I too Have a new Baby

[johnjbc]

First the good news. One of my neighbors saw the mill setting in the yard and called. Has some walnut logs he wants sawed
After I got my mill home the first thing I did was get the pressure washer out and clean it up. And sense it was clean I thought I might as well paint it before getting out the grease gun. That's when I learned about the ground contact that rides on the bottom rail . If you can't paint the track how do you keep it from rusting?
Well last night I finally got to my first attempt at sawing. The first problem was getting the log on the mill. My Northern Hydraulic cant hook firewood tool doesn't seem to be able to grab into a big log. Had to use my digging bar and blocks to roll it unto the loader.
After it was up on the mill I had to use the chain saw to trim it so the carriage didn't hit. Its sort of laying on a flat side so there isn't quite room to get the clamp to flip up..
Well now for the bad part. I put a blade on and lightly engaged the clutch to center it. Checked and the bottom of the gullet was just off the edge of the band wheel like the manual says. I put the cover on and lined up for my first cut.. When I engaged the blade I though I saw a spark but every thing seemed OK. I cut about 1/2 inch of but flair and was in bark 1/2 way up the log.. Brought the carriage back and tried a thicker cut. The blade went in about 8 inches climbing at about 10 degrees and stopped.. Had to release the blade to back the carriage away from the log and drive a chisel into the cut to release the blade.
Found that the tips of the blade are rounded. Checked the log for dirt or stones. None. Then I found a fresh grove in the inside of the blade cover.
At that point it was getting dark so I put the tools away and quit for the night. Planning to go work on my septic system this weekend so I will try it again Monday night.

John

[Bro. Noble]

John,

You probably didn't get your blade cover on just right.

It takes a little while to get used to everything and to know just what to watch for.

Be careful handeling those big logs.  They are way more likely to hurt you than your mill.

Noble

[johnjbc]

Success cut my first boards tonight :D   5/4 x 26 15 ft long didn't have any problem with the blade hitting the cover. Did find that the tire on the drive wheel was warn down to the top of the drive pulley. There was one in the spares box that was in better shape so I put it on.
Had some trouble turning the log the first 3 turns. The turner was hitting the log on the fence side of the center of gravity and pushing it back unto the loader. Tried the cant hook but I wasn't strong enough to slide it back. Got my 4 foot hi-lift tractor jack and was able to roll it far enough to catch it with the turner. Must be some trick to doing it without the jack. :P
Tomorrow will be my fires attempt at edging on the mill :
John

[Frank_Pender]

Johnjbc, it sounds as though your learning curve is moving up the scale in a rapid manner. :P  I am sure all of us have been there and still are on such a curve.  :P Those wide boards sure sound pretty. ;)

[ARKANSAWYER]

Johnjbc,
    Listen to your saw.  It will tell you what is going on.  The engine will lug and the blade makes it own sound.  Then the zzziiippp  of a nail as the blade goes through and the  &^&$#^%$*&#!!! as your hat hits the ground and you kick something. :D
  You to will some day put your scars on the mill and mark your claim.
  Oven cleaner will shine them blades up like new money.  I personaly like re-sharp but then I go through a box or two a week.  I went through a box today,  DanG it! ;D
  Watch that walnut as them trees attract nails like no other.
ARKANSAWYER

[sparks]

Sorry Johnjbc. The autoclutch option only fits mills 1997 and newer. There are some retrofits available for you mill. They are:
Roller toe boards, automatic water lube system. debarker option, (if you mill has an alternator).  

[johnjbc]

Well the first log is done. Made 530 board feet of lumber. Also had to make my first repair. The pulley that drives the chain sprocket that moves the carriage came loose and backed out. This left the bearing blackout and the chain to slip. Put it back together and tightened the set screw. Good as new.
I think I might need to align the saw head. Every time I turn the log over to relieve strain in the log I had to make a true up cut. 1/4 inch on 1 side of the ends tapering to nothing  and getting thinner in the center of the log. If it was due to log strain I think it would be thicker in the center on alternate sides. Anyone seed this before - see picture




Sparks I think I have the automatic water lube system although water bucket looks home made. When you disengage the clutch it pinches the hose around a pin and shuts the water off. Seem to work OK except the bucket lid leaks a little.
I do have an alternator.

John

[Tom]

That out-of-square condition, also called a "Diamond Cant" can be caused by 4 things.  The first is when your dogs are not at a 90 degree angle to the bed.

The second is when the clamp is worn and, in it's down position, will lift one side of the cant. (old style clamp)

The third is when a piece of bark gets under one side of the cant so that the cant doesn't lie flat on the bed.

The last is when the head of the mill or the blade is not parallel to the bed.  That can be caused by blade guides being improperly set or the bottom rail-rollers (cam rollers) needing adjustment.

Log stress will usually show up as thick ends and thin middles or visa versa.

[johnjbc]

Thanks for the reply.
It looks like its number 4  I used a framing square to check the dogs and they are close. Next I measured from the blade to the first bed rail it was 7 1/16 next to the cantilever and 7 5/16 at the other end checking the other bed rails I got readings from just over 7 to 7 1/2. Time to study the manual.
Another question If I lift on the outer edge of the carriage it goes up and down 1 inch. This seem like too much. Play.

[Bibbyman]

That sounds about right.  

You may want to go through the whole alignment procedure step by step.  It's important to have the blade guide rollers making the right amount of deflection (1/16" if I remember right) and the blade guide moving in and out parallel to the blade, etc. before you attempt to adjust the sawhead lower cam bearings.

This is the kind of thing the WM training session would really help - provided you can train on your mill.  Those guys would basically go through it and show you how it's done.  They'll spot any blade guides or sawhead cam bearings, etc. that need replacing.

[Tom]

Bibbyman is right.  It is a great help to get them to help the first time.  I took mine back to Newnan the first time because I was so unsure.  It cost me for the line up but I watched and was allowed hands-on as it was done.  I've never regretted it.

The slop when you pick up on the outside of the head is normal.  That is the gap between the bottom rail and the lock.  You need to leave a little gap to keep the cam rollers from binding.  The lock is a little triangular piece of metal opposite the bottom cam rollers that contacts the rail when you bottom the head for travel.  That is one reason that it is so important for the head of the mill to be bottomed and the outside put on its pin and the chains locked when you travel,  to make sure the head doesn't jump off of the rails and end up in the road. :D