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Author Topic: BUILDING RUSTIC LOG CABIN  (Read 2499 times)

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Offline btmsx

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« on: October 23, 2009, 10:25:28 PM »
Hi all, I want to build a rustic log cabin in the woods behind my house. I have 32 acres of long leaf pine, about 15 years old. They have never been thinned due to everyone I have asked so far to thin them, have wanted me to pay them instead of the other way around. My pines are THICK, not in diameter, but in quantity. Most are about, if felled, 30' long and probably 4" on the usable short end, (top). The bases of most would be about 6" to 8". I have a LOGASOL chainsaw attachment on a HUSKY 385 XP. I built my own guide rail with an aluminum bleacher seat, (14'). I adjust up and down with scaffold screw jacks, a total of 3. I have the footers in the ground. I used treated 6X6 posts in concrete 8' apart, and want the finished cabin to be 16'X16". I have a total of 9 footers. What I need to know is, should I cut "D" logs, square, or just cut two sides? Also, let me mention, I am building this cabin for my cousin. He hunts my property whenever there is something in season and my wife wants him to have his on place to stay when he comes up from Augusta. I don't want to take the time to dry the logs. I want to cut them down, saw them, corner notch (like Lincoln logs), and stack them. Pretty much, my cousin will be pulling them off the sawmill stripping the bark (if any), and building the cabin. Has anyone done this before? I know in the "old days", they didn't let logs or lumber sit for years when building a cabin or barn. They cut trees and prepped them and built the structure. I will try and post pics of my setup over the weekend. Thanks in advance for the information and advise.

Offline wkheathjr

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« Reply #1 on: October 28, 2009, 10:42:28 PM »
I am no expert, but I think you can get it done 'green' but most likely going to do pretty good number of maintenance in next 10-12 years if your cousin end up using heater on the inside and it can cause logs to shrink.  I hear that there is 10% shrink allowance but that is in TF and a guy(from workshop) who built log home said 33% shrink allowance?

As for the shape, go with whatever you like.  If you want to make it easier on the maintenance, I probably would go with square and use dovetail as butt/notch but be sure you peg them corner very well so it will hold together especially when shrinking.  Don't forget to screw logs together in zig zag manner and if need, holes for electric wire so it will look good.

Remember, that is just an opinion of mine and I am not a professional.  Just basing this on common sense...

Offline jander3

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« Reply #2 on: October 29, 2009, 01:01:26 PM »
Geen logs shrink about 3/4 inch per foot of wall height.  (i.e. a wall that is 6' tall green, will end up  at 5' 7.5" once it dried. A building takes about 3 years to settle.  You have to account for the settling with extra space above your doors and windows and screw jacks for any vertical supports.

Since your logs are small and you plan to notch the logs, you might want leave them round.  You get them quite close and then chink any gaps (trapper cabin style).  This type of building goes up quite quickly.


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