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Author Topic: Grinder vs. file  (Read 9651 times)

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Offline axeman2021

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Re: Grinder vs. file
« Reply #20 on: March 21, 2021, 09:53:21 AM »
Reading in another chainsaw forum this morning where someone paid $1,300+tax and shipping for a Simington 451 C Square Chise grinder with stand.

I read in this forum where a member was paying $4 bucks at his dealer for a machine sharpening, my dealer wanted $10 but after talking with him he said it's $10 if we have to remove chain from the saw you take it off i will do it for $4.

So since i don't have hundreds of chains to deal with and new chains run from $15 to $25 for my saws, and just getting into doing some hand filing, and reading what other forum members are posting about their take and results of hand filing think i will have to decide if i can get by with a few hand sharping and paying $4 dollars for my dealer to do it.

Offline Skeans1

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Re: Grinder vs. file
« Reply #21 on: March 21, 2021, 11:35:07 AM »
Reading in another chainsaw forum this morning where someone paid $1,300+tax and shipping for a Simington 451 C Square Chise grinder with stand.

I read in this forum where a member was paying $4 bucks at his dealer for a machine sharpening, my dealer wanted $10 but after talking with him he said it's $10 if we have to remove chain from the saw you take it off i will do it for $4.

So since i don't have hundreds of chains to deal with and new chains run from $15 to $25 for my saws, and just getting into doing some hand filing, and reading what other forum members are posting about their take and results of hand filing think i will have to decide if i can get by with a few hand sharping and paying $4 dollars for my dealer to do it.
Remember a Simington or a Silvey are normally for square chisel chain thatís different grinder completely from a round chisel chain grinder.

Offline axeman2021

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Re: Grinder vs. file
« Reply #22 on: March 21, 2021, 12:42:21 PM »
Reading in another chainsaw forum this morning where someone paid $1,300+tax and shipping for a Simington 451 C Square Chise grinder with stand.

I read in this forum where a member was paying $4 bucks at his dealer for a machine sharpening, my dealer wanted $10 but after talking with him he said it's $10 if we have to remove chain from the saw you take it off i will do it for $4.

So since i don't have hundreds of chains to deal with and new chains run from $15 to $25 for my saws, and just getting into doing some hand filing, and reading what other forum members are posting about their take and results of hand filing think i will have to decide if i can get by with a few hand sharping and paying $4 dollars for my dealer to do it.
Remember a Simington or a Silvey are normally for square chisel chain thatís different grinder completely from a round chisel chain grinder.
Thank you for the information i should have used maybe the Oregon 410 at around $190 dollars, still it's money spent for a sharping system more then a simple hand filing of our chains.
I am open to looking at other ways to sharpen my chains, i have seen this Timberline sharping jig selling for around $110 dollars still a lot more then what i have in my 2&1 sharpner that has worked pretty well so far but i am guessing not as well as a real shop sharping or using the Oregon sharpner.
This is the really good thing about this forum, lots of people who have used many different sharping systems letting us know what they have found good and bad about them.

Offline barbender

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Re: Grinder vs. file
« Reply #23 on: March 21, 2021, 01:00:19 PM »
For round filing, the 2n1 sharpener works great👍
Too many irons in the fire

Offline axeman2021

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Re: Grinder vs. file
« Reply #24 on: March 21, 2021, 01:38:22 PM »
For round filing, the 2n1 sharpener works great👍
Right now it's about all i can afford i am still waiting for the $1,400 everyone is already getting.

Offline barbender

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Re: Grinder vs. file
« Reply #25 on: March 21, 2021, 02:33:40 PM »
Use a stump vice or some other method for holding the bar firm, and it works great.
Too many irons in the fire

Offline axeman2021

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Re: Grinder vs. file
« Reply #26 on: March 21, 2021, 02:52:37 PM »
Use a stump vice or some other method for holding the bar firm, and it works great.
At first i used my vice but after sticking my stump vice into a board, i am now using it on my small bench, it gives me all the support i need and is simple to pick it up installed on bar and turn it around for sharping the other side of the chain.

Offline Greenhighlander

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Re: Grinder vs. file
« Reply #27 on: March 21, 2021, 04:11:52 PM »
I have always been really bad for filing down one side more then the other . I have tried everything I could think of to even it out by hand but for whatever reason I couldn't fix it.  That never really mattered doing trail cutting and firewood but I figured it did with milling so I bought one of these and have been really really happy with not only the job it does but how fast it is once I got use to using it. 



 

Offline axeman2021

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Re: Grinder vs. file
« Reply #28 on: March 21, 2021, 04:45:23 PM »
I have always been really bad for filing down one side more then the other . I have tried everything I could think of to even it out by hand but for whatever reason I couldn't fix it.  That never really mattered doing trail cutting and firewood but I figured it did with milling so I bought one of these and have been really really happy with not only the job it does but how fast it is once I got use to using it.


(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

Could you tell me just what it is.

Offline sablatnic

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Re: Grinder vs. file
« Reply #29 on: March 21, 2021, 06:39:07 PM »
File for me, a file doesn't make much noise doesn't blow dust over everything in the shed, and I can relax with just my saw and my file.
And the chain gets way sharper than any grinder I've tested - and I can use all of every cutter.

And I enjoy filing.



 

Offline Skeans1

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Re: Grinder vs. file
« Reply #30 on: March 21, 2021, 06:58:51 PM »
Reading in another chainsaw forum this morning where someone paid $1,300+tax and shipping for a Simington 451 C Square Chise grinder with stand.

I read in this forum where a member was paying $4 bucks at his dealer for a machine sharpening, my dealer wanted $10 but after talking with him he said it's $10 if we have to remove chain from the saw you take it off i will do it for $4.

So since i don't have hundreds of chains to deal with and new chains run from $15 to $25 for my saws, and just getting into doing some hand filing, and reading what other forum members are posting about their take and results of hand filing think i will have to decide if i can get by with a few hand sharping and paying $4 dollars for my dealer to do it.
Remember a Simington or a Silvey are normally for square chisel chain thatís different grinder completely from a round chisel chain grinder.
Thank you for the information i should have used maybe the Oregon 410 at around $190 dollars, still it's money spent for a sharping system more then a simple hand filing of our chains.
I am open to looking at other ways to sharpen my chains, i have seen this Timberline sharping jig selling for around $110 dollars still a lot more then what i have in my 2&1 sharpner that has worked pretty well so far but i am guessing not as well as a real shop sharping or using the Oregon sharpner.
This is the really good thing about this forum, lots of people who have used many different sharping systems letting us know what they have found good and bad about them.
What sort of cutters are on your chains? This will be the biggest factor in what kind of grinder youíre looking into. Another factor is how many chains youíre doing and what sort of quality you want from the grind.
Myself I have a Silvey Pro Sharp, a Tecomec Super Jolly, an Oregon 511A, and a Silvey 500. Each of these grinders fit a purpose for different tasks Iím also very picky on my chains.

Offline axeman2021

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Re: Grinder vs. file
« Reply #31 on: March 21, 2021, 08:08:25 PM »
After doing a search for the Timberline Carbide Sharping system. the lowest price found is at ACME Tool at $109.99, but what ACME does not tell buyers is they have to buy the size carbide cutter needed at $20 each it's not included.

Reading their reviews many buyers at ACME find this out only after their Timberline machine arrives and they find out they don't get a cutter, then they have to order one and pay the $20 and the shipping, not what i call honest dealing.

If you buy from Timbersharpner.com direct they include one carbide cutter at their $124.95 price.

Another item to keep in mind is with Stihls large 3/8 Pitch Chains, they differ from the industery standard in file sizing needed, they require a 13/64 file so you will need a 13/64 Cutter from Timberline.

Offline gspren

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Re: Grinder vs. file
« Reply #32 on: March 21, 2021, 08:35:44 PM »
My opinion only, the person doing the sharpening determines the quality. A good guy with a file will get a sharper chain than an average guy on a grinder while a good guy on the grinder will do better than the average guy with a file, I like and use a file.
Stihl 041, 044 & 261, JD 2355 4X4 w/fel, JD 620, Yamaha Kodiak 400 & trailer, Kubota 400 RTV,  P&M OWB, 75 acres to play.

Offline Greenhighlander

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Re: Grinder vs. file
« Reply #33 on: March 22, 2021, 04:29:59 AM »
I have always been really bad for filing down one side more then the other . I have tried everything I could think of to even it out by hand but for whatever reason I couldn't fix it.  That never really mattered doing trail cutting and firewood but I figured it did with milling so I bought one of these and have been really really happy with not only the job it does but how fast it is once I got use to using it.


(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

Could you tell me just what it is.
It is a Grandberg G-1012 XT precision grinder and it was worth every penny .

Offline Tacotodd

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Re: Grinder vs. file
« Reply #34 on: March 22, 2021, 06:58:09 AM »
Keep on hand filing. I started with gadgets, and now do all of my filing freehand. You WILL trash a few chains, but that educates you on what NOT to do.

As has been said before, file at every fuel stop. 2-3 quick and light strokes.
Trying harder everyday.

Offline dougtrr2

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Re: Grinder vs. file
« Reply #35 on: March 22, 2021, 08:53:28 AM »
I have a cheap version of the Grandberg G-1012 XT.  I went to an auto parts store and replaced the clamps with a cigarette lighter plug.  My tractor has a cigarette lighter socket that is much more accessible than the battery posts.

Doug in SW IA

Offline hedgerow

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Re: Grinder vs. file
« Reply #36 on: March 22, 2021, 10:22:21 AM »
I've got CBN wheels on my grinder and don't plan to hand file again unless it's an absolute necessity  ;)  Good wheels are the key to a good sharpening job with a grinder.
I just don't care for hand filing. I bought a buddy a 2in1 about ten years ago for a house warming gift and he loves it and uses it all the time. I have a couple old 308 belsaw sharpener's with CBN wheels on them and that works great for me. When my FIL was still around that guy could free hand file like nobody. 

Offline JJinAK

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Re: Grinder vs. file
« Reply #37 on: March 23, 2021, 03:54:15 PM »
I just bought the Oregon 520, and so far I'm impressed.  I've been able to get pretty good at hand filing, but over the life of a chain I do tend to drift on one side, and end up out of balance.  The set up of the grinder was really easy.  I run mostly skip chains, full chisel.  I'm not brave enough to try square chains yet, but after watching how easy @Skeans made it look, I might try one just for grins.

MS461
MS362

Offline Skeans1

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Re: Grinder vs. file
« Reply #38 on: March 23, 2021, 08:18:21 PM »
@JJinAK 
Setting up square chains can take a while to train your eye for what youíre looking for, if you do go this route donít be afraid to ask any questions.

Offline Old saw fixer

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Re: Grinder vs. file
« Reply #39 on: March 24, 2021, 10:37:25 AM »
     When I worked at Bradford's Saw Service, we ground chains on one of two machines.  One st up for chainsaws and one set up for harvester chain or bucksaw chain as we called it.  All I can say is William worked the bucksaw chain himself as it was deadly boring and dirty since it was lubed with waste oil.  The homeowner / firewood cutter's chains were always a mess, it seemed like they lost a lot of cutter length to even them up.  I much preferred a pile of loggers' saws to fix than chain sharpening...
     On my own chains I use an old Stihl FG 2, a jig I mount in the vise that uses a chain saw file.
Kind of slow, but so am I!  I would like a grinder, but I like I like nice things so that moves me up from entry level,to a Stihl USG or the like.  I like the round filed cutters personally.
Stihl FG 2, Stihl 036 Pro, 017, HT 132, MS 261 C-M, MSA 140 C-B, MS 462 C-M, MS 201 T C-M
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