Shapers

[Norwiscutter]

Looking at getting a 5 hp, single phase shaper to do some t&g and light moulding. Have thus far been doing small runs on the router table and would definatly like to step up production a notch.  Nothing commercial, just a little faster thats all. what do ya all think about running T&G with such a set up, feasable or no?

[Wes]

I shiplaped 600 sq. ft. of red pine on one and it worked out fine. In a week or two I'll be doing the same to 650 sq. ft. of red oak, and I think I may have two more orders soon.
Yesterday I looked at a power feed attachment for $500. new [delta] and I think Im really going to need it if this keeps up.

 Go for it.  
 Wes

[pasbuild]

Is it feasible yes is it practical no, I have the same setup and find that taking rough-cut to a finished product using the jointer, table saw & shaper is just to time consuming.
 We have a local business that will run it at 9 cents lf. I bring mine to a buddies and we just work it out later (haven't exchanged money in years) good excuses to go visiting  ;)

[Norwiscutter]

I wish that I had a place like that around here to take my stuff.  The place up here won't run anyone elses stuff through their machines... don't want to take the chance that your boards are full of nails and have to replace the blades in their molders. I guess their wood comes from different forests than mine? ??? The handeling aspect of using the planer, jointer, table saw, and shaper to make T&G is definatly time consuming.  Speeding up one part of this process probably wont speed up the process much, but haveing the shaper in the shop would allow the for the ability to do alot of different mouldings and such for small projects.  

[shopteacher]

Wes,  If thats that baby feeder, i wouldn't bother. I have one at school (in pieces now) and the gears that run the rollers are plastic. Snapped right in half.  I have a 1/4 hp from grizzly and haven't had any problem with it. I think a lot of that Taiwan and Chinese stuff comes off the same line and painted different colors at the end. I've interchanged parts off the same type of machine but different brand names.
   I have a bridgewwod and a delta shaper and they both work well. The delta is older but runs like a champ. The bridgewood has a tilting spindle and sliding table, it too is a nice machine about 2500 new. At school I have a 3 hp. grizzly and haven't had any trouble with it. It about 4 or 5 yr. old now

[Wes]

teach,
I checked out deltas line, 3 models-1hp, 1model 1/4 hp, and 1model 1/8 hp. I dont like the way the 1/8 hp looks, it may be another brand painted gray.the 1hp's are too big and $$$ for me that leaves the 1/4 hp, thanks for the heads up on the gears, if they are plastic I definately wont buy it. I like to buy quality tools that should last.I'll also check out the grizzly on your recomendation.

Thanks,
Wes

[woodmills1]

For years I made do with a craftsman 1/2 HP shaper, but finally upgraded to a Reliant 1.5.  I have run many feet through it with no problem, till I let the chips build up inside the base and it took out the switch.  With small table macines you have to get creative about hold downs so the ends of long pieces dont get misshapen.

[Lanny]

NORWISCUTTER,  I have used the shaper system, it will work alright for t&g, shiplap or any of the edge treatments. Where the problems start is when you try to make a face moulding. I had real problems  keeping the boards tight to the cutter, if it moves a small fraction of an inch you will loose the profile. If you are only making your own mouldings and you can live with  it fine but it just don't work commercialy.