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Interesting method. You have 2 logs that are butts on both ends and 2 logs that are pass on both ends. The "normal" way I've seen is each log to have a butt end and a pass end. Also the butt with a square end with the pass all in one direction on even layers and the pass reversed on the odd layers. Then trim the pass ends when done. I guess your way is a little tighter and more rodent proof but looks to take a bit more time and finesse?
You probably have already moved on but my idea to offset the issue of dealing with the height and trying to do it standing on ladders or other methods, would be to remove one or two layers on the base you have already and set them aside. Then build two more layers on that base.Again, move those new layers off and do it again until you reach the height you want.You can also build your roof on three or four layers so you are lower to the ground so you can reach everything without ladders.Good luck with your project.Jim Rogers
The MT Amish do a log with both ends the same such that they can tighten the outer log against the butt end each time around at both ends. The butts have a 45 deg nose that is foamed into what you might call a mortise cut to match, then pulled in with two 6" timber screws. There D-log build they are using foam tape and construction adhesive. The owner they contracted that one home with is an active participant so he may have called for the adhesive.I was first planning to use dovetails but switched plan to the MT Amish thing but using D-logs. On my home build I traded sawmilled logs around a few times as walls went up to keep my build level. Their main website has a construction details link that shows log wall fastner spacings, log wall opening details, and much other basic practices.
This is great! I am inspired. My property in Northern Michigan is loaded with tall Red Pine. I am hoping to build a small trapper shack on a secluded section. I will be following your build, Keep up the hard work!Chuck
One thing to think about, rafters form a rigid triangle, the triangular stack of gable logs wants to settle. That's probably going to cause gaps or deflection in the gable. If you look at most log cabins if it has rafters it has stick framed gables, if it has solid log gables it usually has a purlin roof with log purlins spanning from gable to gable, and more detailing.
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