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Author Topic: Bar selection  (Read 2489 times)

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Offline Night Raider

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Bar selection
« on: May 23, 2008, 08:58:27 AM »
I'm trying to decide if I should run a smaller bar on one of my saws.  The 2 I use the most are a Husky 42 and a stihl 361.  Currently I have an 18" bar on the husky and a 20" on the stihl, I had the 18" so the saw could do most of what I needed then I got the 361 and if there is anything larger I find myself reaching for the 361, for limbing the husky.  I was wondering if I should run a 15" or 16" on the 42 and how much advantage it would have, it is nice not having to bend over as much but a bit more power is always nice.  I'm mostly cutting firewood.
Also any comments on the Carlton bars on close out at baileys?

thanks

Offline little Bark

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Re: Bar selection
« Reply #1 on: May 23, 2008, 11:38:55 AM »
I run a 12" bar on my 350.  Most of the time when I'm limbing there not on the ground so the short bar doesn't bother me much.  And 95vp chain works well on that bar.
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Offline John Mc

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Re: Bar selection
« Reply #2 on: May 23, 2008, 03:10:20 PM »
If the husky 42 was your only saw, it might be worth keeping a longer bar on it. Since you have the 361 with the 20" bar for the bigger stuff, I'd be inclined to step down to the 16" on the 42. Working out on the end of a longer bar when limbing can be more tiring anyway... you're at the wrong end of a longer lever.

I don't enjoy all the bending either, but I try to use good body mechanics... bend with your legs, rather than always with the back. I have to remind myself to keep cutting up as close to the power head as I can, and keep the powerhead in close to my body. Seems like more work, but I'm definitely feeling better after a long day if I keep that in mind. Using a shorter bar helps as well... lighter, more maneuverable, and I'm not tempted to reach out as far.

John Mc
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Bar selection
« Reply #3 on: May 24, 2008, 07:17:06 AM »
NR,some saws just seem to balance best with a certin bar legnth.16" is a good legnth for fire wood and less teeth to file.For fire wood you want to be able to cut through the log from one side,what ever legnth that will do that most of the time and balances well is the one.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Offline SawTroll

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Re: Bar selection
« Reply #4 on: May 24, 2008, 08:56:22 AM »
I run a 12" bar on my 350.  Most of the time when I'm limbing there not on the ground so the short bar doesn't bother me much.  And 95vp chain works well on that bar.

I would go down to 15" and 95VP, not further..... :)
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Offline John Mc

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Re: Bar selection
« Reply #5 on: May 24, 2008, 09:51:44 AM »
Saw Troll -

Can you explain what the advantages are of 95VP over a .325" pitch chain? I've never run the 95VP.

John Mc
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Offline SawTroll

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Re: Bar selection
« Reply #6 on: May 24, 2008, 02:04:00 PM »
Saw Troll -

Can you explain what the advantages are of 95VP over a .325" pitch chain? I've never run the 95VP.

John Mc

The 95VP is a .325 chain, but a narrow kerf one, that require less power to pull it trough the wood.

It works really well on most 39-50cc saws, but not on the 5100S and NE346xp.....
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Offline Night Raider

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Re: Bar selection
« Reply #7 on: May 24, 2008, 03:33:20 PM »
Does the 95VP chain need to be run on a special Oregon bar (like they say) or can it be run on a standard bar?

thanks

Offline SawTroll

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Re: Bar selection
« Reply #8 on: May 25, 2008, 02:54:52 PM »
Does the 95VP chain need to be run on a special Oregon bar (like they say) or can it be run on a standard bar?

thanks

A narrow kerf/Pixel bar is preferable, and they all are .050.

The chain works on a standard bar when new, but it may not when the chain is filed back some (never tested it myself).
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