sharpening a saw chain

[21ftnitro]

Here's one for you guys. So I've got the carb adjusted on my new saw thanks to some great advice from some members and im feeling better about that. I've been cutting a lot of really hard dead oak. So naturally also from reading lots of posts I need a good sharp chain. I got myself a file kit with guide and depth gauge setter as well as the 7/32 round file that the super 70 chain calls for. So I've been sharpening along and the chain feels likes its pretty sharp
Ive stayed as close to the 25 degree angle and 10 degree from level as i can. I keep getting like a bur on the outside of the tooth at the round part. Am i doing something wrong?

[thecfarm]

How's it cut? Does it pull into the wood?

[ZeroJunk]

Try sharpening in to it instead of away from it. And, the burr will come right off as soon  as you use it.

[21ftnitro]

It seems to cut straight thecfarm.
Zerojunk,

Are you saying to go like 4 stroke the normal way and then a stroke or 2 outside in. Or do the whole thing from the outside in.

[Andyshine77]

It seems to cut straight thecfarm.
Zerojunk,

Are you saying to go like 4 stroke the normal way and then a stroke or 2 outside in. Or do the whole thing from the outside in.

That will work. However it sounds to me like you may be removing too much material. If you look at the working corner, and  edge of the top plate, you don't want to see any reflection on the corner or top edge. If you do see some reflection of light "do to the rounding over of the leading edge" file the tooth until the reflection is gone.

Very dull tooth. Never let a tooth get this dull.

      

Sharpe teeth.

 


    

[HolmenTree]

You may be putting a little too much pressure on the file creating the burr. Don't file into the working corner of the tooth as thats specially for square ground chisel chain not round filing as Andre's last pic shows.
If your concerned about the burr on the side plate just rub it off with a piece of hardwood or with the end of your file handle. The first few cuts in a log will take care of the burrs anyway.
But some people are fussy ....those loose burrs may take a little off the sharp cutting edge in the kerf. :D

[Andyshine77]

I was wondering who would catch the square ground.

[21ftnitro]

Thanks as always for the lesson guys. Those pictures help alot. Im going to give it shot.

[Dave Shepard]

I was wondering who would catch the square ground.

It's pretty obvious to square ground users. Another sharpening or two and you'll want to clean up that gullet.  ;)  :D

[John Mc]

As others have mentioned, the burr should disappear after a couple of cuts. It's not really a big deal to have a burr, though it can be a sign you are pressing too hard on the file (possibly you need to press hard because your file is dull or loaded up with crud?)

[HolmenTree]

The only time I get a burr in the sideplate is when  I rock out a chain and then file with more pressure  then normal  to get it over with and back to cutting.

[ZeroJunk]

It seems to cut straight thecfarm.
Zerojunk,

Are you saying to go like 4 stroke the normal way and then a stroke or 2 outside in. Or do the whole thing from the outside in.

I have sharpened them in to the chain and away from the chain and I have never seen that it makes any difference. It is harder to sharpen in to the chain but you don't get the burr.

[Dave Shepard]

Sharpen from behind the chrome. I guess that would be from the inside out in this scenario. Any burr would be gone as soon as you put it in the wood.

[ZeroJunk]

Sharpen from behind the chrome. I guess that would be from the inside out in this scenario. Any burr would be gone as soon as you put it in the wood.

Why ?

[Dave Shepard]

Chrome is very brittle, but tough when supported by the substrate of soft steel and will wear well in use. When you file from the inside, the chrome basically snaps off for lack of a better description, and the file isn't actually cutting the chrome. When you file from the outside in, and the file has to cut the chrome, it is hard on the file. I know most people file square chain outside in, but that is only a result of people trying to hand file the chain. Some believe it is easier because they can see the whole profile of the tooth. I think it is much easier to file the same as a round filed chain, from the inside out. Six-sided files for square are much more expensive than round and seem to last longer when not cutting chrome.

[HolmenTree]

I worked in the bush with a highly skilled Swiss logger who sharpened  all his cutters from the right side of the bar.
Left hand cutters he'd  file normally,  then the right ones he'd  file into them. That was how he did  it all  his  life  and it worked  very well for him.
Then  years  later when I started  milling  with  a Alaskan chain  saw mill, I realized my old Swiss logging partner's technique worked perfect to file the chain with the mill in place on the b/c.

[ZeroJunk]

I don't even know why I started sharpening them outside in. Just always have and it works fine. I'll try it the other way out of curiosity if nothing else.

[Andyshine77]

Sharpening from the outside in is the preferred method, as it produces a cleaner edge. However the file can grab the edge of the tooth, so you better have the chain in a vice. The reason I and most round file from the inside out, is simply because it's easier, and the benefits from filing from the outside are minimal.   

[Straightgrain]

I worked in the bush with a highly skilled Swiss logger who sharpened  all his cutters from the right side of the bar.
Left hand cutters he'd  file normally,  then the right ones he'd  file into them. That was how he did  it all  his  life  and it worked  very well for him.
Then  years  later when I started  milling  with  a Alaskan chain  saw mill, I realized my old Swiss logging partner's technique worked perfect to file the chain with the mill in place on the b/c.

I recently had an Arborist come up and drop a tree that was way-too close to my well-house for me to handle; the point: before he cranked up his saw, he touched-up his chain, and he did all the teeth from the right side of the bar also. The saw went through the 33" Douglas Fir as if it was a Light Sabre.

OP: I've tried "in" and "out" but never a mix; will try all from the right side next time.

Keeping the depth gauges at relatively the same height is an important task that some people don't realize until they are in their 50's.... :