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Seeking advice on poplar hardwood floor project

Started by jakeginsburg36, December 25, 2018, 10:22:19 PM

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jakeginsburg36

I just received 1500 board feet of poplar boards (8'x6"x1") from a local sawmill. I am in the process of drying out the wood in my make-shift dehumidifier kiln. I posted a picture to give an idea of what I am working with. I had planned all along to use the boards for plank walls of our carriage house, which currently is just exterior walls and studs. However, I have enough that I can also put down hardwood floors over the concrete. That is where I am seeking some advice:

1. Has anyone ever done poplar hardwood floors? What are your thoughts on how it came out?

2. It looks like you can put hardwood down on concrete only if you put either OSB or plywood subfloors (as well as a laminate) over the concrete. It looks like plywood is better but OSB is much cheaper. Has anyone ever put poplar over OSB? Any input on subfloors to use would be appreciated.


3. I realize that there will likely be some expansion/movement of the wood floor boards due to the seasons (I'm in the Philly area). Is there a recommended substance to space out the boards and fill the gaps (i.e. silicon, plaster, etc.)? Would spacing do the trick? I would like to dye it black if I do space it out like that.


I appreciate any input on this, thanks!


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YOU MUST USE GALLERY TO POST PHOTOS. JPG FORMAT DOCUMENT UPLOAD IS NOT ALLOWED FOR PHOTOS

ellmoe

Poplar is rather soft for flooring , but the distressed look is " in ", so a personal choice. Our customers ( and me ) glue down most of the flooring we produce. We use an elastomeric glue , that stretches with the floor's movement. However , our humidity may not varies as much as up north where you have such dry heat in the winter . My floor is 4 - 10 " heart pine and I have noticed any problems. We also produce sap pine , oak , hickory , and some cherry flooring , all of which has been glued down on concrete slabs. I have not heard of any issues . How much movement to expect out of poplar, I do not know, but you can look it up. Good luck.
Thirty plus years in the sawmill/millwork business. A sore back and arthritic fingers to prove it!

firefighter ontheside

I assume you're talking about using 2x4 joists and making a plywood subfloor to nail your flooring to.  Whatever you use, I would say you need to use 3/4.  There is t&g osb subfloor, but I'm not sure it's any cheaper than plywood.
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jakeginsburg36

How necessary is it to put in joists?  I read that I could just put the subfloor directly on the concrete, with a vapor barrier film in between.  I will put in joists if I need to, but I feel that would elevate the floor too much.

jakeginsburg36

Quote from: ellmoe on December 26, 2018, 06:15:04 AM
Poplar is rather soft for flooring , but the distressed look is " in ", so a personal choice. Our customers ( and me ) glue down most of the flooring we produce. We use an elastomeric glue , that stretches with the floor's movement. However , our humidity may not varies as much as up north where you have such dry heat in the winter . My floor is 4 - 10 " heart pine and I have noticed any problems. We also produce sap pine , oak , hickory , and some cherry flooring , all of which has been glued down on concrete slabs. I have not heard of any issues . How much movement to expect out of poplar, I do not know, but you can look it up. Good luck.
Do your customers glue the hardwood directly to the concrete or do the put in subfloor and/or joists first?  I understand that subfloor is completely necessary here, but I would rather not put in joists because that would elevate the floors too much.

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