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Help Woodmizer blades getting hot in wide cypress!

Started by Cypress Sam, February 06, 2012, 01:55:48 PM

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Cypress Sam

Kinda startin feal stuuuuuupid!!!!
Did not have this problem till i started cutin these 14, 16, 18" boards.
SAM

tyb525

Before ya'll start bashing Woodmizer and favoring another saw company, maybe do a real good check of your mill setup. Sometimes alignment problem aren't obvious until you start trying to cut wide boards. What lube are you using?

Even WM states using too much lube in dry wood will cause the wood fibers to swell and rub the blade more, causing friction. I have found the same myself. I was once cutting a very old, dry walnut log. I was having to saw very slow, and I thought it was a matter of not enough blade lube (water and soap). Cranking it way up didn't help. I found a sweet spot, just enough of a drip to keep it clean and lubricated, and I was able to cut as fast as normal without excess blade heat. Also note, excess blade lube will soak the sawdust in the gullet to the point where it is no longer carried out of the log, but sticks on the cant/board.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

Cypress Sam

Not blastin WoodMizer love my little saw.  The problem is most likely a loose nut holding the speed control.  I an just tryin to figure out what I am doing wrong.  I have wished that I had named this pos Help blades getting hot in wide cypress.  I don't want to ofend anyone and I will keep using WM BLADES.  Might just be a diferent wm blade.

Sam
SAM

LOGDOG

Cypress Sam ...

Starting at .030/.032 you should be in good shape. I've run more set depending on which mill I was running at the time, what I was cutting, and which blades I was running.

I did think about this overnight though. In your original post you mentioned you didn't have trouble with your Lumbermate making these cuts and that did bring to mind possible speed differences. Whether it's blade speed or feed speed.

Don't feel bad. You can get your mill to saw straight and cool, even in those big logs, and even though you might not have the horsepower a bigger mill does. Once you get your blades set up right you'll be in good shape. We'll be pullin for ya.  ;)

ladylake


As all mills are basically the same  blade speed is the only difference I could figure between his Lumbermate and WM and that sure is not saying to get a Lumbermate , I,d try a smaller drive pulley on the WM.  With higher blade speed you have less torque at the blade and will lug the motor sooner most likely resulting in slower feed rates causing heat.  Cutting smaller logs the higher blade speed will cut faster, it's a trade off just like chain saws.  Most every time I gear the chain speed down a saw will cut faster in big wood while losing a bit when limbing.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Cypress Sam

Now if the sun would just come up so I can go to work and try this>
SAM

terrifictimbersllc

DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

LOGDOG

Quote from: ladylake on February 08, 2012, 05:47:44 AM

As all mills are basically the same  blade speed is the only difference I could figure between his Lumbermate and WM and that sure is not saying to get a Lumbermate , I,d try a smaller drive pulley on the WM.  With higher blade speed you have less torque at the blade and will lug the motor sooner most likely resulting in slower feed rates causing heat.  Cutting smaller logs the higher blade speed will cut faster, it's a trade off just like chain saws.  Most every time I gear the chain speed down a saw will cut faster in big wood while losing a bit when limbing.  Steve

Man ... don't go changin' drive pulleys. That WoodMizer will cut just the way it is designed to. Make sure your drive belt is tight enough so you're not getting any slippage, put a razor sharp, well set blade on there and don't feed it too fast. You should be good to go.

ladylake

 
It sure isn't going to hurt trying a $50 or so pulley,  you can always put the old on back on. My blade speed is quite a bit slower after I put the diesel on my mill with the same pulley as the 3600 RPM gas motor had vs the 3100 RPM diesel, It saws about twice as fast with the diesel .  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Cypress Sam

Only got  to cut one 14" cant. Blades did fine.  Now I am cutting 2x6 to make t&g for a timber frame roof sheath. I will have to wait untill the next order to see how the new set works out on some larger footage.

Sam
SAM

Magicman

Keep us informed.  Followup answers and solutions help everyone with future questions
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