LT40 voltage drop engine bog alternator belt squeak

[jovol]

So my LT40 runs well, once it's going. However, running the hydraulics, or anything that draws high current like raising the sawhead, makes the engine bog down  when its at idle. I put a volt meter on the alternator while I ran the loader, and I saw it drop from 14.4V with no load to 12.4V with the load. I have the Kohler 28HP gas. Should the engine bog like that? Should the voltage drop? And most annoyingly, what's with this *DanG squeak?! It only squeaks when the engine bogs down like this, doesn't squeak under no low or at high rpms. The previous owner but a new alternator belt on before selling it.

Here's a video of it bogging: IMG_8019.MOV - Google Drive

Another oddity: when returning to idle from running the saw, the engine RPMs go real low, borderline stall sometimes, then after 5-10sec it finds the normal idle. The only code it shows is the oxygen sensor is shorted, not sure if that would cause this.

[Magicman]

My engine idles at 1500 rpm which keeps the voltage in the required 14.6 range. 

Again, I have no experience with your engine, but that voltage requirement is probably standard.  Your battery should equalize any momentary engine speed drop until the governor kicks in.

[carhartted]

My lt40 with an Onan will bog down while using the hydraulics at idle, especially when it's cold. This spring I plan on putting a second battery on the frame to help with the voltage drop.

Are your cable connections and contact strip clean? I added larger battery cables, it seemed to help a little.

[ladylake]

 The voltage is going to drop with a load applied, just normal. You might want to turn up your idle speed a little. Yes using the hydraulic take a lot of amps and you will hear the engine work with a load applied. Squeaking, either belt is too loose, or its shot, or the pulleys  can wear so they don't grip the belt good, are your sure the belt is wide enough for the pulleys.  Steve

[Chuck White]

I agree with Steve, I believe the squeak is from the drive belt!

Adjust drive belt tension and the squeak will likely go away!

[mike_belben]

Definitely belt.  I have a lot of digital LCD gauges in my old road truck since i drive it cross country.   Every time the headlights and heater draw it down below normal volts has been the belts.

If the belt is in good condition and tight but still slips try belt dressing.  If its got a terrible squeak u cant solve, carefully hold a piece of barsoap or wax under the belt and into the pulley groove.  Hold it with pliers and dont loose your hand.

[Magicman]

 

 
I installed this digital voltmeter that constantly shows my battery voltage (14.6) being supplied by the alternator even at idle speed.  Three things are a must; (1) the alternator must be capable of supplying the voltage, (2) the idle speed must be high enough to constantly produce that voltage, and (3) there can be no alternator belt slippage.  As Steve mentioned above, a worn pulley is just as bad as a worn belt.  The belt grips the sides of the pulley, not the bottom.  If you are running on the bottom you either have a worn pulley or the wrong belt.

[Ben Cut-wright]

So my LT40 runs well, once it's going.


What does "once it's going" mean?


However, running the hydraulics, or anything that draws high current like raising the sawhead, makes the engine bog down  when its at idle. I put a volt meter on the alternator while I ran the loader, and I saw it drop from 14.4V with no load to 12.4V with the load. I have the Kohler 28HP gas. Should the engine bog like that? Should the voltage drop? And most annoyingly, what's with this *DanG squeak?! It only squeaks when the engine bogs down like this, doesn't squeak under no low or at high rpms. The previous owner but a new alternator belt on before selling it.

The alternator is the primary source of electrical energy when the engine is running.  At idle that engine is producing MUCH lower HP than at max RPMs.  These conditions exert extreme stress on the belt when operating the hydraulics.  IF the new belt was replaced because of such stress it most likely is stretched and/or glazed. I made provision to rev-up the engine to a 'fast idle' on my LT40 any time I am operating the hydraulics. 

Here's a video of it bogging: IMG_8019.MOV - Google Drive

Another oddity: when returning to idle from running the saw, the engine RPMs go real low, borderline stall sometimes, then after 5-10sec it finds the normal idle. The only code it shows is the oxygen sensor is shorted, not sure if that would cause this.

The "only code" you have is a very pertinent fault code.  Shorted sensors can create many control module problems.  My advise is to get any such faults repaired before operating the machine. 

[BenTN]

I would check belt tension and air cleaner.

[CCCLLC]

What is the exact alternator belt size for the Onan 24. The A33 (4L350) seems long. Alternator is moved all the way out to tighten this belt. Is "A" the right belt? Sorry for hijacking the earlier thread. Thanks

[sparks]

2volt drop in voltage when running the hydraulics is normal. Since the engine want to drop RPM drop very low going back to idle your issue may be in the electronics of the engine. Raising the head only pulls about 40 amps and that is not enough to bog the engine.
May have to get Kohler to scope the engine when you create the problem.

[donbj]

I would check the condition of your battery, and definitely tighten or replace your alternator belt. I have the 24hp Onan on my LT40HD and have no issues with bogging when using hydraulics. I have a good deep cycle marine battery. I have had the alternator belt squeal before but just tightened it. The battery should have enough reserve to handle hydraulics without overloading the alternator. If your battery isn't up to snuff you are putting the hyd load onto the alternator.

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

You're gonna have to get a Kohler Tech. who has the software and a laptop to hook up to your engine and diagnose whats going on. You will not be able to fix it yourself without the software.
My Kohler engine did this and the TPS went out. Replaced it and after that other things started going wrong.....the engine got worse over time.
This went on over a year and I finally traded and got a diesel.

Good Luck.

[Bandmill Bandit]

Ive posted quite a bit re alternator/ charging issues on the LT40 and other mills with the V belt drive pulley.

Woodmizer has normally supplied the mill with a Dayco 4L350FHP belt. The follow link provide a description of this category of belt intended use. DAYCO® FHP Utility V-Belt

Driving an alternator does NOT fit into the category of Fractional Horse Power which is defined as HP ratings below 1HP.

A 100 +/- amp alternator requires 5 to 7 HP to pull the load effectively. NO FHP belt is capable of providing that kind of power transfer. Using and FHP belt will exacerbate and amplify a whole litany of issues not the least of which is excessive heat resulting from continuous belt slippage along with more than enough other issues that arise from using a belt that is NOT designed for driving a 100 +/- amp alternator.

The belt that NEEDS to be on the alternator drive is a NAPA Premium XL25_9370 or equivalent (Gates XL9370).

Any 4L belt isn't even the correct profile for the drive and driven pulleys on the mills. The V angle is too steep so the top 1/3 edges of the belt carries about 2/3s of the load while the lower part of the belt does little to nothing except produce un needed heat.

Put on the correct Belt and you will find that you do not need to run the belt tighter than a fiddle string to keep it from squealing AND your alternator will run cooler too.

The CS130 series of alternators (S10 & S12s too) has a wide range of working RPM and the closer you get to the middle rpm range (about 5000 RPM)  the more efficient the alternator will operate AND will Last MUCH longer for a whole list of reasons, reduced operating TEMP being one of the most significant factors.

Reducing the driven pulley size by a minimum of a 1/4" to a 1/2" pretty much puts the alternator right in the middle of the optimum output  range AND increases idle output to within acceptable charging range at an idle speed of 1200 to 1500 RPM. Air flow increase is significant AND that reduces TEMP significantly.  You will notice engine RPM drop at idle when the load hits the alternator but 20 plus HP engines will have no problem carrying it and it is not hurting any of the various components in the system. There a few different fan styles for these alternators that increase air flow quite a bit from the standard fan used in automotive type applications.    

This link is to a post I did a few years ago that provide ALL the info you should ever need to deal with this issue so that it ceases to be an issue.    
Re: Woodmizer alternator issues