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sawdust Blower

Started by Quebecnewf, August 25, 2021, 04:10:50 PM

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Quebecnewf

For sure how I was trying it was not right . One line  in is connected to one one wire in either configuration. CW or CCW.

I'm quite sure it will run right once I get back in the workshop and try out the new hookup .

Still thinking about how to use it at the mill .

Use it ( somehow ) to blow sawdust from my band Mill or use it at the planer shed to blow planer chips into bins .

Time will tell . Sawdust blowing would be great because I hate shoveling the stuff .

Make it portable where I could use it at both jobs better yet.  

I have no electricity at my mill site other than running the generator . Don't think it would make sense to have both generator and mill running at the same time . The blower would only be blowing sawdust while I'm making the cut . The rest of the time the blower is blowing nothing but air . My best option is to start up the blower and generator at the end of the days sawing and blow the sawdust out then . 

Lots more thinking and sketching to do

Quebecnewf

If. Anyone has pics please feel free to post them

YellowHammer

I've tried blowing out sawdust debris that was in a big pile at the end of the day and it doesn't work real well because all the big bark chips are mixed in with the fine sawdust.  Big chips and blowers don't get along well, sooner of later one will blow the side out of the blower.  I've tried making screens, being careful (not my strong suit) and others things.

The best way I've seen to use a sawdust blower is to hook it directly up to the mill sawdust port, let the heavies fall out at the band protection fingers, and be done with the fine sawdust as it gets sucked out.
 

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

mike_belben

Im guessing here.. Not an electrician just a self taught on the job sort of fellow.. Thats the A phase and B phase are connected in series, meaning end to end in a straight line.  The B phase needs to be flipped within that chain to make a field that pulls the armature in the other direction.  The armature just chases magnetism in the housing and the windings are laid out in a way that the first pulse through the start winding generates a field that pulls the armature the right direction from a stop.   Atleast thats how i think it works.  

The B phase wires need to get switched relative to the A phase.   
Praise The Lord

Quebecnewf

Hooked it according to the diagram and she purrs like a kitten .

Going to hook it 240 at the mill . Still mulling over ideas .

It seems to really have lots of power


 
 We're making or last log tow  . 97 ready to go . Will tow them tomorrow morning . Not sure why they show sideways . Maybe the adm will fox that

Quebecnewf



 

You Sir have been out Foxed -    ADMIN.   :D



Al_Smith

Actually the start winding with the capacitor on a single phase motors causes what appears to be about a 30 degree phase shift which cause the rotation to commence .Once the rotation gets fast enough the start circuit is removed by way of the centrifugal   switch in series with the start winding .The winding alone can do it ,the cap just gives it a little extra kick .Fact being on some kits called hard start kits for like refrigeration units it's nothing more than a larger cap .On those rotary convertors I've made I've used large ones like 1500-2000 microfarad .  



 

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