I changed to 4° .055.  blades and they cut much better, but noticeably slower.  But even with these blades I regularly run into some difficult sawing, especially in white oak and of course hickory and big short leaf pine can be difficult to get to saw straight even with a brand new blade.  

I have some 30 inch white and red oak to saw in the next week or so and am thinking about trying the new 747 .055.  I am not worried about the red oak, but would like to find a blade that would cut white oak more consistently.

[Peter Drouin]

I'm the odd guy I run the 55 till they wave then put on a sharp one. I grind-heavy. 
I get 4 or 5 sharpenings out of them. By that time the hard part of the tooth is gone, then I junk them. I don't wait for them to break first. I tighten the blade till I can't turn the handle anymore. ;D

I don't baby my blades at all. ;D 

[Bruno of NH]

This 747 band is working great for me.
Milled some old dry ash logs I have had for a year.Before that they sat at a concentration yard for a year.
I had trouble milling these logs before with other bands.
747 went like a hot knife in butter.
They stay sharp. 

[PAmizerman]

I just ordered a box!!

[jeepcj779]

Most seem to be of the opinion that .55 blades cut better than .45 blades. What about 1.25 vs 1.5 in wide? What benefits does the wider blade have? 

[barbender]

In my limited experience, I gained more performance from thicker .055" blades than the wider 1.5". However, they only lasted 2-3 sharpenings.

[Percy]

Most seem to be of the opinion that .55 blades cut better than .45 blades. What about 1.25 vs 1.5 in wide? What benefits does the wider blade have?

My experience has been the 1.5 blades can be pushed a little harder than the 1.25 blades. The 1.5 blades are more sensitive to proper blade alignment...Just my observation over the years. Your results may vary....heh....

[YellowHammer]

 

[jeepcj779]

YellowHammer mentioned earlier in the thread that he tried, but didn't like the .55's on an LT 40 because of the extra wear and tear as compared to the .45's (even though they cut better), but that they seemed fine on his LT70. He also said anything a .45 can do, a .55 can do better. For those of you who have experience with both .45 and .55 blades on different platforms, is the performance increase you see with .55's worth the reduction in sharpening cycles (seems like a 50% reduction is average)? What are the advantages of the .55 over the .45? Being able to push harder? Cut flatter? Being able to push harder while cutting flatter? Are .45's better suited to a LT40 sized mill than .55's, maybe due to the 19" band wheels?

[barbender]

My experience on an LT40 with 55 and 45 blades is that you can push the 55s way harder and the lumber stays flat, if you have enough hp. I gained more cutting speed while maintaining cut quality going to the thicker 55 blades, vs a wider 1.5" vs 1.25". Of course, you can go to a 1.5"x 0.55 and really start sawing!😁 I have to piddle around with a lot of small logs and such, and in those situations the 55s aren't worth it for me as they don't last long enough. If I get in bigger logs, especially pine, and I want to saw fast I'll get more 55s. Mine all broke so I'm cycling through all my 045s.

[jeepcj779]

So the type and size of logs you are sawing are factors in determining the thickness of blade to be used, as a thicker blade may not be required to saw flat in smaller or softer logs.

[YellowHammer]

On a side note, one of the reasons I didn't really like the Turbo .055's for my LT40 was they take a deep aggressive bite, and was causing me to retension my drive belt more frequently.  It would start slipping much more than even with standard 7's, so I went from adjusting the main drive belt from once in a while to once a week or so.  So it was putting higher loads on my mill, and in I didn't like that.  I stopped using them (.055 Turbos) for that reason.

I should have been more clear, I put the parentheses in the quote above.  I only had the main drive belt issues with the 055 Turbos.  Actually, I used a lot of standard .055 7's and 4's on my LT40 and it handled them well.  I had the Yanmar diesel, and all the the .055's I tried cut very flat, especially in wider logs.  On the other hand, I disliked the .055 Turbos because they were hard on my mill, and it caused issues.  I switched out .045 7's when I was going through easy wood, such as Poplar and Basswood, mainly because I had boxes of them and they sawed fine in some stuff.  When I had big hard wood, on went the .055 standard 7's.
So I ran standard 7's in both band thicknesses on my LT40 and this allowed me to not have to adjust my sharpener or setter.
With my new LT70 Wide, there isn't enough gullet depth in the standard 7's in the wide cuts, so there is a lot of sawdust spillage and wavy cuts in wide logs, because it will cut to 34" and my old LT40 cut to 24".   Seems about 26" to 28" wide is where the standard 7's lose advantage and the Turbos surpass them. Flatter cuts, less sawdust, higher speed.  
Everything is a trade off.  With the LT70, I'm not seeing the band fatigue I had with the smaller bandwheels of the LT40 and the main drive belt is much beefier, so retensioning isn't an issue.  I've used both .055 x 1.5 in Turbo 7 and the standard 7 and the Turbo is noticeably faster while at the same time cutting flatter.  
@123maxbars got his new LT40 mill with the big diesel and he slabs as wide as possible, as I do.  I suggested he switch to .055's and I think he is quite pleased.  
 

[Bruno of NH]

I slab wide with my lt40wide max cut 38hp gas 
I have switched to 747 in .55
Flat cuts in hard maple and white oak.
With the 7 turbo .45 I could get some wave in max cut on hardwood and pine with spike knots. But not every cut it would just show up.
So far I'm very happy with the 38hp gas.

[Stephen1]

I slab wide with my lt40wide max cut 38hp gas
I have switched to 747 in .55
Flat cuts in hard maple and white oak.
With the 7 turbo .45 I could get some wave in max cut on hardwood and pine with spike knots. But not every cut it would just show up.
So far I'm very happy with the 38hp gas.

I have the same mill. I looked at the diesel, but the cost and the amount I saw did not justify the huge cost difference. I like the 38, but have no problems bogging it down in "fast" wide cuts. I usually only see the corduroy after I flip the slab.
I am going to order the 1.25 7turbos .55 on Monday. I hit so much hardware I only average 2-3 sharpenings per blade anyways.  
Really an truely the best blade so far has been the 7carbide. I maybe get 1 sharpening and lots of time I have to junk them as I hit trash. But can you ever cut a lot of lumber without stopping to change a blade. I have furniture builders that want me to use them. They pay when I trash them no problems. The finish they get, cuts down on their plaining, and I'm not changing blades unless we hit something. That saves 2-3 blade changes in a day if not more. Depending on how dirty the logs are. 

[123maxbars]

I slab wide with my lt40wide max cut 38hp gas
I have switched to 747 in .55
Flat cuts in hard maple and white oak.
With the 7 turbo .45 I could get some wave in max cut on hardwood and pine with spike knots. But not every cut it would just show up.
So far I'm very happy with the 38hp gas.

Same set up for me except I have the Diesel. 
After @YellowHammer guided me on my new mill upgrade and now blade use I am sawing perfectly flat wide slabs. 
Go with the .055 and if you have to make adjustments everyday it's still worth it, 

[Stephen1]

I slab wide with my lt40wide max cut 38hp gas
I have switched to 747 in .55
Flat cuts in hard maple and white oak.
With the 7 turbo .45 I could get some wave in max cut on hardwood and pine with spike knots. But not every cut it would just show up.
So far I'm very happy with the 38hp gas.

Same set up for me except I have the Diesel.
After @YellowHammer guided me on my new mill upgrade and now blade use I am sawing perfectly flat wide slabs.
Go with the .055 and if you have to make adjustments everyday it's still worth it,

Guys are you using 1.25" or 1.5" . 7 Turbos
I had a box of Kasco's 1.5" 7's., they ended up being bad steel and went dull after 2 cuts. I am waiting for a replacement box. I didn't like the the adjusting between 1.5" and 1.25" . I want to have one width and cut down on the adjusting. 

[E-Tex]

stephen1  -   just ordered some 055  x  1.25 just for that reason.  i have all 1.25 now and i want to keep one width and avoid adjustments.  and concerned if my 38gas will pull the 1.5 wide blade (WoodMizer told me it will).

Can't wait to try them.  I have a stack of nice post oak logs to try my new 747's, .055, 1.25"


I do want to try a 1.5" at some point though.

[barbender]

The 1.5" width will not make much of a difference horsepower wise. The .055 will take a lot more power, though.