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saw rig

Started by Peter Drouin, July 05, 2014, 09:32:57 PM

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Peter Drouin

Has anyone taking a belt driven one and made it to a PTO or hydraulic one or one with its own gas engine.
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

North River Energy

Have not done a conversion, but do have a commercially produced, engine-drive unit if you need something to study.

thecfarm

Must be bunches on you tube. The hard part is they go by so many names.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Peter Drouin

Quote from: North River Energy on July 05, 2014, 10:05:37 PM
Have not done a conversion, but do have a commercially produced, engine-drive unit if you need something to study.



Dose it have a flywheel on it? I would think it would need that to keep the blade speed up throughout the cut.





Quote from: thecfarm on July 05, 2014, 10:06:47 PM
Must be bunches on you tube. The hard part is they go by so many names.

True, but to me a sawrig. :D :D
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

North River Energy

32" blade, 16hp, direct v-belt drive (no clutch).

No flywheel other than the one on the motor.  Works just fine, so long as the blade is sharp.

Depending on what you start with, you could do a conversion with a motor, a pair of three groove sheaves, and a set of belts.



 

jcl

There one on craigslist in mass for $700 with 7hp Briggs looks a little under powers to me
New Holland Tc45d
jonsered cs 2159
CB. Maxim
block buster   processor

Dave Shepard

A friend of mine took a 3 point hitch one and put a 5 or 7.5 HP electric motor on it. Works well.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Peter Drouin

Well, It seems no one has done this before. :D :D :D
I'll put up some pics when I have it going.
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

DeerMeadowFarm

I've done it. My FIL has one as well. Mine has a 10 HP no additional flywheel. My FIL's has a 7 HP with no additional flywheel. I think it would be helpful though because sometimes I need to make a few attempts to get through a piece of wood. I attached a picture of mine below; it's kinda dark but I can take more if you need specifics.

Beenthere posted this up a week or so ago: https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,76068.0.html and frankly I think this is a better/safer way to go. I am going to try to build one of these soon.

My saw rig (these pictures only show one belt but I run it with 2):


 



 

DeerMeadowFarm

I ran the saw for a while this weekend. It performed flawlessly! I had a large pile of limbs from a huge white oak I had dropped this past spring. Anything under 5 1/2" or so in diameter went through easily, anything bigger took two shots at it.

tractorman44

Quote from: Peter Drouin on July 05, 2014, 09:32:57 PM
Has anyone taking a belt driven one and made it to a PTO or hydraulic one or one with its own gas engine.

A few years back I was given this particular rig.  It originally was driven with a stationary engine and flat belt and was pegged to the ground with steel rods.  To make it mobile, I fabbed a makeshift 3 pt "A" frame out of scrap iron and used a 1 to 1 gear box off of a John Deere haybine to transfer the power.  I've got a number of fairly good pictures, but I'm having trouble figuring out the picture posting thing..... Would someone give me a hint of how to do it?  I'm on a Chromebook if that helps....and all my pictures are uploaded to an off site photo hosting service.


tractorman44

Well, I've determined they must be placed in the Forestry Forum photo gallery, but I don't know how to get them there....from the off site photo-hosting service. 

Dave Shepard

Welcome to the Forum!

This (I hope) is the photo posting tutorial. There are several methods for photo uploading. I've never tried to move from a hosting site to the Forum, I've always moved them from the desktop.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

beenthere

Take them from the off site photo-hosting and put them on your computer, and then load them to your gallery from your computer.
If you can get them up on your monitor screen, then can copy them to something like "paint" and save them as a .jpg file for loading.  ... seems to me... ;)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Peter Drouin

I'm working on it :D
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

tractorman44

 

 

With the help of the tutorial in the "Behind the Forum" forum I think I got it now..... Here is the right angle gear box sitting on an angle iron frame, in line with the tractor pto.  The ratio is 1:1 and is off an old John Deere haybine a neighbor scrapped.



 

The angle drive mount was made adjustable by the addition of (4) 3/4" allthread rods to make tracking and alignment of the flat-belt final drive a bit easier.  The vertical mounts for the drives frame was slotted to allow adjustment.



 

The 3 pt "A" frame was made from scrap iron, 1/2" x 2" IIRC.



 

The flat belt runs a bit off center, but I've never welded on a perch for an outside carrier bearing for the output shaft of the right angle drive to rest upon.  Consequently the belt tension exerts moderate pressure on the shaft and the result is it running out a bit.  A winter fix thats not fixed yet....



 

Not having another 8" flat pully, the drive shaft was fitted with (2) identical 2-belt sheaves made for v-belts....The flat belt obviously runs on the OUTSIDE of the pully and surprisingly does not slip a bit.  I pinched the blade in an 8" green sycamore and threw it off one time in the 5 or 6 years since the adaption was made. I had concern that there would be a lack of friction running on the outside like that, but the v-belt sheave was free ....



 

Here you can see the shaft where ultimately the outer carrier bearing will provide additional support to help out the single inner bearing.  Once a bracket is welded in place the shaft excess will then be cut off.  Until then....



 

I like to use it on the little 16 hp Kubota because of the way it sips at fuel however, any category 1 three point tractor can be hooked to it.  I keep a longer pto end for the larger tractors but for the most part it stays hooked up year 'round to this little guy.

The rig works wonderfully well without the addition of a flywheel.  As a matter of fact, I don't have flywheels on any of the other rigs that were either front mounted to a tractor or rear mounted.

Running the tractor at pto speed there is no lack of power as long as the blade is kept touched up and set.  It get a lot of use cutting anything green or dry less than 8" in diameter.  Anything above that is a strain on the operator....(me).

l hope this makeshift saw rig gives you some ideas for whatever it is you want to do with yours, Peter. 


beenthere

Thanks for the pics.
I'd look into using V belts running on the flat pulley to require less pressure to keep from slipping, as the flat belt running on the rims of the drive pulley seems would not work as well. Just an observation, and may not be better.

Throwing the belt when the saw gets jammed is a good fail-safe as you don't appear to have a clutch or a dead-man switch. Or do you not have to walk around the rig to get to the tractor to power the saw down ??

But if it works as is and suits you, then that is all good.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

tractorman44

Well beenthere.... there is no dead man switch and yes, to shut it down I do have to walk around the rig to the throttle and clutch.  Having been working with and around saw rigs cutting pole wood and slab wood since being old enough to off bear, more than 50 years, I've never even given a thought of a way to shut it down in an emergency...  Something to seriously consider though as accidents don't have a history of announcing themselves beforehand.

I was giving consideration to running (4) v-belts, but I didn't know what to expect with 4 individual belts straddling the crown in the flat pully on the sawblades shaft...just as I didn't know what to expect running the flat belting on the outside of the grooves... Plus I'd have to cough up cash for the belts whereas flat belting and lacing was sitting on the shelf.  Yeah, I'm a cheapskate sometimes.... :-\


beenthere

I hear ya...  Maybe you can grind down or have machined down the outside rims of the belt pulley and simulate a crown in it for your flat belt. Just a wild thought.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

johnjbc

LT40HDG24, Case VAC, Kubota L48, Case 580B, Cat 977H, Bobcat 773

goose63

I think I have two flat belt pulleys have three buzz saws gonna fix up one of them if you need one let me know will go measure them
goose
if you find your self in a deep hole stop digging
saw logs all day what do you get lots of lumber and a day older
thank you to all the vets

jason6586

Can anyone tell me if there are any companies in the US or Canada that make new Buzz saws, I am having a hard time finding anything thats not from China or the UK.

Thanks

tractorman44

Can't tell you about newly manufactured ones Jason, if there are any.  But if you check auction zip with saw rig, buzz saw or cut off saw as search words its pretty easy to find the original old ones.  Most of the time, rurally anyway, they go pretty cheap.

Back to the topic of setting the teeth, though not technically the "correct" way to do it, I usea four pound two-face hammer as an anvil and set every other tooth with a small ball pein. Then flip and do the other side... That the way I learned as a kid and have been doing it for years.  Seems to work ok as you are just cutting firewood or sharpening cedar fence posts. 

An old buddy gave me a spring loaded manual saw-set that takes up to 36" diameter, but its not been put to use yet.  The teeth are quite soft and easy to set with a light tap.  After a few it just comes natural...


Peter Drouin

I want to thank all of you for the Ideas :)
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

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