13/64 files vs 7/32

[Nebraska]

Never thought about it until the other day. I run a bunch of what ever 3/8 chains on my various saws. Several brands are represented maybe 1/3 Stihl the rest Oregon  stuff and maybe a few  Carlton. I changed files in my 2 in 1 jig and the two new 7/32 files didn't fit, light bulb moment oh yeah wrong size.. I dug the correct Stihl ones out of my box of chainsaw stuff and switched them out. It got me to thinking if the 1/32" difference in the file diameter made enough difference in the performance of the sharpened  saw chain to matter....Especially after after I've sharpened the oregon/other stuff a couple times with the smaller files...  I have liked the Stihl chains  just a little better but it's another 30 miles to get a new loop, so Oregon is easier to get closer.  I just got to wondering if it was due to the wrong file and my sharpening...... I have the correct size files and a Granberg jig, and  I suppose I could go back to using it for Oregon chain. I just wanted to know if anybody had strong feelings about it. I use my 2n1 usually every other tank of fuel 3 or 4 strokes (unless I hit something bad) and have been pretty happy.

[lxskllr]

I like 13/64. All my 3/8 chain is Stihl, but I'd use 13/64 on anything. I like the smaller size as it allows a bit of tuning for the edge, and fits better when the teeth get small.

[sawguy21]

I started with 7/32 to avoid a 'hook' then switched to 13/64 as the cutter got shorter, I found it worked best for me after a lot of experimenting. Your miledge may vary.

[Nebraska]

I can see how switching down as size as the cutter wears  would be smart.  @sawguy21 did/do  you use a file jig or freehand? Just curious, if I actually  worked in the "Bush" I would practice  freehand but 90% of my cutting is within  100  yards of the shop on various  logs. So no felling.  If I manage to dull or dink my chain I grab a different  saw.

[sawguy21]

I never did get good results freehand other than for a light touchup, I tended to go too deep. The Husky roller guide makes it a lot easier.

[Al_Smith]

An overly "hooked " chain will still cut good but it needs more attention because it dulls quicker .I just use 7/32" on all of the 3/8" and .404 chain .The "working corner " is where it's at .Some brands respond to a 10 degree up and some do better with no compound angle .A former sponsor of this forum had a "house " brand chain they sold at reduced prices that absolutely did not respond to a compound angle ..I'll just say it was not the best chain I've ever owned .--lesson learned ----

[Tacotodd]

I've even "experimented" with  a 1/4" file on a 3/8 chain. IT CUT FAST! I only tried it that 1 time, but it was in my early days of learning how to file. The reason why I quit: I went to the straps WAY to fast. So I never tried it again. 

My point, do your own experiments and see what you like the best and remember: a chain is a consumable. They don't last forever. (nothing last forever, except faith)

[Al_Smith]

1/4" file would take 3/8" chain nearly down on top of the tie strap .It would certainly carry a bigger chip which might work or might not .Never tried it .Most of my cutting is on downed or standing dead trees and whatever who ever made the chain recommends seems to over all work the best .Just my 2 cents worth .

[Tacotodd]

Like Al said, it's hard to go wrong with what the maker says, but "sometimes" it could use some tweaking!

Just MY 2 cents.

[Nebraska]

Well I may sort my chains as to each file type and set up a stihl jig to run 7/32 on the oregon chain. All it would take is drilling out  the right diameter holes to fit the files, unless the geometry for the raker file would be off. Lord knows I have more than I need. I am well stocked of half worn out 20 inch loops of 3/8 chain.  Guilty of the seeing them on sale at xyz farm store and buying a new one so there is a sharp one on the shelf always.  After 30 ish years of this they add up.