Toeboards?

[woodhick]

I have a woodmizer LT40 manual mill that has had all of the hydraulics added except toeboards.  I currently don't have any more valves available with my setup to add hydraulic toeboards.  I am currently using my canthook (Logrite) to raise one end and place a shim under log.  Works good until you get the big ones on there.  I am considering adding woodmizers manual toeboards to my mill.  How many of you use them and are they worth it?   I'm sure there a lot slower than hydraulic but then again there a lot cheaper also ;).   I have considered using hydraulic (manual) jacks, scissor jacks,etc.  For those that have the manual toeboards, could they be powered by a 12v gearmotor via a sprocket?   Just checking out my options.  Trying not to get to much money is this upgrade as I want to install a debarker very soon also. 

[onionman]

I  use them       work  ok  they would be much better if they were made like the roller toe boads  just manual
I don,,t think there would be room for a sprocket ..u have to pull off the handle after raising the mizer ones..
they  get bent pretty bad by the head if u don't :-[

[Dave Shepard]

We have them on the gas powered mill, going to get them for the electric, unless I set that one up with hydraulics. We broke one of them with a big pine log, but I think that was due to accumulated abuse. (Not me) They are fairly quick, and will lift big logs with ease.


Dave

[Bibbyman]

I think I'd try this...



For more pictures of this mod, check out ...

Useful Sawmill Mods - Manual toeboars

[Brucer]

I bought the toeboards with my manual mill. They worked great on mid-sized logs, but were too slow for small logs. Got a bit of a workout on really big logs, but I did manage to level a 20' long, 4000 lb Ponderosa Pine.

No room for a sprocket arrangement. My plan was to buy a 12 V. cordless drill and make an adaptor to fit the toeboard shaft. If that worked, I was going to come up with a plug-in cable arrangement to power the drill from the mill's battery. Before I got around to that, I bought a hydraulic mill instead ;D.

[jesse]

could plumb in a selector valve and not have to add another valve

http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008030422171835&item=9-6133&catname=hydraulic

[Left Coast Chris]

Harbor Freight has a 12 volt sissor jack that looks like it could be modified to work.  $49.95.

[woodhick]

Well I got a price on woodmizers roller toeboards.  I am going to order a couple of them tomorrow.  Now I need to decide if I want to operate them manual or plumb them up to my hydraulics.  I figured out a easy way around my valve problem so that's not the issue. I'm thinking if I go manual with a binders as  shown above or a hydraulic jack that I 'm going to regret not putting cylinders on it.   Are the cylinders on the woodmizers double acting or single? 

[Brucer]

Toeboard cylinders are double-acting, 1.5" x 6" stroke. Don't know if you bought the cylinder mounting bracket or not -- it bolts onto the bed frame member. If you did, the cylinder has a clevis mount on the body and an eye on the rod end.

[logwalker]

On my 1994 LT40HD they are single acting. They use a spring to return them. Joe

[Brucer]

Looks like you can take your pick of control options, woodhick .

[woodhick]

logwalker, does your mill have the roller toeboards or the older style that's just a cylinder with a flat bar on top with two springs mounted to it to return it?  This mod may have just got put on hold as I bought a truck body today for my kiln so may have to wait on this one.

[Dan_Shade]

the roller toeboards on my LT40 are double acting, my mill's a 2005 model.

[jackpine]

 My mill is a 2000 model and also has the double acting cylinders.

Another good use of the hydraulic toeboards. If you are sawing large beams and picking them up directly from the mill with forks on a skidsteer or fel use the toeboards to raise the beam or cant off the bed of the mill (approx. 6" at full height). This allows the forks to easily go under the beam regardless of the position of the bunks, and makes you cringe a little less when your skidsteer operator is not very good or careful :D

Bill

[Dave Shepard]

I think at this point I would try to make up a set of those manual toeboards in Bibbymans picture. I have been sawing some narrow stuff that the WM manual toeboards don't touch. The hand crank ones also push the log away from the stops, which can work against you once in a while.


Dave