Husqvarna 550 XP w/autotune

[Gary_C]

My old Jonsered 2149 quit and could not be fixed so I bought a new 550 XP with autotune and I am not happy. The saw runs and cuts excellent but it is so *DanG hard to start I seldom use it. Ya, I'm old and not as strong as I was but that saw has so much compression and no compression release (a mistake in my opinion) that I have not found a way to hold the saw steady and pull the rope at the same time. It kicks back so hard that I cannot hold the saw without it moving. And it floods so easy that I am totally frustrated. I've tried the foot in the handle thing but my work boots do not fit in the space very well and the saw just jerks out anyway. 

Has anybody figured a better way to hold and start these new saws? Yes, I used to drop start other saws but none of them had as much compression kick back as this one. Anybody ever made a holding fixture to hold the saw down while pulling the rope? 

Help.

[lxskllr]

I've read putting a stick through the handle to step on works well for some people. The saw might just be a bad match for you. Maybe take it to the dealer, or someone you trust and is familiar with the model, to review your start procedure. Seems to me it shouldn't be flooding.

[SkeeterKev]

Yes likely a bad match.
You could sell it.
I have a Stihl 241 with a compression release coupled with there start system is one easy saw to start.  You would have to work at it to flood it.
The 50CC MS261 should be the same.
Kevin

[hedgerow]

Gary C  I went threw the same thing with my big Solo after two shoulder surgery's I couldn't start it. It had no compression release. I sold the saw. All my saws now have compression releases. I find my self using my Stihl 261 more and the 660 and 461 set more. This getting old and starting saws is a problem. 

[thecfarm]

Is that a 50cc?
I bought a husky 450e, 50cc just about. That has no decompression valve.
But it has some sort of easy start to it. I can pull that real easy about 3 times, than take the chock off and I am good to go.
But I did have to have that recoil rebuilt after a year, but only $45 dollars installed.
I really like that easy start.

[Dragline]

I have the 545 with autotune.  No decompression does suck, but mine usually only takes 3 pulls to start first thing in the  morning,  then starts with the first pull for the rest of the day.  I always use my foot to hold it when starting.  I tried drop starting,  but that was hard on my shoulder 

[Gary_C]

My local dealer is a real good guy and I have talked to him a number of times and he will take the saw back in trade but I really don't want to switch to another size and I had plenty of chains for this one too. There is no Stihl dealer close so I am hoping to stick with this saw. 

Perhaps I will try to make some type of fixture to hold the saw down with my foot while starting. I am going to run the saw back into the dealer today because it will not idle continuously, it keeps shutting down all the time and that makes the problem worse though it does start easier when warmed up. 

[Spike60]

Gary, best solution for you is to replace the starter internals with the spring assist stuff from the 545M2. Night and day difference. Part number for the kit is 599 289 201. 

[barbender]

People always mock the idea, but I think a modification that would allow a cordless drill to start a saw would be great for all of us when the shoulders get worn out. We had a gas trimmer, I never had a problem starting it but my wife and daughter fought it continually. Makes a mundane chore into an overwhelming hassle!

[Big_eddy]

For cold starting my 562xp, I crouch and place my right knee on the pad on the filter cover to hold the saw down, rather than a foot in the handle. Works for me. For the 550, Spike's suggestion is the best. 

I've never had a flooding problem with an Autotune saw though. My old and new 562s need different techniques restarting when warm, but neither floods. (Older likes fast idle, newer prefers not)

[Patrick NC]

Sounds like there's something wrong if it's flooding that easy.  I have a 550 that I bought new last year and it always starts on the 2nd or 3rd pull. You have to use the primer bulb if it's cold. 5-7 pumps. I will agree that it pulls hard for a 50cc saw. 

[Log-it-up]

How long have you had it could it use a air filter cleaning or new one, I know it's a auto tune but still a two stroke maybe hit high rev right be you shut it off for a couple seconds could be loading up at the low end idle ,like Ixskllr said maybe put your axe handle through the trigger guard and stand on it I've had good luck with that

[Southside]

I don't know if this works with an auto tune saw but with my 372's I will slow roll the cord out three times or so. Literally just, burp, burp, burp. No effort, no attempt to start the saw. Just getting some steel lubricated and a little vapor into the chamber. After that I pull to start the saw, at most it may take three pulls when dead cold. If it has run at all recently it will go on the first pull every time. 

[Gary_C]

Gary, best solution for you is to replace the starter internals with the spring assist stuff from the 545M2. Night and day difference. Part number for the kit is 599 289 201.

Thanks for the information. Took the saw in to the dealer today and asked him about the spring assist kit and he knew nothing about it but as he said he was happy to learn something today. Ordered a kit and we will see when it comes in. Neither of us is sure what it is or how it works but we will both find out when it arrives. Seems rather surprising there is some spring starting kit available and the dealers have not been told. Again, thank you Spike60 for the heads up.

I still can't get over having to hook the saw up to their computer for any adjustments but that's exactly what they did and updated the firmware. He said the saw only had 2.xx hours on it and they reset the idle. When I got home I blocked up a half dead yard tree I took down two days ago and the dead limbs went straight into the wood stove as I am out of wood for this season and our mild spring weather has left us for now. Even wet wood is better than $5 fuel oil. 

I am sure most of my starting problems are from my inability to both hold the saw so it does not move and pull hard on the rope at the same time. If the saw moves while pulling it actually gets harder to pull the rope and even snaps the rope handle right out of my hand. I suspect it is firing early and then gets even harder to pull. Lately I have been able to do better by setting the saw on a low block of wood and putting my knee on the pad on the filter cover. I may also try making a board with a piece of 2 x 4 bolted on to fit thru the handle. 

[Spike60]

I think you'll find the kit to be a big help. We sell a lot of 545's to us older guys for that very reason. I have seen customers that can no longer start their current saw be able to fire up the 545. It will be as easy, if not easier to start than your 2149 with the deco was.

Dealers don't necessarrily have to be "told" everything. Sometimes you just have to discover stuff for yourself. Maybe he's not selling the 545, which mostly becomes a revelant model because of the starter. The 545 IPL shows both starters, but the 550 may only show the standard starter.

BTW, why couldn't the 2149 be fixed? Would be a good candidate to drop a 2153, (346) cylinder on.

[beenthere]

Gary_C
Reminds me of a 50cc saw (Stihl 250) that would give a good kick like that, snapping the pull handle out of my hand quite often. 

I learned that I needed to pull slowly until the piston "dead-headed" (maybe incorrect term). Then I could give it a sharp, quick pull and not get that painful kickback. 

Now have the autotune Stihl 261 and have not had any trouble running that saw for a couple years. But the habit of pulling rope over to a tight spot still lingers.

Hope the kit works good for you. 

[Gary_C]

BTW, why couldn't the 2149 be fixed? Would be a good candidate to drop a 2153, (346) cylinder on.

If I remember right, the case was bad and leaking. It would run only if you dumped gas right in the carb. I put in a new fuel line first and then a new carb but it still would not draw gas. So I then took it in and my local dealer took it apart and said he would not fix it as the bottom end was leaking. He gave me credit back for the carb and did not charge me for taking it apart so I put the saw to rest. It needed some other work so I think it did not owe me anymore. 

I think I bought that saw at a logging show many years ago and I went thru a couple of bars and probably a dozen chains on that saw so it did not owe me anything. I kept my bar and chains and went to the pro series 550XP so I would not have that case problem again plus my bar and spare chains fit too.

[ButchC]

I own an early 550 and it has a compression release. I didn't know they had been deleted. I wonder if they just plugged the hole? Pull the top cover and look for a plug on the top of the head, right side. If so all you need is the release from an earlier version and the top cover.

[Spike60]

Totally different top end on the M2 saws; no hole for a deco. The new saws also have some different coil technology in that they fire at a lower RPM than the older saws.

Decos are a double edge sword in that they make the saw easier to pull over, but at the same time are dropping your compression about 25 psi at the same time. OK on a saw that is still at peak compression. But on an older saw that is getting tired it might drop to where the saw doesn't even want to start at all. Honestly, on a new saw that hasn't yet broken in you could be getting close to 130 psi below which you don't want to be.

Gary, you do have yourself a good dealer there.

On flooding in these situations, repeated pulls that fail to start the saw are still drawing fuel even if they aren't quick enough to fire the saw. Very often they land on the counter with a wet muffler and the choke still pulled out. "How many times did you pull that with the choke on?" "Oh, at least a couple dozen" is often the answer. "Yup, she's soaked. Probably have as much gas in the crankcase as in the fuel tank."

Dumb comments like that are reserved for customers that I know of course. But i always use plurals like "we" and "us" when talking about starting issues when getting older. Can be a delicate topic and you don't want to embarass the customer by taking the saw outside and starting it on one pull either.

[Unclefish]

If you look up online the 550xp carb fix that might help your flood problem.  I have not done mine yet cause my 4 month old 550xp has been performing great for me. First start I do pump the ball 9 times . Mine most of time don't even have to choke if it doesn't cool off that much. 

[SwampDonkey]

I use one here Gary to cut all my firewood, and I use a short 16" bar on mine because I'm not cutting huge trees. Haven't had any trouble in 3 years. But yes, they take getting used to as to starting them. I talked to a local logger and he says the same, but he also likes his. That start/choke switch is one convoluted invention for sure. :D I usually put the brake on, pump 5 times, and within 4-5 pulls she's off. But it takes some throttling once going to 'wake up". Did from day one. :D I like the power and just the right size for me. It's more rugged built than the home market saws for sure.

[Gary_C]

Gary, best solution for you is to replace the starter internals with the spring assist stuff from the 545M2. Night and day difference. Part number for the kit is 599 289 201.

My dealer ordered the kit, it came in and he put the kit in for me. I've used it a couple of times and Spike60 is exactly right. It's a night and day difference. I'm not sure how or why it works but I am happy with that saw now. Thanks again to Spike60 for the recommendation. 

After seeing the difference first hand, I'm not sure why that part does not come on all new 550 XP's.

[Spike60]

Glad to have been able to help Gary.

That type of spring assist starter has been available on other saws and trimmers for a while now. Pretty much all homeowner applications. I doubt it will ever be a problem for you, but it is another part that can break occasionaly. Pro guys running 550's that "repair" a broken rope by tying another knot and running it short until they tear it up would be a little hard on that spring.   But I have done this conversion for pros who climb with 550's and they really do appreciate the improvement.