installing picture

cluckerplucker · March 24, 2008, 09:31:57 PM

I tried to ask for help on blade type for lighterwood and post a picture but everything disappeared when I tried to post a picture .Mine are in jpeg. and I dont know how to make them smaller . cluckerplucker

Jeff · March 24, 2008, 09:33:50 PM

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,23851.0.html

brdmkr · March 24, 2008, 09:41:29 PM

CP,

I can't offer any suggstions on a blade, but I would be interested in your experience cutting lighter. I have a guy with a ~~bunch~~ whack of lightered logs that I might could get, but I have wondered 1) what they would be like to cut and 2) what you would actually do with the ~~lumber~~, er resin once it was cut.

cluckerplucker · March 25, 2008, 07:20:40 AM

cluckerplucker The slabbing of the lighter went fine till halfway thru then broke the blade on a rock hard section. I used diesel as a lube to soften the buildup of pitch. the customer wants to build coffee tables and lacquer the surface. He wants small stump cut to make wall placques.I just need to find the right blade.

Fla._Deadheader · March 25, 2008, 09:05:17 AM

We used Munks Blades. Lightered takes a slow feed. Don't have a LOT of 'sperense
with Lightered, but Tom does. Can you get a Wood Mizer 4° doublehard ??? They are supposed to be good for HARD logs ???

Tom · March 25, 2008, 09:50:05 AM

The problemwith "lightered" is the pitch, not the hardness so much. The heat from the blade melts the resin and it sticks on the blade and fills the kerf.

The solution is not 100%. It is to keep the blade cool. The #1 thing is a super sharp blade and change it often. A dulling blade heats up more than a sharp blade.

A wider set works sometimes to make the kerf wider and keep the sides of the blade from contacting the sap.

Flooding with Water or Water and soap will work. I know it does because that is my first effort.

Putting a petroleum product on the blade will work if the band doesn't slip and the product doesn't stink up the boards. It just makes it harder for the resin and sawdust to stick on the band body.

Finding the right cutting speed is important. The faster you cut, the hotter the blade gets. Cut too slow and you're wasting tooth tips.

Making sure that the wood is as clean as you can get it is important too.

Then, if you aren't being real accurate, make sure that you leave enough on the board that the "miller" can straighten it back out. Just don't leave so much that it becomes a problem to him and his planer. He will have some of the same problems that you do.

"Lightered" wood is brittle. Don't allow off-bearers to throw it around. Otherwise acceptable boards will split and break.