572XP AutoTune

[Big_eddy]

A few tips
Before you disassemble, Take a picture of how the on off switch engages the carb lever. It’s straight forward, but important. Also note how the rubber gasket around the switch fits the saw body. It’s going to try to go back in different.
When you reinstall the carb, make sure the locking lever is properly engaged with the tab on the bottom of the right hand horn. 
Small needle nose pliers are useful for removing and installing the fuel lines. 
The white AT connector needs to be out of its holder before you disconnect it. When you reinstall it, each wire has its own slot.

Hope those help. You’ll do fine.

[petefrom bearswamp]

Spike60, so the saw should keep itself tuned properly just in normal sawing?

[will49766]

Big Eddy thanks for the tips. Is there anything I need to do to get the lock lever unlocked on disassembly?  Does the carb just pull away from the intake manifold?   What holds it in place?  What is the procedure to remove the carb, it is self explanatory?

[DHansen]

A question on the orange fuel filter vs the blue fuel filter.  Is it recommended to upgrade the saw to this new filter ASAP or should we wait till fuel filter replacement is due?  Seems like it would be a good idea to upgrade early since it is a better filter. 

[Spike60]

Pete, yes she's tuning all the time.

Dave, no big hurry for immediate filter change. I didn't do any of mine. Has as much to do with good fuel handling habits as anything. I've been doing OK with the regular filter for a while now. 

[KEC]

Spike 60, Amen to fuel handling habits. When I drove trucks another driver alluded that you need not be concerned about dirt getting into the fuel tank while refueling; the filter will get it. I just recently saw a guy using a chainsaw with the air filter off, sucking air and dust directly into the carb. He had a gas can with a missing cap. I peeked into the can and saw debris/dirt in the bottom. When I said something about it he dumped it out onto the ground. And he was a guy who cuts and sells firewood who should know better.

[petefrom bearswamp]

Thanks

[Big_eddy]

Big Eddy thanks for the tips. Is there anything I need to do to get the lock lever unlocked on disassembly?  Does the carb just pull away from the intake manifold?   What holds it in place?  What is the procedure to remove the carb, it is self explanatory?

My tips above and below are for the 562 XP cause I just went through 2 of them and they are fresh in my mind. I think the 572 is the same or close.  This is how I do it but others may follow a different sequence. 
The also may be a sequence in the service manual. I don’t  know
There are two long bolts hold the air box and carb on. Once out, there are two rubber straps, one on each side, that hold the airbox in place. Pop those off the studs. Disconnect the Z shaped fuel hose from the top of the carb and remove the air box. As it comes out, disconnect  the tank return fuel line at the purge bulb.
Disconnect the two electrical contracts for the on off switch. You can pry with a small screwdriver or use needle nose pliers. One wire is longer than the other so make a mental note. Set aside.
Now the carb is held on by the throttle cable, fuel line and the locking tab plus the AT wires on the other side 
Disconnect the throttle cable
Push down on the locking lever and rotate the carb clockwise slightly. Remove the fuel line. Now pull the carb back and then up and out, being careful of the AT wires.  Pop the AT connector out of its holder and disconnect. 
Done. 

[will49766]

Success!!! 

  Thanks again for everyone's input on this.  You guys nailed it.  Bad fuel caused the carb to gum up.

Here are before and after pictures of the internal filter.  It was a mess.













I still need to do a reset cut, but it's now running great!

Thanks for the step by step directions as well Big Eddy. 

[will49766]

Here are a couple pictures of the horn locking tab as well.  

I placed an arrow on it's location.









This was a great learning experience for sure.

[Big_eddy]

Success!!!

  Thanks again for everyone's input on this.  You guys nailed it.  Bad fuel caused the carb to gum up.

...

I still need to do a reset cut, but it's now running great!

Thanks for the step by step directions as well Big Eddy.

Happy to have helped and that you’re up and running again.

[Smgchandler]

Big i wanted to post just to make you feel better about your fuel.  I also purchased a new 572  About a year ago and saw performed perfect until few weeks ago.  Same symptoms as yours except i had not even finished the 3 cans of husky fuel !!   Saw is at dealer now getting fixed and the only difference i noticed was my primer bulb was very slow to return full when pressed so i know something was stopped up - assuming it is screen in carb.  It’s either filter in tank or something breaking down prior to fuel reaching screen in carb because i assume carb screen is stopped up.  I will post again on this after i pick saw up and ask questions to dealer.  I didn’t see a lot of post about new 572’s giving problems.  Guess we were just lucky !!  I didn’t have a problem with cleaning screen and replacing lines and filter but when a fella spends a grand for a saw - expects it to run problem free for years but i had a problem turning a screw on it with it still under warranty.  I have a dozen husky saws and some are 25 years old still running strong.  Am a fan of AT too so far and believe this is a filter break down problem and not AT problem.  I didn’t see blue or orange on the fuel filter - maybe white ?  Hopefully that was the problem.

[Log-it-up]

Kinda off subject but I figured I start here since it's on the 572xp
Question: dose any know if the chain break handle crosses over with any thing else or is it model pacific 
 And has any one had any problem with the sight on the fuel tank leaking and suggestions how to fix it 

[Spike60]

Other than the 565, the answer is no. Are they still on backorder? They were on backorder back in December. 

[Log-it-up]

So there the same as the 565?

[Log-it-up]

Another question for the saw guru's I'm the forum
I'm have a problem throwing chains when I limbing in heavy brush I tried different things with bars and chains from cheap to fairly expensive
Right now I'm using Husqvarna chain .50 3/8 84 drivers and a Oregon power cut bar and the same problem with it all at least once a day it will throw a chain most of the time I can salvage it in the field but some time I have to change them out do too driver damage I put on new bar ,basically brand new chain and drive sprocket on this morning and it happened again 
I find it sometime difficult to tighten the chain properly on my Husqvarna saw that I have (562,572) it seems like when I tighten the bar it gets bango tight so I have to compensate for that when tightening is this normal I guess it's kinda a two part question
I'm not green at cutting and felling but this kinda puts a damper in the day when I constantly putting a chain back on the side

[mudfarmer]

Can't help but have had the same trouble with 572 when limbing/lopping, keeping an eye on this for sure. Mostly have gone back to limbing w/ 346 just to avoid throwing the 572 chain.

[rusticretreater]

It sounds like you have a problem with the bearing or the clutch.  As things turn, they wobble and get loose again.  You need to take it apart all the way down to the shaft.  Inspect and replace parts as necessary or just because. Lubricate that bearing.  

Check your sprocket to make sure that you have the right one.  There are a thousand variations of sprockets and they are really similar in size.

One other thing, how far back in the slots are your adjusting/mounting bolts when you tighten up the chain? If you are nearing the end of the travel, your chain has stretched significantly and should be replaced.

[barbender]

I've always had to run my chain tighter than I like when in brush. The longer the bar, the harder it will be to keep it from happening. Brush makes harvesters throw chains too🤷

[donbj]

One thing I found very helpful when cutting brush is to "attack" it at 90 degrees. Try to avoid coming down at an angle at it. If the brush is at an angle to the chain it literally gets forced into the chain as its pulled down the bar/chain and can be forced under it, throwing it off. Try it out, I think you'll notice quite a difference. Keep chain tight.