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Author Topic: Concrete base for sawmill  (Read 8406 times)

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Offline Handy Andy

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #20 on: October 21, 2007, 01:19:23 PM »
  Regarding your statements about building your own house, in my career of 25 years as a builder, I might have made 20% once.  Normally it is less than 10% by the time I pay the property taxes etc.  If you are talking to subcontractors, they will talk up building your own, as they charge owner-builders more than their steady contractors.  They call them "once in a lifetime customers".  The subs like framers and plumbers are really ripping us off here.  All the regulations that get passed restricting who can do work in your city results in higher prices by the ones that are allowed to do the work.  Now, if you could frame your own house and do the plumbing, wiring, painting, installing woodwork and flooring, build your own cabinets and tops, you can save money.
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Offline WDH

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #21 on: October 21, 2007, 07:29:11 PM »
Nice pad.  I need to do something similar.  I store my LT15 in a shed.  I skid it out with the tractor, set it up (on the dirt), and saw.  When done, I skid it back into the shed.  I need a pad like yours to set it up on.  That would make set-up a snap.
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Offline mike_van

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #22 on: October 21, 2007, 08:12:04 PM »
For the guy that doesn't want to spend the $$$$ for concrete, or stand on it all day, I don't know why a wood pad wouldn't work. If you layed [or half buried] PT 6x6's  flat on 2 ft centers, sawed out your own deck & screwed it down, put a coat of Thompsons [or similar] once & awhile?   I needed a sidewalk in front of my sugarhouse to stay out of the mud - 4 ft x 16 ft - I did the same thing with PT 4x4's, screwed  2x6's to them, 7 years ago, it's still there & working fine. I ran out of PT 2x6's part way, so I used some oak & maple I had - They'll all cup a little when the summer sun beats on them, but it sure beat buying the concrete [or mixing it] under the mill  you'd have to watch out welding on it.
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Offline jrokusek

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #23 on: October 21, 2007, 09:19:06 PM »
Actually, for me, forming and pouring the concrete was faster.  Not that I'm against saving a few bucks or anything  ;)

I had the mill on 4 railroad ties and the frost and freezing temps would move the RR ties quite a bit.  This just turned out to be a bit easier for me.  Concrete was $124.52 delivered to me. 

Offline WDH

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #24 on: October 21, 2007, 10:15:28 PM »
Mike,

A good idea.  I might do that since the foundation deck could be portable if I wanted to move my sawing location.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Offline solodan

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #25 on: October 21, 2007, 10:57:04 PM »
I have thought about building an elevated deck on a slight grade, and then  digging a 3 sided pit and leaving an access on the downhill side, then using that heavy duty expanded metal decking you see at ski resorts, so the saw dust can fall through into the pit. The pit would still have to be cleaned out every so often, but not as often as sawing on grade. ??? maybe I could conveyor the sawdust out to a sawdust burner. ???

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #26 on: September 16, 2021, 07:32:43 AM »
Did something dumb 10 years go when I put RR crossties for the base of the mill. Now they are rotting. I am considering 3 options:

1. dig up the rotting ties and replace with concrete
2. drill 12" (approx) dia holes where the legs are and fill with concrete
3. excavate a bed and fill with concrete for the entire mill to rest on. (about 29' long)
 I will have a concrete company do the work due to the amt of concrete involved. Access is limited to the ends of the shed due to the rollway on one side and trees on the other. I want to keep cost down but minimize the labor I have to do. I am leaning to option 1 but I want FFer's comments









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Offline doc henderson

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #27 on: September 16, 2021, 07:52:19 AM »
cheapest and easiest might be the hole in the ground with concrete.  you can throw in the cardboard sono tube if your soil will not hold.  could even do the quick-rete bags if you want it fast and simple.  a small pad of concrete (2x2) under the tires may help them last, or they can be taken off and stored inside. I only tow/move mine about once a year.
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor 12 volt tarp motor

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #28 on: September 16, 2021, 08:45:06 AM »
How are option 1 and option 2 different?  Not sure I'm understanding.  It seems to me if you go with option 1, you are 90% of the way to option 2.  Maybe I'm missing something.  ???
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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #29 on: September 16, 2021, 09:34:01 AM »
In option 1 the rotting ties are about 4 or 5 ft long and span the width of the mill (plus about a foot on each side)
In option 2 a 12" dia hole would be drilled where the legs contact the ground and then filled with concrete. Drilling would go through the rotting ties and down maybe 18" to 24".
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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #30 on: September 16, 2021, 09:37:52 AM »
You deserve a nice set up.  You have worked hard.  I would pour the pad and enjoy how much better that will make things for you.  
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Offline doc henderson

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #31 on: September 16, 2021, 12:13:28 PM »
I agree the pad is the best/nicest option.  if that does not fit your budget, you can do the sono tube footings, and pour a slab over them later.  i think if the mill is all that will roll on the slab, then a 4 inch reinforced slab should be enough.
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor 12 volt tarp motor

Offline doc henderson

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #32 on: September 16, 2021, 12:17:07 PM »
a 5 x30 foot 4 inch slab is under 2 yards of concrete.  that costs about 210 bucks here.  I would add wire mesh or even the roll wire that is 5 feet wide.  i still like having the footing under where the most pressure will be under the feet.  if you hire it done, it will add to the cost, but be a better finish if you are unfamiliar with concrete placement.
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor 12 volt tarp motor

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #33 on: September 16, 2021, 03:17:38 PM »
I would also agree the pad is the best option. Hired out, it could be formed and poured in a day and its done.

If you're like me (stubborn and cheap), it can be formed and poured in sections with welded wire fabric as doc said and rebar doweling between pours.  The sections give you built in control joints so nothing needs to be cut afterwards.

I broke my patio up this way into 7 pours over a few weekends.  Each pour was roughly 100 sqft.  Totaled about 360 80lb bags mixed in a drum mixer.  My wife and I did it with occasional help from a friend.  Mostly helping to dump bags into the mixer.

If you did two pours, each 5 x15ft, I think it could be very manageable.  If you're not familiar with concrete finishing, I wouldn't worry about it.  You could mix it a little dry to avoid pooling water, screed the top with a straight 2x4 and give it a throwaway push broom finish.
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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #34 on: September 16, 2021, 03:36:16 PM »
Thanks for the encouragement to pour a pad. I am seriously considering it. And thanks to WDH for the kind supporting comments. 

So, 4 thick with wire and rebar is the recommendation?
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Offline Magicman

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #35 on: September 16, 2021, 05:15:04 PM »
There would be no way to control any shift in position with multiple support pads.  Yes, pour a single pad with a moisture barrier beneath the wire. 
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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #36 on: September 16, 2021, 08:51:13 PM »
 

 

I did concrete piers with railroad ties crossing them.  Then hemlock 8x8s on top.  Havent been thru winter yet. So we will see. The idea is the posts are below the frost line so they wont move. 
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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #37 on: September 16, 2021, 08:55:40 PM »
most walks and driveways are 4 inch.  if you were going to drive a dump truck loaded on it then I would go 6 inches.  just increase the concrete cost by 50%.  the labor would be the same as you only finish the top.  if you pour a pad, still best to put some circular footing under the pressure points down to the frost depth.
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor 12 volt tarp motor

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #38 on: September 17, 2021, 07:22:14 AM »
A pad of any thickness would do better with a 2-3"+ base of crushed rock or gravel compacted. If it's a wet area, add a daylight drain if your slope allows to keep water from collecting under the slab.
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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #39 on: September 18, 2021, 06:53:19 AM »
Still planning. Is it a good idea to install any support system (pad, piers, e.g.) under the sawmill trailer tires? Seems to me that since they are soft and flexible they don't provide firm support when sawing, so why bother? Omitting such support would make the forms for pouring concrete a little simpler.

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