Heatmor

falkenbw · January 11, 2021, 12:00:56 PM

Hey fellas,

New to to the forum. I need some help with my heatmor. I inherited a heatmor 100 from the original owner when I bought my house 4 years ago. I was able to teach myself how to use it and it's been great for the last 3 winters. However, this year I can't get it to work properly.

I see a few things going on:
1. It's not generating heat.
2. Whenever I open the door, the fire inside will be almost out and completely filled with smoke in the box.
3. There's condensation and water dripping from the firebox door.

I've tried putting a new gasket around the door and I cleaned out the smoke stack, but it hasn't helped. Anyone have any idea what could be my issue?

Thanks in advance

Ben

Roger2561 · January 11, 2021, 12:51:49 PM

Welcome!

I know nothing about Heatmor units but all outdoor boilers need air to get into the firebox to help get the fire going. You must have some kind of restriction somewhere. Check to be sure the draft is operating freely, opening and closing freely. Check to be sure the air holes aren't plugged with creosote (creosote is the main problem when it comes to keeping a fire going). If yours has a blower make sure it is operating when the OWB is calling for air. You took care of the chimney as a potential problem. Good luck! Roger

Corley5 · January 11, 2021, 01:27:01 PM

It's not getting combustion air. Is the forced draft blower running? Is it on? The light switch turns off the blower when the light is on. Does the light work? It could be the aqua stat?

Wood Shed · January 11, 2021, 02:28:06 PM

Do you have an OP manual to help with trouble shooting?

barbender · January 11, 2021, 05:40:50 PM

If your blower is working, and there is no obstruction in front of the where the air inlet comes out (it's right under the firebox door) I would strongly suspect your flue is sooted up or the chimney is plugged. Open the back door and the is a cover up high that has 4 bolts, take those off and pull the cover. You might have to pry it off as the creosote will make it stick. Then just shine a light in and see, I've had mine completely close off before, this was due to a leaky firebox door gasket. Anyways the flue is, just guessing, about 5"x10", and runs the length of the stove above the firebox. The chimney exits at the back, it enters from underneath at the front end of the stove. You have to knock everything loose and pull it out the back, or push it toward the entrance at the front. Be careful if it's loaded up badly, you could pack it in trying to push it to the end though. My stove came with a tool for cleaning the flue, it's just a 4x6" piece of flat steel welded to the end of a piece of pipe about 4' long. Kind of like a hoe but the handle attaches in the center of the head. Get that cleaned out and check your chimney itself, that will likely need cleaned as well.

thecfarm · January 11, 2021, 06:32:40 PM

I have a heatmor 400. Same thing, I think, but mine will take a 54 inch stick. Not much to go wrong with one of these. As said, check out that 5x 10 hole. You said you cleaned the chimney? ??? I have never once cleaned mine, had it since 2007. Would like to know why you cleaned it and did you get any thing out of it?

thecfarm · January 12, 2021, 06:04:49 AM

I had a insurance guy come to the house. :

Said I had to put a cap on the Heatmor. So I did. I bought one of those with the diamond shaped holes in it. I have no idea how long it was, but mine was not burning good. Seem like I had no draft. Very odd. I would open the door and there would be a lot of smoke. Than it would start to burn. Not much smoke coming out of the chimney with the blowers on. Than the light bulb came on. I checked that 5x10 hole and water was dripping down. A leak!!! Next I went and inspected the chimney. That DanG cap that he wanted on was filled up with creosote and I mean filled. I do not burn good wood. Just dead wood and rotten wood that I pick up. Lots of moisture. I took that off and problem solved. I just put a cap that is open on the sides on it.
As I said, those Heatmor are a simple design.
Is your model just the 100? Not a 100CB? The CB are the newer gassers.
I think that 5x10 hole is plugged, if you have never cleaned it. It should have just ashes in it.

falkenbw · January 12, 2021, 08:31:11 AM

Thanks for the responses. Yeh I regularly auger and I have the tool to weekly clean the flue.

Today I unscrewed the blower to see if it's functioning ok. I think the blower might be bad. If I flip the switch to run the blower it turns on but it only opens the flapper a little bit. It should blow that flapper wide open right?

I just bought the blower (Dayton model) 3 years ago. It seems like it should last longer than that. But does that sound like the power isn't working full strength if the flapper is only opening about 10-20%?

Is it possible it just needs cleaned or do I need a new one again?

Thanks guys

Wood Shed · January 12, 2021, 10:48:50 AM

Hard for us to know how it should be operating but you know it has worked the previous 3years, and your blower has been replaced, hopefully you will find something simple like the flapper binding and not opening fully. Does the flapper open and close manually from air pressure or is it solenoid operated? Keep looking you will find the problem.

barbender · January 12, 2021, 01:57:25 PM

The flapper doesn't open very far, it just blows open from the moving air. I've had to replace 1 blower motor in 10 years of operation. So you've visually inspected your chimney and flue since you've had the performance issues? Like thecfarm's experience, I've never heard of it working out well for anyone that puts a spark arrestor cap on the chimney of an OWB. Maybe if you only burned completely dry wood it would work out.

thecfarm · January 12, 2021, 03:58:39 PM

There is catch basin in front of the blower flapper. Make sure that is empty. If there is stuff in there, it keeps the flapper from opening. The flapper will hit what's in there and keep it from opening and not allow the air to get into the OWB.
barbender, got a part number for your blowers? ;D Mine don't last that long. But I do use mine year around. I doubt mine has even been off two weeks. One week was a vacation.

Again there is a plate in the back of the stove, about 5x10, with 2 big nuts that holds the plate. Remove that plate and that will expose that 5"x10" hole. There is a a tool that cleans that out. You should be able to see to the front of the OWB when you get done.

When the blower is on, flip that switch in the front by the feed door to turn power off to the blower. Take the blower off from the OWB, than flip the switch on. Pick up the blower, watch the fins that in the center!!!! That flapper should be open just a little, maybe an inch?? That is all you need to push air into the OWB. Flip the switch back off and reinstall blower.
As I said, this is a VERY simple OWB. That is why I bought it. No solenoids, no switches, really nothing that requires much brain work when it's not working right.
We'll get you going.

barbender · January 12, 2021, 04:50:07 PM

Ray, I will try to remember to look. My HVAC man Father in law got it for me, it was the same motor as the OEM except it had bearings instead of bushings.

thecfarm · January 12, 2021, 04:52:22 PM

Must be the bearings that make it last? I have not priced one since last year. On line maybe $150??

falkenbw · January 12, 2021, 06:35:47 PM

Quote from: thecfarm on January 12, 2021, 03:58:39 PM
There is catch basin in front of the blower flapper. Make sure that is empty. If there is stuff in there, it keeps the flapper from opening. The flapper will hit what's in there and keep it from opening and not allow the air to get into the OWB.
barbender, got a part number for your blowers? ;D Mine don't last that long. But I do use mine year around. I doubt mine has even been off two weeks. One week was a vacation.

Again there is a plate in the back of the stove, about 5x10, with 2 big nuts that holds the plate. Remove that plate and that will expose that 5"x10" hole. There is a a tool that cleans that out. You should be able to see to the front of the OWB when you get done.

When the blower is on, flip that switch in the front by the feed door to turn power off to the blower. Take the blower off from the OWB, than flip the switch on. Pick up the blower, watch the fins that in the center!!!! That flapper should be open just a little, maybe an inch?? That is all you need to push air into the OWB. Flip the switch back off and reinstall blower.
As I said, this is a VERY simple OWB. That is why I bought it. No solenoids, no switches, really nothing that requires much brain work when it's not working right.
We'll get you going.

Thanks. I do have the tool already and I take the plate off the back to clean frequently.
I took the blower off and it does run... it does push the flapper open (just not a lot... that's why I didn't know if it was a blower issue).

So just to clarify... the fact that the blower only opens the flapper a little bit does not mean that the blower needs replaced?

I did not know there was a catch basin... I'll see if I can clean that out. Thanks!

thecfarm · January 12, 2021, 09:27:52 PM

I doubt that blower needs to be replaced if it moves the flapper.
I do wonder if there is something in that catch basin that is not allowing the flapper to open.
Is that blower in the back of the OWB? I have 2 in mine, due to the size of it and that back one will get stuff in that catch basin, must faster than the front one. It due from throwing wood into the box and it's pushing it into the air vent and falling into that catch basin.

1countryboy · January 21, 2021, 07:57:46 AM

Did you do all of the recommendations given on the forum? Heatmor is very simple, effective furnance. My 400 heats large farm shop to 70-75 degrees (in floor) and very large farm home,(8000+sq ft) Other furnance (200) heats brother s home. Units have been in for almost 20 yrs. I keep extra pump and fan on hand.

Please fill in some information, where u are state wise, wood used etc. The 200 and yours both have fan on front. Take the fan out and CLEAN, check the flap. (turn power on and watch the flap). Spray the flap hinge with wd40 or blaster. It should work freely. If your ashs build up just inside the door u restrict or cut off air. Cinders or ashes will plug the flapper. Down load the manual from Heatmor for your 100. Is the fan running unbalanced......blow the fins clean.

Manual says yours has auto fan switch? Refer to manual and follow instructions. Yours may have grate that rotates. Do complete ash cleanout, grate, flue, box above the the firebox, etc.

Those posting that have the 400! Is an upgrade for blower outlet in back of the firebox that raises opening about 16 inches (no ashes in the rear fan flipper anymore! Also is a stainless auger replacement tube.

thecfarm · January 21, 2021, 08:06:54 AM

Did not know about those upgrades. That's really all I do with mine, is keep that catch basin clean in the rear of the OWB. In fact have not done it for more than a month. I just about wait until the wood is not burning well in the back and than I clean it. :

I worked on that tube for the clean out about 4 years ago. Been good since than.
Mine has been going steady since 2007, maybe down for 2 weeks in that whole time. I use it to heat my hot water in the summer. I really burn a lot of junk than. Lots and lots of small limbs keeps the water hot.

1countryboy · January 21, 2021, 09:04:46 AM

Excellent upgrade, BUT u have to crawl in the furnance (best if the fire is out) :D :D :D

thecfarm · January 21, 2021, 09:07:03 AM

I crawled into mine about 4 years ago to fix that tube. With no fire. ;) ;D Came apart way in the back. :

1countryboy · January 21, 2021, 09:12:33 AM

I enjoyed looking at all your pictures. I have lots, just have to find time and figumre out how to post them. Are there any good shortcuts.

My loade r is in the woods now, but when the sun shines on a southern slope all the frost leaves fast and the trips down the steep hay fields is a no no and can t rut my fields so am looking at the weekend if it does not snow and is supposed to freeze.

thecfarm · January 21, 2021, 09:18:53 AM

posting picture

This will do it. At first it looks like a lot, but do it 3-4 times and it's quick and easy!!!
I like to look at the pictures too. I need to take more before pictures.

jerry sundberg · February 10, 2021, 10:36:07 AM

I had a Heatmor and found that the flapper in the air intake was creosoted up and would not open one time so I cleaned it up and worked fine till the next time it stuck open and wouldn't shut the air off and caused the boiler to over heat. You must check that flapper real often especially if you burn green wood.

barbender · February 10, 2021, 03:49:10 PM

If things are getting creosote buildup I wonder if you had a leaking door seal. I burn green wood all the time and the only times I've had creosote problems is when that door is leaking.

thecfarm · February 10, 2021, 09:48:25 PM

Yes, that is odd. I burned green hardwood all one winter, did it with softwood too all one winter. Never had a problem creosote. Did have a hard time keeping up on the green pine though. Good thing I had a good supply of scrub pine. ;)

barbender · February 10, 2021, 11:19:13 PM

Yeah green pine, especially red pine, has so much moisture in it that it mostly makes steam😂

1countryboy · February 15, 2021, 07:42:52 AM

Shut the unit down and CLEAN!!!!

You do want a layer of ashes over the bottom grate. BUT, just a couple inches. Be positive that the fan is blowing air (under the front door) If you have a 400 unit the back fan opening can get covered and ashes can Keep air from blowing into firebox. (upgrade for that raises the fan opening about a foot in height.) It will never plug if u take time to install it. Hint :D let the fire burn out cause U have to crawl in to install it. :D :D :D :D!!!!!!

Clean the vent above the firebox. Easy to do from behind the furnace. Check for air leaks, door, seal on back of he ash auger cleanout and the cleanout above firebox (from back of unit). Heatmor is a very simple unit to maintain.

Yes, to some wood this year that has more than normal moisture. The ash is degrading (disease) and not as much BTU/s. My oak tops are frozen in the center. Chains do NOT like frozen logs!! It is harder for me to get my temp up with the wood condition. AND, NO, i can not cut far enough in advance to feed my two heatmor furnaces. 8) 8)but, am very open to a crew of re (tired)

forestry forum members to show me how to get a year supply in advance. I can offer beautiful winter views down the rolling hills that mother nature formed LONG LONG time ago! I even have extra big chain saws that do NOT fit my hands. :D

Corley5 · February 15, 2021, 03:46:33 PM

Your 14-12 doesn't have a saw dust chute.

1countryboy · February 15, 2021, 07:44:24 PM

No sawdust chute, but...........the processor is 3pt mounted and i just lift and drive away. Then clean up with the backhoe loader.

What MM engine did i see in your pictures. Think it was running your mill. The tractor running my Blockbuster processor is a 75 hp, low rpm. Lots of power and this is her retirement duty. Good old tractor that starts fast in any kind of weather.

Corley5 · February 15, 2021, 08:27:42 PM

G403 power unit. Same engine that the GTB tractor uses. It did run the mill

. We've got a G-VI tractor. Big low RPM diesels are 8) 8)
What year is your 14-12? Mines an 05. Second 14-12 built with a live deck. It doesn't have the half hoop over the splitter. Over 7,000 hours on it now.