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23" Ft on a 21" bed

Started by music_boy, January 04, 2005, 04:07:18 PM

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music_boy

     I have a potential customer that wants to replace some bad beams in his barn. Doesn't want to splice and the beams so they need to be 23'. I can cut 21 with my WM. Is it feasable, and relatively safe, to raise the log on the rollers, and push or pull the log through the rest of the way? :P
     The obvious concern is the log on the first cut, at least, rolling to one side. Seems like after ther first cut, and you get the cant on the flat side, it might be o.k. I realize the clamp will have to be loose enough to slide the log. I guessing the weight of the cant\log will hold.  Customer wants  4x6 and 6x8 s.
     Thanks
Rick
It's not how much YOU love, it is how much you ARE loved that matters. (Wizard of OZ)

Bibbyman

Got you covered.  I've even documented how it's done in the Knowledge Base.

Sawing logs longer than mill

I don't know how it can be done on mills other than WM.

Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

WH_Conley

Bibbyman, I like that better than the way I been doing it. I might not be the sharpest tack in the box, but show me an easier way and I sure won't argue.
Bill

Ga_Boy

Rick,

Give me a shout if you need material handling help.

Them good ol' boys dawn at H. Gadner went a loaned me a set of clip on forks till my pin-on fork lift attachment gets here.

This past week end I discovered the need of forklift attachment.  I still have not moved all those slabs from the milling last week and Debbie wants them moved.  I hope to get to that this afternoon.  It looks like we got some rain, but I think that this afternoon it should be dry enough to pull the tractor out.




Mark
10 Acers in the Blue Ridge Mountains

Swede

QuoteI don't know how it can be done on mills other than WM.

 :D ;) Sorry but........ Hope I soon can find a 36´  long log and try that on Amerika-Sågen ( 18´ 4-poster) Shure I can do it!  8)

I have rollers in both ends and 2" over the bed + 2 round bars to hold the log up by hydraulic. Also need someting to hold the log up outside the frame ends. Then working as written in the knewledge base. Thank you!

Think the weight will be the big problem beside finding that long logs. ::)

Swede.

PS. YES, I´ll take photos....... :)
Had a mobile band sawmill, All hydraulics  for logs 30\"x19´, remote control. (sold it 2009-04-13)
Monkey Blades.Sold them too)
Jonsered 535/15\". Just cut firewood now.

music_boy

Thanks Bibbyman,
      I like that. I'm gonna start me a note book with techniques like that for future reference.
Rick
It's not how much YOU love, it is how much you ARE loved that matters. (Wizard of OZ)

Bibbyman

That's kind of what the Knowlege base if for. ::)

We all need to put more into it so we can all get more out of it.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Swede

Bibbyman and others; How long logs have you sawn and on how long frame?
Did you do as written om knowledge base or by another method?

Think sawing long logs can be used in marketing.


Swede.
Had a mobile band sawmill, All hydraulics  for logs 30\"x19´, remote control. (sold it 2009-04-13)
Monkey Blades.Sold them too)
Jonsered 535/15\". Just cut firewood now.

Bibbyman

Our LT40 Super has a 21' frame (max log length).  We've sawn logs as long as 28' using this method.  We don't like to do it.  It takes time - but if you only have to do a couple once in a while,  it can be done.

There is money in sawing the long stuff.  If you were going to do it all the time,  get an extension.  Most mills can accommodate extensions.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Minnesota_boy

If you plan on sawing logs much longer than your mill, be sure to put some kind of support under the end hanging out.  Unsupported pine logs can bow down as much as 1/2 inch  when hanging as little as 3 feet (1 meter) beyond the support.  That bend is sometimes offset by an upward bend inside the support.  
I eat a high-fiber diet.  Lots of sawdust!

spencerhenry

last year i milled a couple of big beams on my lt40. 23' 8x18, and 23' 8x14. i dont know what everbody else does, but here is how i do it.
 start the log as close to the operator end as possible. run the saw head down to the farthest it will cut ( above the log). mark that spot and cut with a chainsaw down to where the cut will be. that will allow you to get the blade out. make your first cut, and remove the slab. bring the saw head back, turn the log over and put the flat down. repeat the process again. raise the sawhead and bring it back. raise the log on the rollers and bring it far enough back to complete the cut. turn it over and finish the other side. now repeat that and you are done.
 was alot easier than it sounds. and i charged alot more extra than i needed. $1875/mbf for 8x18x23'

Bibbyman

Just to complicate things,  sawing beams is one thing,  sawing long lumber is another.  The obvious problem is,  you just can't cut off where the blades stops.

The 28' stuff we were talking about were actually 2x10s 28' long.  We sawed about 50 of them.  

We still used the same method as posted in the Knowledge Base. Had to turn the cant 180 for each board as you have to unclamp and slide the cant back to finish the cut.  Also,  it was sycamore and had quite a bit of stress.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

WH_Conley

A variation of Sprucebunny's method is to make your cut with mill, kick mill out of gear, drvie a wegde in cut then back up sawhead slightly and cut slab with chainsaw, if not comfortable you could use sawzall. I have always sidestepped the lumber issue. All anybody ever wanted that long was barn posts.
Bill

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