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Author Topic: Concrete base for sawmill  (Read 8420 times)

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Online doc henderson

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #40 on: September 18, 2021, 07:15:26 AM »
it is always dangerous asking for advice with things like pouring concrete.  even my buddy Eddie who has done it for 40 years, will waffle on certain "rules" for no apparent reason.  so the piers could be a mixed blessing.  can transmit forces on the pad down to solid ground below the frost line, and make everything more solid.  If the whole pas settles, the concrete may crack there.  If you have a 3,000 pound log on a 1,000 pound mill, that is 2 tons, and divided that into the square inches of surface on the pad.  many jack have what seems to be a 2 x 4 inch foot (prob. more)  if there are 6 of these jacks supporting the mill, then 6 x 8 is all the weight on 48 sq. inches or 83 pounds per sq. inch.  you could also put a chunk of wood under each jack say 12 x 12 and now you spread out the forces and reduce to 4.6 pounds per sq. inch.  if you will be dropping and scooting large logs, this will impart some dynamic forces as well in addition to the static force.  you have all kinds of options.  you can form a slab that is 4 inches in the interior, with a 6 inch thick edge for a foot reinforced with rebar like a beam or mass footing.  a simple 4 inch slab with some wire roll mesh in it is much better than what you currently have.  I have what you have at this point.  If you have well compacted soil, you can dig the holes for the footings, and pour it all in one pour.  it is only time and money. ;) :)
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor 12 volt tarp motor

Online doc henderson

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #41 on: September 18, 2021, 07:20:12 AM »
On the tires, unless they are suspended off the ground, then they are sharing part of the weight.  my jacks and tires are all in line,  I am liking the thicker edge with rebar along the edge better and better,  I think that is what I would do.
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor 12 volt tarp motor

Offline 2308500

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #42 on: September 18, 2021, 10:01:39 PM »
4 piers dug down 3 feet below grade  and 6 inch pad with rebar and wire mesh. overkill.....maybe...maybe not

 

Online thecfarm

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #43 on: September 19, 2021, 05:23:59 AM »
overkill? you will never know.  ;)
overkill has made me feel better about a build many times.  ;D
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Offline kelLOGg

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #44 on: October 24, 2021, 07:12:38 AM »
It is finally done. 4 x 27 with 2 x 4 for the tires and 4" thick. Packed gravel beneath all - but no rebar. My concrete guy said it wasn't necessary. Hope he's right. Good bunch of guys to watch work. I told them it was the first time I had watched people work. While it cures I will be getting my 1st cataract surgery.



 

 

 

 
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Offline Bindian

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #45 on: October 24, 2021, 02:28:24 PM »
No rebar?  I think your concrete guy is wrong.  Guess you won't be handling any huge logs.  I do hope I am wrong.
hugs,  Brandi
Mahindra 6520 4WD with loader/backhoe and a Caterpiller E70 Excavator.  My mill is a Woodmizer LT40HD Wide Diesel. An old Lull 644D-34 called Bull

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Offline kelLOGg

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #46 on: October 24, 2021, 03:47:19 PM »
32" dia is the max. Usually less than 16'. Fingers crossed. I guess what I failed to emphasize to him is that logs "fall" several inches when they are turned.
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Offline 230Dforme

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #47 on: October 24, 2021, 04:14:24 PM »
They didnt want to unload, carry, cut
or tie the rebar

Online doc henderson

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #48 on: October 24, 2021, 04:22:51 PM »
no option now but to wait and see.  I only use the plastic fiber when nothing else will work.  keep us in the loop!  thanks.  I used it in my pool floor under vinyl and in the 1.5 inch slab over plywood and trusses in my shop with floor heat, and it has done well.

I would put some relief cuts as it is long and skinny and will crack, even if you had put mesh and rebar in it.  
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor 12 volt tarp motor

Offline Bindian

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #49 on: October 24, 2021, 11:53:20 PM »
32" dia is the max. Usually less than 16'. Fingers crossed. I guess what I failed to emphasize to him is that logs "fall" several inches when they are turned.
Oh, okay.  Not too big.   When I load a huge 36 incher 20 feet 3 inches with the loader arms, if it rolls too fast on the bunks to the back stops, my whole mill moves, then settles back down with a thunk.  Think water shifting back and forth in a dog's water bowl.
All bets are off if you accidently drop a log while sitting it down on the bunks.
hugs,  Brandi
Mahindra 6520 4WD with loader/backhoe and a Caterpiller E70 Excavator.  My mill is a Woodmizer LT40HD Wide Diesel. An old Lull 644D-34 called Bull

My Hero is Johnny Jett

Offline kelLOGg

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #50 on: October 25, 2021, 05:42:30 AM »
I roll logs onto the mill over ramps from the rollway. The only "thunk" I get is when rotating to a new face.
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Offline bannerd

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Re: Concrete base for sawmill
« Reply #51 on: October 25, 2021, 07:07:21 AM »
Something that works pretty well is a ruble trench.  Have a backhoe come in and dig below the frost lines and then fill it with number 2 stone or number 1 stone.  Make sure he or she runs a drainage pipe at the bottom as the cold water/ice will absorb thermal the deeper it creeps.  It needs to run out at some point.  Compact it (not much to compact with stone) and when that is done, pour the concrete slab on top of that.


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