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Charge filter change timco 425c

Started by davidn3, January 23, 2021, 08:15:38 AM

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davidn3

I recently purchased a timco 425c with 8.3 Cummins.   So far everything runs great.  The charge filter setup is different than the manual.  One charge pump going to a filter and distribution block to both drive pumps.  There is a d/p connector that wasn't electrically connected.   I attached the connection to see what changed.  It brings in the charge pump alarm, depending on what 2 out of 4 prongs I connect to, and oil temp.  I tried to change the filter,  but the filter housing wont come off even with a breaker bar.  Is there a trick to changing the filter?  And what prongs is the filter alarm supposed to be attached to?  I cant find schematics for this setup anywhere.  I did vent tank pressure before closing the isolation valves.  Do I need to vent the filter because of check valves in the system?  

davidn3


mike_belben

Are you saying the filter wont unthread even with a breaker bar on a filter wrench?


Is is definitely a spin on filter?  Is there a drawbolt through the top or bottom?  


If its for sure a spin on, gently try to get the filter flange to come down a bit with a putty knife above and a thin skinny flatblade screwdriver or wood chisel below.  The putty knife is to protect the aluminum from being gouged.

Make a gap so you can shoot some PB blaster up in there to lubricate the O ring that is gumming up the works.  Lube your tool tips also to help reduce tearing aluminum.



Praise The Lord

davidn3

Yes.  I believe it's a spin on housing.   The cartridge inside gets replaced and the spin on housing gets re-used. 

mike_belben

Oh if its a cartidge insert then my advice probably doesnt work.  


Hose the whole perimeter with spray i guess.   Is your wrench slipping or you just cant get the room to budge it?  If slipping put a tack weld.  Thats how i get grumpy cylinder gland nuts to break loose.  Just be sure you can get a sawzall blade or grinder edge to the tack and only do one side. 

@Bargemonkey may know the machine.
Praise The Lord

BargeMonkey

That filter housing has external threads and slides up in the block, order new seals while your in there, ive done mine and if you don't have a good seal it will drip. Theres 1 filter there, 4 big ones up top.

davidn3

The housing has a hex nut on the bottom.   No slipping.  I've tried pb blaster and warming up the oil in it.  Where do I order seals and a filter.  What machine do you have?  This isnt original for my machine and cant find info on it anywhere.   Originally had 2 charge pumps with filters on each. 

treemuncher

I have several different machines with this type of filter system on them. Typically, those canisters are a bear to break loose.

Make sure you have a snug fitting socket or box end wrench on the nut at the base of the canister. I usually use a 3/4" or 1" drive socket on these. Use a long breaker bar with a cheater pipe if needed and apply a decent amount of pressure. If it does not break free, hold good pressure on the bar and gently tap the housing and canister with a small sledge/drilling hammer - 2 lbs is usually good for these tight spaces. Be careful not to deform the parts but do hit it hard enough to provide a reasonable shock to the assembly. The shock will allow the parts to break free from their locked hold.

Clean the canister until a white shop towel wipe comes back clean. Brake parts cleaner works well for removing residues. Be sure to inspect and lube threads well prior to reassembly.  Vaseline on the o-ring is good.

Once you have the filter out, there should be numbers on it. Get on Google and do a search with the part numbers. I usually write down the numbers in paint on the machine and order 2-3 filters at a time to keep them in stock. Sometimes the filter needed will be marked on the canister or housing if it has a name plate.
TreeMuncher.com  Where only the chosen remain standing

kiko

^^^^^  the hammer trick will do it.  Just so happens I am in the middle of a repair Valmet 445Exl.  Main pump was leaking into pump drive.  Resealing all the pumps silver pump on the back of the track pump is the charge pump.  


davidn3

Thanks.  I might get a real man's breaker bar.  Didn't want to break things first week of owning it.  What about the filter clogged sensor?  From what I've found is the alarm should be connected to posts 1 and 2.  Only problem is they aren't labeled.   There is a large post and 3 small posts.  I'm guessing the large post is ground post 4. 

BargeMonkey

Quote from: davidn3 on January 23, 2021, 09:21:04 AM
The housing has a hex nut on the bottom.   No slipping.  I've tried pb blaster and warming up the oil in it.  Where do I order seals and a filter.  What machine do you have?  This isnt original for my machine and cant find info on it anywhere.   Originally had 2 charge pumps with filters on each.
11/21/97 425C. Mine only has 1 charge pump filter. Did you check with a dealer about parts before you bought the machine ? I'm in NY and technically I can get parts from 1 dealer only, ran into this with a pin recently, other dealer i got the pin from can only sell in NY, just something to think about. The man to talk to for Timbco issues is Dan Johnson, he's in OH and I can give you his #, the guys a Timbco guru and deals in alot of parts. Did you check the finals before you bought the machine ? Weak link on a 425, 10k bucks buys you a used final. Every 2 oil changes I pop my covers, change the oil and check the shaft, ive got a pail in my shop and have to look what they are recommending for oil, its not regular 80/90. 

davidn3

Got the housing off.  Just needed 3/4 breaker bar.  1/2 had too much deflection.   I purchased it private party.  What do you mean final drive?  The transmission?  Checked oil and everything so far is clean.  Just want to change major filters before using it a bunch this spring.  But have a parts resource is good.  Where in NY are you located? 

davidn3


BargeMonkey

 So you got a machine off CJ's ? Which one did you buy, i know Clem Carron's machine was up there last i knew and his was a C. Im 2.5hrs away down in Schoharie county. 
The picture Kiko showed you is important, pump seals leaking into the drive, you want to watch for that. Final drives, planetary that drives the tracks. The 4 hoses to your drive motors are known to go and you want to catch them if they do, check the swivels. They are good machines, certain things are known to break depending what head your running. Mine came out of the UP with 2100hrs, been good for the most part. 

davidn3



It was in vermont.  I'm located north of Syracuse.  Rolly 2 head.  

davidn3



Anyone know where I can buy this filter? Cant seem to find it online. 

BargeMonkey

 Call CJ's... only one in NY you can buy it from anyway 😆... you can order them from Anderson but they have to be sent to Maine then shipped down, ive been down this road. 
 The smaller wiring harness or the 40pin bundle ? I know a couple guys right out your way. I know guys who love rolleys and ive talked to guys who hate them, from what I know Woodland equipment in MI is basically the people you want to talk to but again your in CJs territory. 

davidn3

I'm not sure about the harness.   I know it's been replaced with a new one with wires labeled.   So far I like the rolly head.  But I dont have anything to compare it to.  This is my first feller.  I am glad I went with a track machine though.   A wheeled feller would be a pain to maneuver around my property for selective cutting.   But like anything,  there is a learning curve.   I bent a bar on my first tree, and broke the chain on the second tree.  

davidn3

I was able to get a new filter from cjs.  Thanks.  Would you be able to check your machine and see how the filter clogged detector is wired?  

davidn3


mike_belben

That is probably just a pressure switch.  If you ohm it out at zero PSI and then hook it up to air and make it close youll find your pins.  One pair is probably N/O and other is probably N/C.  Id assume that the mfr would make a simple complete circuit to turn on the buzzers and wigwags and whatnot but some are gluttons for doing it the odd way.
Praise The Lord

davidn3

Yes.  All that is correct.   Hoping to find the correct 2 connections without taking the sensor out.  

BargeMonkey

I will pop the door open tomorrow. 👍

kiko

It appears that your filter pressure sensor is connected correctly.  Black wire opposite the flat blade and the green wire one terminal clockwise.

 

  

 

davidn3


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