I started my first cabin - notch and pass - video

[lshobie]

Ive started my first cabin, butt and pass D log green....I know green logs but this is an experiment for me while we season logs for our house and other out cabins.

Have a look if interested.

            [url=https://youtu.be/DhtWlGFHzaQ]Off Grid Log Cabin build - selecting trees and cutting. - YouTube          [/url]

[Ljohnsaw]

 :P

[kantuckid]

Take a look/see via google at the Montana located Amish log builders under the Meadowlark Log Homes company name. There are many videos listed that show all aspects of their builds, including one D-log version. 
Mostly they use two-sided stack log to build but also have what seems to be the only style I've seen of their corner joints. Consists of a 45 deg pointed nose placed into a chainsawn notch. Their D-log builds are done on customer request, not their regular builds.  

 If you look hard enough there's a very unique & interesting video that takes you into their lifestyle and features young and old speaking about their groups Amish lifestyle. They are what I'll call a more modern, more liberal Amish, yet sincere & steadfast in their church. They've been out there since the first family went to MT in 1970's.  

[lshobie]

Yes thats where I got the idea to be honest - makes the most sense for people with little time and who have the equipment.  Im loving this build - very satisfying.

Milling the D logs

            [url=https://youtu.be/b160MpJd3nc]Milling "D" Logs for our Off Grid Cabin - YouTube           [/url]

Starting the walls

            [url=https://youtu.be/qrkGAwg2L54]Building the Walls Off Grid Cabin build - YouTube          [/url]

[Ljohnsaw]

Interesting method.  You have 2 logs that are butts on both ends and 2 logs that are pass on both ends.  The "normal" way I've seen is each log to have a butt end and a pass end.  Also the butt with a square end with the pass all in one direction on even layers and the pass reversed on the odd layers.  Then trim the pass ends when done.  I guess your way is a little tighter and more rodent proof but looks to take a bit more time and finesse?

[Jim_Rogers]

You probably have already moved on but my idea to offset the issue of dealing with the height and trying to do it standing on ladders or other methods, would be to remove one or two layers on the base you have already and set them aside. Then build two more layers on that base.
Again, move those new layers off and do it again until you reach the height you want.
You can also build your roof on three or four layers so you are lower to the ground so you can reach everything without ladders.

Good luck with your project.

Jim Rogers 

[lshobie]

Interesting method.  You have 2 logs that are butts on both ends and 2 logs that are pass on both ends.  The "normal" way I've seen is each log to have a butt end and a pass end.  Also the butt with a square end with the pass all in one direction on even layers and the pass reversed on the odd layers.  Then trim the pass ends when done.  I guess your way is a little tighter and more rodent proof but looks to take a bit more time and finesse?

Ya we had lined them up like that at first and then decided to try it this way - honestly it's just an experiment that ive wanted to try to so ill see how it turns out!  Thanks for watching.

[lshobie]

You probably have already moved on but my idea to offset the issue of dealing with the height and trying to do it standing on ladders or other methods, would be to remove one or two layers on the base you have already and set them aside. Then build two more layers on that base.
Again, move those new layers off and do it again until you reach the height you want.
You can also build your roof on three or four layers so you are lower to the ground so you can reach everything without ladders.

Good luck with your project.

Jim Rogers

Yes that's a great idea, at first we figured we would build the walls and just leave it up until it was time to dissassemble but it is getting tricky to work on for sure so it's coming down.  I have 7 more layers to do so that is easy to handle.  The roof will be done on the ground for sure and it's a 5/12 pitch so it wont be very high at all.  Thanks for watching.

[kantuckid]

The MT Amish do a log with both ends the same such that they can tighten the outer log against the butt end each time around at both ends. The butts have a 45 deg nose that is foamed into what you might call a mortise cut to match, then pulled in with two 6" timber screws. There D-log build they are using foam tape and construction adhesive. The owner they contracted that one home with is an active participant so he may have called for the adhesive.
I was first planning to use dovetails but switched plan to the MT Amish thing but using D-logs. 
On my home build I traded sawmilled logs around a few times as walls went up to keep my build level. Their main website has a construction details link that shows log wall fastner spacings, log wall opening details, and much other basic practices. 
    

[lshobie]

The MT Amish do a log with both ends the same such that they can tighten the outer log against the butt end each time around at both ends. The butts have a 45 deg nose that is foamed into what you might call a mortise cut to match, then pulled in with two 6" timber screws. There D-log build they are using foam tape and construction adhesive. The owner they contracted that one home with is an active participant so he may have called for the adhesive.
I was first planning to use dovetails but switched plan to the MT Amish thing but using D-logs.
On my home build I traded sawmilled logs around a few times as walls went up to keep my build level. Their main website has a construction details link that shows log wall fastner spacings, log wall opening details, and much other basic practices.
   

I just checked out their site and it has great info on it thanks, ill definitely be accessing it.  Cheers.

[lshobie]

Some log prep


             https://youtu.be/ZsYNu1mTKk8           

[lshobie]

Tidied up the building location.

 

 

[BUGGUTZ]

This is great! I am inspired. My property in Northern Michigan is loaded with tall Red Pine. I am hoping to build a small trapper shack on a secluded section. I will be following your build, Keep up the hard work!

Chuck

[lshobie]

This is great! I am inspired. My property in Northern Michigan is loaded with tall Red Pine. I am hoping to build a small trapper shack on a secluded section. I will be following your build, Keep up the hard work!

Chuck

It is surprisingly easy!  If you figure out the diameter you can work with its pretty easy to figure out how many logs you need.  I milled at 6 inches but next time can probably get 7 out of them - or use 6's and 7's on every other course to maximize the use out of each log.  By the time im done ill be up around 60 trees for the cabin and I sold about half a tandem of everything under 8 inch diameter.
Next vid in the series and I should get the rest of the logs milled to complete the walls tomorrow and start on the roof this week.

             https://youtu.be/Nws_CveeNGo           

[lshobie]

Just finished the walls and starting the roof section.
           https://youtu.be/8PvgoELWQe4         

[kantuckid]

Some random thoughts since we are doing a similar build:

>Using the same type corners and the many rainy days lately, I made a simple plywood template to mark my 45 degree log ends and same template has the 45 deg notch positioned to the log end cut as well. I'm not new to chainsaws for sure but I prefer having the corners marked out with a Sharpie before I cut. 
 
>I'll be using a pair of 6" bugle head screws to pull the corners cuts together as do the MT Amish. I ordered my 9" & 6" screws along with foam tape gaskets this week.

 >The Amish blow some foam into the corner cuts. My assumption is that they have the cut done then blow it on the cuts and assemble? 

 >Regarding the bevel edges you mentioned on inside wall log surfaces, my plan is to run my small trim router down the two edges as I cut and stack logs.

>How do you plan to "seal", etc., the log ends as you join logs on a wall run? Spline or tape or both? 

> I will not stack and cut, then move again to the actual build, mine will be cut and done as I go.  
The D logs I'm currently working on are mostly the same size as yours, but some are wider (using bigger logs than I preferred) and I'll use them down low then go narrower as I get higher by sorting as I stack them for later use.

 >My 20 x 16 build has one door and 4 windows down low then two gable windows. 
My log home I built log gables but based on my age, I'm going with stick frame gables this time around. 

>I can tell you from experience to have some wood clamps around to persuade the boards when you place your T&G. 
Kit companies suggest that the T&G gets a small bead of caulking in the end grooves at gable ends so water doesn't travel inside the cabin even when trimmed out. 
I gun nailed my homes room addition 2x6 T&G ceiling boards but will use Torx screws this time around.

I look forward to seeing yours go together for good! Thanks for the video.    

 

 
 
    

[lshobie]

That's some great info!  And I've been watching ML's vids as they are very informative.  For my next build I will do a few things differently for sure.



>Using the same type corners and the many rainy days lately, I made a simple plywood template to mark my 45 degree log ends and same template has the 45 deg notch positioned to the log end cut as well. I'm not new to chainsaws for sure but I prefer having the corners marked out with a Sharpie before I cut. 

Great idea!

>I'll be using a pair of 6" bugle head screws to pull the corners cuts together as do the MT Amish. I ordered my 9" & 6" screws along with foam tape gaskets this week.

Yes I have those already.

>The Amish blow some foam into the corner cuts. My assumption is that they have the cut done then blow it on the cuts and assemble? 

They cut the tip off the "V" and fill that space with expanding foam as I understand it...

>Regarding the bevel edges you mentioned on inside wall log surfaces, my plan is to run my small trim router down the two edges as I cut and stack logs.

Yes I have made a groove for the weather strip with my 3hp router and will make the bevel when we are erecting it.

>How do you plan to "seal", etc., the log ends as you join logs on a wall run? Spline or tape or both? 

Not exactly sure what you mean - ill be using log home wx strip on a groove on the top of each log course, the notch ends get the expanding foam injected and trimmed when dry - then interior chinking, then exterior chinking as well - a bead of it.  The exposed but ends get a timber treatment for fungus and bugs...as does the whole cabin....I hate hearing bugs chewing at night.


> I will not stack and cut, then move again to the actual build, mine will be cut and done as I go.  
The D logs I'm currently working on are mostly the same size as yours, but some are wider (using bigger logs than I preferred) and I'll use them down low then go narrower as I get higher by sorting as I stack them for later use.

>My 20 x 16 build has one door and 4 windows down low then two gable windows.
My log home I built log gables but based on my age, I'm going with stick frame gables this time around. 

Ill use log gables - I don't want to have to buy anything and I have the logs too I'll just use them.

>I can tell you from experience to have some wood clamps around to persuade the boards when you place your T&G.
Kit companies suggest that the T&G gets a small bead of caulking in the end grooves at gable ends so water doesn't travel inside the cabin even when trimmed out.
I gun nailed my homes room addition 2x6 T&G ceiling boards but will use Torx screws this time around.

Great idea!

I look forward to seeing yours go together for good! Thanks for the video.   

More vids coming!  Will be late June I suspect.

Cheers.! 





   

[Don P]

One thing to think about, rafters form a rigid triangle, the triangular stack of gable logs wants to settle. That's probably going to cause gaps or deflection in the gable. If you look at most log cabins if it has rafters it has stick framed gables, if it has solid log gables it usually has a purlin roof with log purlins spanning from gable to gable, and more detailing.

[kantuckid]

The log seal question I mentioned was toward your butt joints in the run of a wall using several pieces of D logs. Some use a saw cut and a plywood spline, My home I used foam gasket tape double run butts and all logs.  Other than a power planer double pass on my wall logs belly, I'm relying on the foam strips and spray foam corners.

I just watched you cutting D logs video. I can tell you this as regards the log sawn surfaces rounding as they dry: My home (1979-80) uses SYP 6" thick logs from a CCC plantation, all except the floor level logs have with two bark edges. There is no visual rounding of the tops or bottoms. There are typical drying cracks from some edges toward the heart. Interestingly, if you look at a bunch of log ends inside or outside you see quite a few logs that have zero season cracks. They were all logged at the same time and no particular variables such as size or when sawed, etc.. My current build is EWP which is likely to be even more stable. 

I see no logic to cutting off the tip of the 45 degree end cuts? My jig marks up the log tip blunt to begin with! :D
My concave "V-cut" will also be blunted, not a full "V" in depth.

My build site is tight on one length and end. Stacking gable logs on the far end presents a challenge I'd rather avoid. Those materials come out of the same logs so no particular cost involved except the 30 cents BF lumber plus sawbill and fasteners. 

The MT Meadowlark Log builders use building/room length log purlins, perched on log gables then run the 2x T&G decking from roof peak to overhangs. They build their roofs for colder weather than mine need be. This cabin will have no roof insulation.
My roof is rafter beams with collar ties pegged & notched top and collars then my T&G runs at a 90 deg to rafters the length of building including ends with 2' overhangs. I also have half the build length with log ceiling joists and the open end has tie log beams to the walls.
 
My home I built log gables and has common rafters. Honestly I don't see the deviations but they certainly make sense as Don P states. Candidly my home has several errors in it based on log building wisdom yet had no real issues from settling. Latest "issue" is a huge bunch of squirrels here. They have chewed the crap out of my front picture window log extension! It stays an open war zone until I see none around.  

Jobbing out my D log/sawmill job to a man who has a LT40 hyd. and a helper was toward two large realities, my age and my mill being manual. It's going slow, lots of rain and now his helper is sick, makes me think I'll be pressed to think I'll be stacking logs all the way up before winter. Has me thinking tarps and logs ready to go come next spring, or maybe not and things will pick up? Labor is the larger issue as my current helper is likely to be back at his machine shop job come late summer. 
It's sure not a world I'd want to run a business in that had me shopping for workers or even one worker!  

[lshobie]

One thing to think about, rafters form a rigid triangle, the triangular stack of gable logs wants to settle. That's probably going to cause gaps or deflection in the gable. If you look at most log cabins if it has rafters it has stick framed gables, if it has solid log gables it usually has a purlin roof with log purlins spanning from gable to gable, and more detailing.

Yes I plan on using Perlins spanning the length and that is a great point.  Ill use Perlins and then Im fastening 1.5 inch thick pine board to it - think Ill have an issue?

[Don P]

As the gable settles the widest pair of purlins is on the least height of logs, next purlin up is on more logs, ect.  

If you think about it the difference in height comes mostly from the peak and is driving down and out on the sheathing boards. How much depends on moisture, tightness, gravity and how big, small span is probably not a big deal as the building gets bigger it would be worth doing something. I remember a section in one of Mackie's books if its of concern.

[kantuckid]

The Meadowlark Amish builders use spray foam to seal up their log corner joints. I'm familiar with the first foam (yep, I had it all over my hands ;D) that came on the market long time back and that same companies foam with less expansion, that I've used around doors & windows when installed. 

Now there are multiple brands of foam, spray can gun/tools to hold and dispense them, cleaners for the guns, etc..

Given that I'll not be working with a crew, my log joints will go slowly and the foam being expensive and reality that it sets up fast, I'm asking if anyone can suggest what foam brands or types I might consider for extended use or any other logical consideration? 

The perfect answer is an economical, foam type sealant that can be used up sort of slowly and not setup between uses too fast.
Ideas? 
  
 

[kantuckid]

As the gable settles the widest pair of purlins is on the least height of logs, next purlin up is on more logs, ect.  

If you think about it the difference in height comes mostly from the peak and is driving down and out on the sheathing boards. How much depends on moisture, tightness, gravity and how big, small span is probably not a big deal as the building gets bigger it would be worth doing something. I remember a section in one of Mackie's books if its of concern.

The largest settlement error I made was in copying (sort of) a kit that used a log extending from the main building corners to the top of the porch corner posts. Between me and their engineer/architects that sure doesn't take into consideration that a porch post is a fixed height, but a log corner is not! 
When I screened in my front porch and redid the back porch, I placed new, corrected vertical posts on the porches.
My small cabin build this time around- the porch roof wont extend for support in that same fashion, I'll do more of a "Pioneer style" porch roof.