Manjisann's Chainsaw Milling Adventures

[thecfarm]

Sometimes pounding the nail in,just a little,will help with the removal.

[ManjiSann]

Should I leave the boards as wide as they come off the log or is it ok to rip them down to roughly the correct width? I'm thinking the smaller they are the faster they will dry?

Thickness is what will determine how long it takes your lumber to dry, the thicker it is the longer it takes as water evaporates from the outer surface first and then moves from the center of the lumber out to the face.  There are other factors such as species, temperature, humidity, wind velocity, number of chickens sacrificed, etc but just trying to answer the question you had posed.  

Is there a standard number of chickens per board foot I need to know about?  
I think 1/2" over the two dimensions will hopefully be enough. As I gain more experience and confidence perhaps I can shrink that down but for my first go around I think it's better to err on the side of caution and waste a bit of wood to saw dust than to try and cut it closer and end up with a lot of designer firewood  :(
Brandon

For flat 1" lumber I generally saw 3/8" over target thickness, as far as width goes generally it's an inch over if 8" and under and something more than that for over 8". This allows for both shrink and movement while still getting my target size almost 100% of the time.

Thank you    Gives me a decent idea of what I need to do. I think the biggest is 6" wide so I'll rip it at 7" just to be on the safe side.
Brandon 

[ManjiSann]

@ManjiSann
How do you remove particularly stuck in nails? I was able to remove two of them but the third is almost all the way in and won't budge :( The nails are almost 3" long so I really hate to leave it in and cut around it if I can avoid doing so.

What I have done is usually I take my little gerber  pocket knife and whittle a little divit around the nail sort of like a counter sunk woodscrew head, then I grab vice grips and try and get a good enough bite to pull it out. If that fails depending on the heft of the nail I take a drill bit and drill on all four sides of it removing wood around the head till I get a good enough bite to pull it.  I have used a torx bit and a screw to loosen the wood around a nail as well.  Yes it will booger up the piece  but you can probably fix that well enough. Still wrestling with the quote thing.

Sometimes pounding the nail in,just a little,will help with the removal.

Thank you both for the ideas!  Gives me something to try. 
Brandon 

[ManjiSann]

Ok, I'm over my self pity party and I'm ready to fight the weather for the joy of milling  8)

Going to buy a Cobalt drill bit to try and finish the hole in the bar tip. It'll give me about 2" more of width which is helpful. I seem to remember drilling a hardened firearm bolt using a cobalt bit and a lot of cooling fluid (seriously miss that little mill set up sometimes.) It only has to drill through less than 1/8" of the bar, probably less as I was able to get it through a ways before it went to pot. I was a bit cocky and didn't use enough cutting fluid and used the same metal backer I used for the last couple holes which still had the hole so I can only figure it air/work hardened. Fingers crossed the cobalt bit will do the trick.

When the weather decides to win the arm wrestling match I need to weld up a cant hook. I have some 3/4" schedule 40 iron pipe I plan to use as the handle and an assortment of 1/8" to 1/2" metal I can cut and use for the hook and connections. It'll be a bit on the weighty side but it has one important feature... I already have all the supplies so the price is right  ;D

Brandon 

[btulloh]

I wouldn't recommend making your own cant hook. 

[zimraphail]

I make knives. Most often out of o1 tool steel! I do heat and slow cool prior to drilling handle pins! Other wise, no way will stip cobalt as well! Sometimes I have to resharpen cobalt a few times to get it done but so far ok with allot of cooling fluid! Heat when drilling tool stell makes it even harder!   Afgter pins and rough grinding then I oil harden and Aneil

[Ljohnsaw]

I have some 3/4" schedule 40 iron pipe I plan to use as the handle

I have a Logrite 60" cant hook.  It has at least a 1", if not 1¼" handle.  Very comfortable and reasonably light.  I've put my full 200+ pounds jumping on it to rotate a log.  I've bent plenty of ¾" water pipe doing much less work than my Logrite does.  If you insist on doing it with materials on hand, I'd go with a bigger pipe for the handle.

[ManjiSann]

I wouldn't recommend making your own cant hook.

Why's that?
Brandon 

[Southside]

You simply can't over state the value of a genuine Log Rite Peavey or Canthook. I used to have the old wooden handle ones and broke every one eventually. 

Of all the things you can make for yourself, that should not be on the list. It is a tool you will have for many years. 

[SawyerTed]

i agree that there are some things to be fabricated at home and there's things that should be purchased from a manufacturer who has figured out the materials and geometry.  A cant hook is one item to be purchased rather than made.  The value of well made and functional cant hooks (or peavys if you prefer) can't be overstated.  The last thing you want is to be trying to get a job done and break/bend your homemade or economy cant hook.  

I know what you are doing is a hobby but the "buy once cry once" mantra applies to cant hooks.  I'm sure if you could put your hands on a Logrite you would know exactly what we mean.

[btulloh]

What they said. 

It's hard to achieve functionality OR safety in the design and fab, much less both. A failure in a cant hook can lead to broken legs or worse. There are a lot of forces at play when moving logs. 

Sch 40 3/4 is pretty much like a pool noodle for that application. 

Both the stihl and woodmizer cant hooks are Logrite. Probably some other brands too. You might be able to look at one at a local stihl dealer. A real dealer, not the box store. 

[hacknchop]

 While I agree that the Logrite canthook is a good product ,I disagree with the running down of every other canthook or peavey , I know they are a Forum sponsor and I thank them for that and if I am ever buying a canthook they can count on my business but I have got by my whole life with wooden handled hooks and never broke one using it as a log rolling tool.
  Maybe your not able to make your own but that dose not mean someone else cannot make a good canthook , live and learn and if your not successfull then yes buy one made by Logrite tried and proven , I have made two with steel handles one with a 48" and the other a 60" I have never broke either one and yes they are heavy and clumsy but then again so am I. 

[JoshNZ]

I can't even find one for sale here in NZ so will prob have to make one. Let us know how you go if you do!

[ManjiSann]

Wow, didn't expect the home made cant hook to spark such a response 

I would LOVE to buy a Logrite cant hook, I've looked at them and they do look worth every penny and I would very much like to support a forum sponsor as without them this forum wouldn't be what it is. The problem is I don't have the funds for such a piece of equipment, sorry I don't wish to come off as poor or garner sympathy nor do I wish to keep trumpeting the sad situation that is my wallet but it's the reality I am in at the moment. I only point it out so you understand some of why I do what I do. Perhaps in a few months or a year I will have the money to buy the good equipment. I do subscribe to the "Buy Once Cry Once" philosophy on many many things, I bought the Husky chainsaw even though it was a painful hit to the pocket book. I really don't have the money for a quality cant hook right now so my options as I see it are to do nothing till I have said money (it's not really an option as I don't sit still or wait patiently well), continue on with nothing but my back and hands and perhaps a 2x4 and strap to roll logs, or I attempt to build one which I have no illusions will not be up to the quality of one designed by people who know what they are doing and I have no doubt have spent a LOT of money in R&D but which will at least get me by for the time being and is hopefully better than nothing. 

I realize the above paragraph could be misread as me ranting or getting snarky, I apologize for any of this and assure all of those who posted " just buy the Logrite" I 110% appreciate and thank you for taking the time to post your thoughts and experiences. If I am frustrated or annoyed, it is not with you fine members but with the circumstances I am in that do not allow me to buy what I want or even need. 

I appreciate everyone pointing out that the Sch 40 pipe won't work, I'll scrap that idea. I'll have to find stronger tube/pipe. 

On another topic, I bought the cobalt drill bit and tried to finish drilling the hole in the sprocket... zimraphail was spot on. I did read about a nifty trick to spot aneal where you take a metal rod the same diameter, heat it red hot then stick it on the spot and let it all cool down as slowly as possible. I'm tempted to try that but I wonder if it'd damage the bearings in the sprocket. At the moment I'm debating using a dremel with a grinder bit of some sort (I have a lot of them, just need to see if one of them will work for this application) or just carrying on with the mill only being about 16" wide. Do I spend the time on trying to get 2" more or do I spend the time on milling... hmmm decisions decisions. 

Brandon

[ManjiSann]

I can't even find one for sale here in NZ so will prob have to make one. Let us know how you go if you do!

Josh, given your fabricating abilities I have no doubt if you make one it'll be top notch!
Brandon

[Southside]

I don't see your reply as snarky or anything like that.  After I broke my last wooden handle one, which of course happened as I lay into it standing on a pile of logs and tumbled to the bottom with a now sharp stick flying at my face, I was looking for a replacement handle and looked at the Log Rite since so many folks raved about them. Had the same response you did - can't afford it, but my wife said since so many guys talk about how good they are and how much just a replacement handle would cost for my old one - knowing it will break again - she convinced me to buy one.  I married a smart woman.  

The response you got is probably because each and every one of us have been where you are and understand what you are doing, nothing more than passing along experience is all it is.  

[btulloh]

I wasn't trying to disparage or discourage.  Just trying to say there's more to it than meets the eye and the consequences of failure can be significant.  

You may want to make a small bench and sell it to finance the cant hook.  Then you're working on your ultimate goal and it may be a better use of your time.  I like to fab stuff too, and I've done many things that weren't always the best payoff on my time.  I guess the older I get, the more I try to make better choices.  I can make more money, but I can't make more time.

Have fun, and stay safe.

[ManjiSann]

The response you got is probably because each and every one of us have been where you are and understand what you are doing, nothing more than passing along experience is all it is.

That's how I'm taking it and really do appreciate everyone taking the time to pass along their wisdom and experience. 

You may want to make a small bench and sell it to finance the cant hook.

Can I make a bench with green wood? I would be concerned it would check and twist as it dried :(

I understand what everyone is saying, need to be smart and stay safe. It would be pretty foolish to "save" $100 only to be injured by a log.

Brandon

[ManjiSann]

I decided to grind out the sprocket hole. I guess I really want that extra length in milling

From the beginning - I started out using a Titanium coated HSS drill bit, I think this was a mistake :(



Was able to get about half way through on either side but then no further  >:(



I don't know if starting off with a Cobalt bit would have made a difference but I have one now so I'll have to try it in the future and see.

Got the dremel and some grinding bits out and went to town. Hooray there's light at the end of the tunnel!



Almost there! The tape is covering the grease hole to try and minimize the grit that gets in



After maybe an hours time we have success!!!



Now I'm off to HF to buy the cheapy metal detector. I don't want to spend the money but I either buy the detector and hopefully find the metal with that or at some point I'll find it with my chains which will add up quick  :(

Hopefully I can get some milling done today

Brandon 

[JoshNZ]

I wonder if the sprocket was too hard in the middle or if you cooked it on your way in haha. Those stainless nuts I had to drill to roll pin for the top of my stabiliser leg/jack's all went good except for one. Even running flood coolant over the drill bit if you let up the pressure for even a moment and it starts rubbing, it's over! I find it incredible that something you were peeling chips out of like soft cheese a moment ago can turn the tips of even your hardest newest drills to mush once it's gone.

Interesting trick with the hot rod, might be handy to know.

I've been stuck doing projects on the cheap, get into it! Better making one then not having one

[ManjiSann]

I find it incredible that something you were peeling chips out of like soft cheese a moment ago can turn the tips of even your hardest newest drills to mush once it's gone.

I wonder if I let up for that moment and that's when it hardened ???  It is amazing how as you say you're going great then wham, it's like trying to drill through diamond.

Interesting trick with the hot rod, might be handy to know.

I haven't tried it, just read about it, so can't say if it works or not.

I've been stuck doing projects on the cheap, get into it! Better making one then not having one

That seems to sum my life up some days :D

Brandon 

[ManjiSann]

I think I flooded the carb so saw won't start. No big deal, been going hard for a couple hours and can use the break. Figure while I'm letting my back relax and the water rehydrate me I'd post pics

Using the ladder for the first cut. I'm really glad I took the time to get those extra couple inches, the ladder is nice to use as it makes entering and exiting the cut pretty easy



I don't really want to drill a lot of holes in the ladder as I worry it'd ruin it's "straightness" so I'm trying to be sparing on the holes



In case anyone was wondering what the ladder was for. Admittedly the saw is held level when in use



First cut done! Went pretty smooth



Or so I thought... there was a chunk of metal in there.. I went over it with the metal detector before I cut and didn't see anything but I'm willing to chalk it up to user error as I'm new to using one and still figuring it out.



Luckily it only grazed it and boogered the teeth on one side. So I got a jump on changing the angle to that of a ripping chain  ;)  Gotta love when life forces those choices for you





I'm prepared for milling... or the zombie apocalypse... or both. I haven't been wearing a mask but am tired of coughing dust for a few days after. It just can't be good for my lungs



The wood is really pretty



Is the crack running up the center of the log Shake or is this normal? I figure I'll cut it out when I rip the boards to rough width before I sticker and stack them.



The sawdust from this one log has pretty well filled one of my trash cans. If I mill tomorrow I'll have to bag it and maybe make a run to the landfill Saturday after work.

So far I have 5 5/4 boards. Need one more then it's on to cutting the 8/4 ones. So long as the crack down the middle of the boards doesn't cause too many problems I think this one log should yield what I need to two chairs next summer  8) 8)

Brandon 

[YellowHammer]

Looks good. 
The crack is pith check.  It's pretty much in all hardwood logs.  So when making live edge slabs, when sawing through it, the one large slab will end up being two narrower slabs when the wood is dried.

When I was using a ladder, I drilled a couple holes through the rungs, and put screws through the rungs into the bark.  

[doc henderson]

As usual, @YellowHammer  "hit the nail on the head".




... sorry, too soon :D ?  this is why in slabs, guys will try to "center the pith"  inside the slab.  when setting up to saw, if there is a prominent crack across the pith, you can try to make it parallel to the ground so it only is contained in one slab and not all.  

[ManjiSann]

Looks good.
The crack is pith check.  It's pretty much in all hardwood logs.  So when making live edge slabs, when sawing through it, the one large slab will end up being two narrower slabs when the wood is dried.

When I was using a ladder, I drilled a couple holes through the rungs, and put screws through the rungs into the bark.  

Good to know about the pith crack
Seriously... drilling holes through the rungs is a great idea! Thanks! I over complicate things sometimes  ;D
Brandon