stihl 024 crank seals

[ladrhog]

 

  This is the clutch side seal and it is leaking what looks like outside the seal.  It is where the red is that it is leaking.  I have never done one before and am looking for advice.  from the looks of a new seal it looks like the seal isn't leaking.  need some advice from someone who knows more than me

[nmurph]

No, crank seals leak around the rubber. Why do you think it is leaking around the machined surfaces? When you pull the seal, eye-ball the seat for irregularities. Both the seal and the case should be smooth. Loc-tite makes some sealants that will fill minor voids if needed (which I doubt).

[joe_indi]

ladrhog,

This is a regular occurrence here.
Resin and fine sawdust cause the crank bearings to become slightly sluggish. This in turn causes the outer part of the bearing, seated on the crankcase to start rotating.In no time it becomes a 'freewheeling'  bearing.And when that happens the air leaks start similar to what has happened with your 024.
Since my country has cheaper working bills, I get the seats re-sleeved with thicker cast iron inserts that last for ages.
If,  in your area, the costs for doing this are prohibitive, here is an alternative cure, which though effective might be more temporary.
Drive out the bearing from the crankcase.
Cut out a piece of very fine steel mesh (something similar to the mesh that comes on air filters)
Apply epoxy to the mesh and line it in the bearing seat.
Tap the bearing back into position.
Wait till the epoxy has set before you start it. ( retain a drop of epoxy on a piece of paper. When this drop sets the epoxy in the bearing seat too would have set)

Joe

[ladrhog]

joe, you are correct the bearing is turning.  if I am not mistaken the bearing is not pressed into the case it just rides on the crankshaft.  so does the seal press into the inside of the bearing.

[AdkStihl]

The bearing should be a press fit both ID and OD.
Should be press fit into the case and also onto the crank stub.

[ladrhog]

ok so I can turn the bearing with my fingers right now.  what is the fix or is the saw junk

[nmurph]

Just to be clear: you can turn the bearing race in the seat? If so, yes, you will need to find another case and it might be easier to find a complete bottom end and swap you cylinder, muffler, carb, etc...onto it.

[ladrhog]

ok so in the picture the seal which is gold is fit into a ring that is chrome which rotates and has a little bit of play.  could it be that the bearing isn't seated right.  I guess I will be pulling it apart and see what is going on.  I picked the saw up for $20.00.  It has 150 psi of compression and runs although wont idle and the carb wont tune.   

[nmurph]

You can't know if the bearing is spinning unless you have the seal out. I think what you are seeing is the crankshaft and it should be spinning. I really doubt you have spun a bearing. There are some models are more prone to that problem, but I don't think I have ever heard of an 026 spinning one.

I bet a set of crank seals will fix your problem. I would also replace the impulse and fuel line when I was at it.

[joe_indi]

ok so I can turn the bearing with my fingers right now.  what is the fix or is the saw junk

Simple option would be to replace the crankcase.
If with a new one, both sides come together as a set with the bearings already in place. Not cheap
Next option is to look around for a junked 024 that has a good crankcase. Cheaper
3rd option is look around for just an intact clutch side piece of the crankcase. Cheaper still.
4th option is what I have mentioned in my earlier post.
5th option? Ahem, there is indeed such an option. Get that bearing out, 'flash' the outer at about 8 spots all around with an arc weld electrode at low ampere, Smoothen the flash. You now have a bearing that has an over-size OD.Tap it in and you are good to go.But this finishes off that crankcase.If I were to opt for this, I would do it with a new bearing which will ensure maximum life for the crankcase.
Joe

[nmurph]

He doesn't know if he has a spun bearing or not. He is seeing the crank turning and thinking it is the bearing.

[AdkStihl]

If the outer race of the bearing (what you have shown in red) is rotating within the crankcase, there aren't too many repair options for ya unless you've done this kinda repair before and judging by some responses, I assume this is a first.
If the outer race is rotating within the case, I would replace the crankcases or simply that particular case halve.
Contact Scott or Levi @ www.chainsawr.com  802-533-7133
They'll have some parts for you to get that little bugger goin again.

Your other option is to sell it to me. I'll give you $30  ;)

[ladrhog]

OK hope this helps.  I have put a line with a sharpie and then rotated what rotates.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yG-dZOD-8hI&feature=youtu.be

[Al_Smith]

She's spun allright .There are options .

First you have to split the cases which with a spun bearing won't be hard.Take a prick punch and raise the metal within the pocket . It's knurling in a sense.Get new bearing of course and use a product made by Loctite called press fit .Install the bearing by first freezing the bearing and heating the case .Drive it in with compound and let it set for a day .Use something like a socket which fits nicely on the outer race .Don't drive on the inner race.

Freeze the crankshaft for a day and just prior to assembley use a soldering iron which just fits within the inner race to heat it up a tad bit . Assemble quickly .

[AdkStihl]

Knurling the case should work. Its really the only "free" option. This was a known problem with the 064.

Loctite 609 (retaining compound) along with knurling the case will work, but don't plan on ever using that case half again if it fails.

[firefighterwolf]

Part the saw out and sell the pieces on fleebay.

Starter $20
Clutch Cover $20
Muffler $20
Cylinder & Piston $60
Flywheel & Ignition $20
etc
etc
etc