E-Classic fusion chamber issue in Colorado-New Chamber!

renegadecj · September 30, 2009, 08:25:29 AM

My local dealer here in Colorado said he had not dealt with any fusion chamber issues. He had heard about them, but no fixes. I have him coming to check it out, but with all the experience here, I wanted to get your opinions first...

He also hasn't said anything about the brick on the side...should I contact CB?

Here are some pics of my e-classic. Looks to me like I have the same/similar issues to others here!

Opinions?

dva · September 30, 2009, 09:08:59 AM

I would contact CB. There is a newly designed fusion chamber available and they are well aware of the problems. In my short experience with them, they seem to always favor the customer and everyone I have talked to is ultimately satisfied. Good luck and please keep us posted on your fix.

Dave

MudBud · September 30, 2009, 05:26:00 PM

Yes, contact CB if he has not heard of it. Mine was just replaced by the dealer this past weekend with the new style.

JJ · October 03, 2009, 11:44:01 AM

It will be covered by your warrenty, but depending on your dealer; you may have to replace it yourself.

renegadecj · October 05, 2009, 12:58:24 PM

I was incorrect. My dealer now knows about the fusion chamber issue, and actually had the new one in my hands on saturday. Definitely a huge improvement, if the performance is maintained. This one is cast iron. No more warping!!! Got it all installed...one question. Regarding the 1" rope which goes in over the new chamber...the gap is only 1/4-3/8", do you try to push the rope into this gap, or just put it over the top?

He also mentioned removing the lower solenoid. Has anyone heard about doing that?

He also mentioned removing the lower solenoid. Has anyone heard about doing that?

dva · October 05, 2009, 09:20:27 PM

I have not heard of that...yet.

The lower solenoid? That would be the solenoid that is on the output of the fan. It's purpose is to allow for two different stages of air flow. The fan comes on and that solenoid stays de-engergized when the temperature differential is 5 degrees or less. If the water is more than 10 degrees cooler than the max temperature setting, that solenoid will activate and allow more total airflow to the system; both the primary firebox as well as the secondary combustion and reaction system. You can tell that it is activated by the little LED on the temperature display under the word "HIGH" being on. Removing that solenoid would effectively give you only one setting - high. It may be plausible, but I would not do that unless directed to by CB themselves.

Interesting.

Best regards,
Dave

MudBud · October 06, 2009, 06:42:04 PM

Renegade, the rope gets tucked around the new fusion chamber. It was a pain for my dealer. Do not lay it on top as the top bricks will not fit right. I do believe its still steel and not cast iron. I need to upload my photos.

Keith

renegadecj · October 07, 2009, 07:48:42 AM

Quote from: MudBud on October 06, 2009, 06:42:04 PM
Renegade, the rope gets tucked around the new fusion chamber. It was a pain for my dealer. Do not lay it on top as the top bricks will not fit right. I do believe its still steel and not cast iron. I need to upload my photos.

Keith

My dealer hasn't put his in yet, so he didn't have directions. He said to lay it on top. That was my prime reason for posting! That didn't seem right!

So I need to pull the fusion chamber back up, wrap the rope around it, and tuck back in, so it lays in the gap?

Might be steel...definitely a much heavier gauge. My dealer said it was cast, but as I said, he hasn't installed his own yet. I really like the feel of it...hopefully it works.

Thanks for the info...guess I have some more work to do before firing it up!

MudBud · October 07, 2009, 05:32:43 PM

Yes, tuck it around the fusion chamber. He used a stiff putty knife and flattip screwdriver....take your time, it wasn't easy

MudBud · October 07, 2009, 05:38:41 PM

Also, I was looking at your pictures again, my dealer removed all my bricks inside. He received a letter from Cb that they aren't needed. It helped clean up the area around the side holes. The only bricks persay left in the wood chamber are the two large pieces in the front and back section of the fusion chamber and the two top pieces on top of the fusion chamber.

This cleans up the inside pretty well and less places for creosote to build up.

Also I heard from another member asking if i had cracks along the side air holes as he was seeing them in his. I will look closer this weekend before firing it up.

renegadecj · October 08, 2009, 12:48:56 PM

Quote from: MudBud on October 07, 2009, 05:38:41 PM
Also, I was looking at your pictures again, my dealer removed all my bricks inside. He received a letter from Cb that they aren't needed. It helped clean up the area around the side holes. The only bricks persay left in the wood chamber are the two large pieces in the front and back section of the fusion chamber and the two top pieces on top of the fusion chamber.

This cleans up the inside pretty well and less places for creosote to build up.

Also I heard from another member asking if i had cracks along the side air holes as he was seeing them in his. I will look closer this weekend before firing it up.

I did remove all my bricks (except the ones you talk about). I don't have any cracks at the air holes either. I think it will work better without those bricks at the base, which I agree make it more likely to have creosote build up.

Thanks for the advice on the rope. I'll pull the chamber back up and try to put it back in. Seems strange that it isn't long enough to go all around, but rather just 3 sides. Do you trim the ends, which are not braided?

MudBud · October 08, 2009, 05:10:21 PM

No reason to pull the chamber back up, just tuck it around it in place. I think they did trim a little. Honestly I think its there to keep the fushion chamber from moving around as it now just sits on top of the lower bricks that had to be added in the reaction chamber.

leeallen5 · October 11, 2009, 05:28:25 PM

Mud Bud,
I am geeting my stove prepped for a new fusion chamber. My dealer has asked that I remove the 3 firebrick on each side which are located under the air holes on the side of the main burn chamber. I can't seem to dislodge them - even after using a crow bar, chisel and hammer. Do you have any method for removing the brick and refractory?

renegadecj · October 12, 2009, 08:10:39 AM

leeallen...
I used a 4" grinder and scored the brick a couple of times...one at the head joint, and one in the middle....then I was able to pop a pry bar in (kind of like a shingle shovel) and pop them out.

The refractory I did the same...I ran a grinder in the joints, and was able to get a long screwdriver in there.

ecrane99 · October 12, 2009, 08:34:57 AM

I removed my bricks just after shutting down the stove. With the stove being warm, the bricks came out easier along with the gooey cresote.

Ed

MudBud · October 12, 2009, 07:45:53 PM

As have most said already it takes time and bull work. My dealer just used putty knifes and scrapers to dislodge and then a prybar at the end. I do like the idea of the grinder and will try that if I ever need to.

I started my stove up yesterday and so far so good!!! What a difference a year makes, last year was all about learnings!!!1

renegadecj · October 13, 2009, 10:35:42 AM

I fired mine up this last saturday. It was cold, and my wife wanted the heat turned up (which we only keep at a minimum till the boiler is going).

With the new fusion chamber, the removed bricks, and an upgraded fan (replace the guts with one which had substantially more fins), it has worked flawlessly. Last year I fought bridging from day 1, and the fire kept going out. Hopefully this is a new day!!!