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Woodmaster Planer/Molder

Started by DR Buck, February 02, 2005, 11:33:57 PM

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DR Buck

Does anyone know of a guide or book  :P on techniques or methods to do various molding cuts using a Woodmaster 718 ?   Just got my new 718, have yet to power it up as I need to change the 220V outlet to a different type for the unit.   

I was surprised  :o to see (or not see)very little "how to" information in the user manual.   For example, you can get tung & groove cutters for it, but how do you support the boards if you have to stand them up on the sides to run them through the machine.  Some sort of jig I would presume? ???  There must lots of tricks for using the different cutters, but how do you find out what they are?  ??? ??? ???
Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

edsaws

DR_Buck go to www.moldingknives.com and download the profile cataloge and on page 76 it shows how to set up to run TG. I've bought a few cutters off them and will again I'm sure. Hope this helps Ed

FeltzE

I've got an RBI similar to your woodmaster.

To run various moldings you will have to install guide rails or use a setup board for each molding width. If you are making T&G boards you will have to make a jig to feed the boards through on edge.

Using a setup board like mdf you can glue and screw a guide board on one side of your molding blank, then screw the other side down with only a few hundredths of an inch extra space to prevent binding, you may also have to trim the guide boards short of the feed rollers. If you want to run your guide boards completly through the machine you will have to dado out the point where the feed rollers come down to prevent them from scrubbing the guides.

Using longer guide rails setup board will help to keep the molding blank straight in the machine especially as you run to the end of the blank.

Using slow feed speeds will produce better finishes, using multiple passes to reduce the depth of material removal will reduce the possibility of tear out as well.

If you use multiple passes to get the required depth of cut, run your stock through in batches, then adjust the depth between batches instead of individual pieces. This will reduce your adjusting the machine and result in all pieces being exactly the same thickness.

Eric

Jason_WI

Running T&G on you woodmaster will probably shorten the life of the rubber rollers. I have an old 612 RBI that I have run molding through. Slow feed and about 3 passes depending on how much material is being removed. I have converted my 2 speed planer to infinite variable speed from 1 foot per minute to 40 feet per minute using a 90V DC gear motor and a PWM controller I bought from Suplus Center. I also converted it to chain drive on the feed rollers so no more slippage from that wimpy A size belt Slow but it can be done. I am drooling over a Logosol......

Jason
Norwood LM2000, 20HP Honda, 3 bed extentions. Norwood Edgemate edger. Gehl 4835SXT

logosoluser

IN defense of Woodmaster, I just got a new model 712 and it came with a book that very clearly explained how to build a fence for tongue and groove boards. It came with a guide fence system as well for moulding. You should have gotten those things with your machine as well. That was part of the deal when I bought mine.

Will_Johnson

You should have gotten a molding profile book with your machine, showing about 500 molding patterns. This also has pretty detailed instructions about making T&G. If you didn't get this with your machine call us at 1-800-821-6651 and we will get one right out to you.

If you're really going to get serious about T&G, I would suggest that you consider our power-platform and router attachment. It's a much more efficient way to make the T&G. Not trying to "up sell" you, just trying to point out another useful option for acheieving your goal.

Best,

Will Johnson, President
Woodmaster Tools

MemphisLogger

Will!

I didn't know we had our own Woodmaster representative here on the FF--the president of the company to boot.  ;D

I'm seriously considering your 25" planer/moulder/sander with the router gizmo and extra feed roller.  :P

It's that or a 4 head 4"x8" Vonnegut that a machinery dealer friend of mone needs to find a home for.  :-\

I have many custom sawing customers every year that have me saw site trees for  flooring and molding in their new houses. Of course, I'd like to do that moulding for them instead of sending them down the street ;-)

How efficiently would your machine do 1000-4000 sq foot runs of random width T$G? I know the Vonnegut would put it out fast but I'd like the sanding and wide planing capacity that your tool seems to offer.

Also, my friend with the Vonnegut is willing to set me up with it when I have 2 or 3 jobs lined up to pay for it. Do you guys offer 90 or 120 days same as cash or a lease option?

Thanks! 
Scott Banbury, Urban logger since 2002--Custom Woodworker since 1990. Running a Woodmizer LT-30, a flock of Huskies and a herd of Toy 4x4s Midtown Logging and Lumber Company at www.scottbanbury.com

DR Buck

Thanks for all the replys.   Finally got round to reading   :P  All the stuff that came with the 718 and whad da ya know......how to information for tong & groove!  ;D ;D ;D

Finally powered it up yesterday and ran thru a few walnut boards that I've had stacked on the garage rafters for the last 8 years.   Only thing I had dry.  Man thay turned out nice  I think I'm gonna like this machine!

Will, I considered the power platform, but right now I've spent enough $$$$ for a while.  ;D     Ordered my Nyle kiln today!.  ;D ;D ;D       I'm sure I'll add the power attachment in the next year or so. But, now I've got to get some wood dry and order molding cutters next.
Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

SawDust_Studios

I've had great success with my 718, but I'm getting ready to sell it only to separate machines (planer/ molder).

If money wasn't a concern, I'd keep it for the planer alone, as it is a wonderful machine. 

One suggestion I would make is that I would upgrade to the harder rubber feed rollers as the ones that come with the woodmaster seem to be a bit softer and more for finish work.  I think the harder ones work better with the molding knives.  Also, I added a UHMW(sp?) bed to mine, which is a godsend, but I think they now come with that.   

Dave
Making Sawdust on a Woodmizer LT40SHD CAT 51 /WM Twin Blade Edger and WM DH Kiln

Gary_B

My Mdl 718 came with a poly bed, and it works wonderful, I had the 718 for a year and finally set the gang saw up the other day, I could not believe how easy it was to set up and how nice it worked. The woodmaster is a fine example of Made In the USA.
                                                       Gary

SawDust_Studios

Will,

Are there any plans to add a spiral cutterhead to the Woodmaster line?

Dave
Making Sawdust on a Woodmizer LT40SHD CAT 51 /WM Twin Blade Edger and WM DH Kiln

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