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ongoing splitter and conveyor upgrade.

Started by doc henderson, November 17, 2021, 03:56:16 PM

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doc henderson

I was trying to find an appropriate old thread where I had posted pics of my set up.  I do not move it often as it sits on the south end of my shop, in front of my sawmill, and works well for splitting up scraps.  I occasionally take it out to play, and just got it back from a campout, where prep for the freeze out camps in January and February will occur.  so I got a few things done that I have been meaning to do.  weld up some stuff, and throw some paint on ect.




 






  



                     so the angle of the tongue has been off.  I originally estimated it for towing in the yard, and also used the angle of the stock I used on the base.  so this got an angle cut out, bent and re-welded.  over the week end I was moving it with my crane I use, and could pick up the whole conveyor by the ball attached to the crane on my track loader.  and always check square tubing for live animals prior to welding.  I did not taste it, or I would have put it over on Howards out door thread.





next I began work on the fleet wiring.  I have had the parts for 3 years.  I had ruined a pair of jumper cables my dad gave me when I was 20.  I charge the battery on the splitter off the engine and the battery on the conveyor had jumper cable from the splitter to its battery.  the conveyor can run free standing until the batter gets low.  all day.  I can also charge it off the front or rear of my truck

I have a crimper, but did not use it.  never have.  I soldered things solid.  i had some extra winch cables that I used from the splitter batt. back.  I used my sentimental jumper cable wire for the conveyor lead.  These are still soft and pliable with no cracks in the insulation.  they just do not make them like used to, Dad.

 







 

 

 


i have a toggle switch that controls a solenoid so the tarp motor is reversible.  so if you get a jam.  most is getting paint touched up.  may pour a slab where this thing lives.  better on the tires, and for clean up.  i also put a jack on the back area so I do not need a stump under it when it is loaded at the back with wood.  I may find a tool box for the front to add tongue weight.  It was perfect, until later I added heavy 1/2 inch bar to expand the table and shifted tongue weight to the back.  the jack is infinitely adjustable.  to a point.  
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

DMcCoy

I laughed yesterday every time I thought of your toasted mouse.  I have never considered my welder to be a rodent control device until your post.
Who puts a toasted mouse picture in with their welding project- why--"Country Doc Henderson"
Thanks for the laughs.  :D :D :D
Nice work on the splitter and conveyor too!

Hilltop366

I have not knowingly welded a mouse but have had one try to move into my lawn tractor engine, he was gutted buy the flywheel and cooked over the cylinder until crispy.

I called it "Kawasaki fried mice".

Old Greenhorn

Quote from: Hilltop366 on November 24, 2021, 08:35:27 AM
I have not knowingly welded a mouse but have had one try to move into my lawn tractor engine, he was gutted buy the flywheel and cooked over the cylinder until crispy.

I called it "Kawasaki fried mice".
Sounds like you're driving a 'mice burner'. :D :D (sorry)
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

doc henderson

Our previous German Shepard, spent 3 days interested in a riding mower we had.  i looked and all I saw was a wire harness braided cover behind the seat.  later it was gone.  it was the tail of a pack rat.  Dixie eventually got it.  lots of trash in the motor/hydraulic compartment.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

doc henderson

finally use the conveyor enough that I need to remove one of the detachable links.  the tensioning adjustment was all used up, and the lower segment of chain was hanging, and it was derailing off the upper cog easier.  so de-tensioned it, then undid the universal link.  



 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

thecfarm

Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

doc henderson

so now that my son is older (21) I am thinking of the auto cycle valve.  two levers.  if you use the first one it is just like a detent log splitter valve.  Pull them both forward and it cycles out hands free, then kick off the first lever and detents back.  not for kids, or narly elm ect.  
also thinking of the dump valve.  now that I understand the plumbing, I think it can still be neat and tidy.  the pictures make it look like hoses all over the place.  they plumbed it in but use too long of hoses.  I like to keep things neat and simple.  the hose from the rod end of the cylinder is the signal and only needs to be 1/4 inch.  I can tap into the connection below the valve.  The next one is to the back end of the cylinder and mine has two ports and only one is used.  the 3rd is to the return to the hydraulic tank.  



 

 

 

 

 

also ordered a oil temp gauge.  and plan to connect a low pressure light.  thought about a gauge for pressure, but for a log splitter?!



 

 

 
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

stavebuyer

Doc, the Eastonmade I used to own had those features as well as the pressure gauge. The gauge was handy for adjusting the auto-return pressure. The dump valve really speeds the return as wells as helps cool the oil. You speed all those things functions up the heat gets to be an issue even with a large reservoir and a fan on the oil cooler.

doc henderson

Thanks SB.  I am now at the point to just mess around a bit.  It works great now, but I like the idea of tweaking it.  I did not want to junk it up but I think I can do it and make it neat. Not planning on an oil cooler.  I have a gauge in line with the pump.  
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

barbender

 Doc, I like the auto-cycle valves but with a caveat. When using a splitter so equipped, I think the operator is the only person that should be working on the splitter side of the machine, placing rounds and such. Helpers only touch the wood behind the wedge.

 I have a friend who had his hand horribly mangled, near to the point of amputation, when he was fighting a hung block of elm and his son engaged the splitter. Had it been a standard "dead man" valve he still would've been injured, but more than likely his son would've let go of the lever when his dad screamed. 
Too many irons in the fire

doc henderson

yes BB, that is the rule even with a standard log splitter valve.  I really like the valve on the cylinder, as it reduces one hose.  and makes it usable from either side, but with my table on, you can only stand on the engine side.  you need to be there to easily start the engine and change the throttle.  

I understand the dump valve now enough, that I think I can do it in a neat way.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

stavebuyer

It takes 2 people to keep an autocycle splitter optimized. It is a chore to keep the rounds fed to it. The controls on mine were on the opposite side from the log lift. The second persons job was to keep rounds stacked on the lift and the split wood moved away. A good splitter will keep two people plenty busy.

hedgerow

Doc I will throw out my thoughts on the auto cycle valves. I have installed three of them. The first two went on splitters when the valves first came out. One never did work right on a buddy's splitter. They gave him his money back and went back to the detent return. I had one on my splitter. It worked ok but took some adjusting to keep it dialed in. My two guys that help me both fifty plus guys didn't care for it, safety wise. It came off and went back to a detent return. When I built my processor I put one on it. Its still on it as I am the only one that operates it. It does take some adjusting to keep it working right. The only time I see a dump valve have any value is on a splitter that has a over sized rod on the cylinder like my processor does. I put one on my splitter with a normal cylinder like you have and saw no benefit. 

doc henderson

I agree with all that.  In fact i usually run about 1/3 throttle so do not need it really.  It is now more about tinkering since I figured out a neat way to plumb it in.  James is great at splitez, but the pictures of the installed valves made it look cluttered with all the extra hose.  I have a 5 inch cylinder with a 2 inch rod.  I do not see 440 dollars in value in the auto cycle and even though I do not see me or prob. not my son getting injured, however, a knotty chunk of elm may destroy the wedge/beam/pusher if the pucker switch does not connect straight to your hand to let off.  I also got two of the oversize 10 micron filters for the return line.  My oil temp gauge should get here tonight, and some red LED lights to connect to the low oil pressure switch (ground).
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

barbender

 Doc, look at all the stuff kids put on their diesel pickups. 6" lift and 38" tires and never go off road. There's no reason that you can't pimp your wood splitter😊
Too many irons in the fire

doc henderson

the cylinder is painted red.  could tow it around on a Saturday night...if I am not working.   :D :D :D
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

barbender

I'll be watching for a video on YouTube titled "New rims and a dump valve on my splitter, Saturday night"
Too many irons in the fire

doc henderson

OK.  got the mechanical gauge (runs on 8 to 80 V dc) so if something happens, it will have the hours.  my tiny tach went bad and cannot change the batt., so lost info.  there are ways on the internet, and I might try it to see if it somehow saved the hours.  that was on my mill.  this new one is for the log splitter.  



 

this one goes on the log splitter and I know it has 220 hours now.  so now I have to put this on a batt. and set a timer.  I do not want to try to remember the 220 and add.  if I ever sell, I can reverse polarity and back a few miles off   :snowball: :) :) :)

I got one for the mill, but it is rectangular.  this one is round to match the other gauge, oil temp.  it has 7 different back lit led colors!   :o :o :o.  I am waiting for the red lights, and then find a spot for a little dash for these.



 

I will add the thermistor when I change the oil, and may add a pipe to the other side to extend the drain so it does not run all over the frame.  I have a few days off so next week should work out.  I got my filter marked and ready to go for mill and splitter.  





engraver fun.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

doc henderson

for the dump valve pilot, it can be small.  hardly and movement, but must hold pressure from the rod end of the cylinder.  I can get a hose, but do any of you make your own SS lines?
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Big_eddy

Quote from: doc henderson on March 24, 2023, 06:40:43 PM
for the dump valve pilot, it can be small.  hardly and movement, but must hold pressure from the rod end of the cylinder.  I can get a hose, but do any of you make your own SS lines?
For 2500-3500 psi, I'm not making anything. High pressure hydraulic oil scares me enough with factory made hoses. I realize it won't normally see that pressure, but it could. 

doc henderson

That is why I asked.  My brother did road construction for years, and they got "comfortable" with hydraulics.  they had the experience to back it up.  I think a rigid line will work better along side the cylinder.  
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Old Greenhorn

I consider 3000 psi as 'low pressure' in hydraulics. My last job I had to create a hose building department so we no longer had to buy our hoses from parker who was getting very flaky. These were for production sales with our tools, many of which ran 5,000-8,000 psi or a bit more. We made a few thousand hoses a year from pigtails up to 25' and a few 50 footers. EVERY hose was pressure tested to at least 27,000 psi, and I saw a few failures but each of those was very unexciting. Almost all were at the crimp, with just one or two in the form of a hose defect from manufacturing. The after effects of a failure come down to the pump. If it can move enough oil to make any pinhole into a spray before the hole opens wide, that is a real hazard. I never saw this happen, but it can. When you cut a line the pressure drops off SO fast there is very little excitement.

 Doc, I have made steel lines for repair or new build work. You need a specific set of flaring tools and they are not really cheap, to match your fittings. My splitter has a steel line running the length of the cylinder. If you do this, it is important to not have a direct straight line from point A to point B. You need to put some kind of bend or offset in that line to allow for a little flexing (and also installation). It the line can't flex a little, it will fatigue and leak or break.
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

doc henderson

I am not beyond having it made professionally.  remember, one goal is to keep it neat.  a small diam. hose is prob. the path of least resistance.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

hedgerow

Doc If you want stainless check with the hydraulic rebuild centers in your area. We have a place called Central States Hydraulics in Lincoln Nebraska that can build about any steel line that you would need. I have had him build several low and high pressure steel lines for equipment that the factory didn't support any more. Not out of stainless but steel line. 

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