In our barn build we're having exposed 3x12 rc syp beams. over them i was planning on 6" car siding, but am wanting something lighter. Was looking at some reclaimed barn boards, but they must have gold plating or something. this will be the subfloor for the upstairs
Here's want i want to do. i'll get 2 week cut syp. 1x12x16'. maybe even 1-1/4. cut a 1/2 the depth by 1/2 wide on the table saw. stain one side and both edges with 2 coats. now i know it won't look perfect, but i don't want it to either. was thinking on reclaimed boards to begin with
any idea's on how it will look?
People are asking way too much for quality reclaimed stuff, especially in the volume you will need. I like the way you are thinking to go. All of the ceilings in my house are 2x6 t&g. They are also the subfloor for the second floor. I ended up also laying a layer of plywood on top of it with adhesive and screws for the subfloor. It ended up pretty springy without the plywood. Mine have no stain. Are you talking about white washing them. Two coats may look painted.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/IMG_20210528_134845.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1622227963)
When you say 2 week cut, do you mean 2 weeks off the mill? Not KD? If so then I think you will be very disappointed. 1x12's are going to shrink, cup, and crook on you and they will bleed pitch through the stain you apply.
Quote from: Southside on May 28, 2021, 03:52:55 PM
When you say 2 week cut, do you mean 2 weeks off the mill? Not KD? If so then I think you will be very disappointed. 1x12's are going to shrink, cup, and crook on you and they will bleed pitch through the stain you apply.
Thanks for the reply
Shrink - that's ok
Cup - couldn't as they wood be screwed down already
Crook - same thing
Bleed Pitch - that's an issue
How long wood they need to be air dried?
My understanding is that pitch becomes "set" at the highest temp it sees. For example if the wood spends enough time at a certain temp, it will not bleed again until it sees a higher temp. My logs have not bleed appreciably on the inside since the indoors of my home were air conditioned. The outside on the other hand has had areas where pitch continued to bleed for many years. That seems to tell me that you would not have a problem if the wood was dried for a while in the hot summer temps of OK and then brought into an air conditioned space.
They will still move and cup, even being screwed down. Some will pull screws heads through the fiber, some will pull screws out of what is holding them down, others will simply tear themselves apart. I had a home with a screwed down floor that now I understand was never properly dried. Gaps in all the boards, cup on many, some split. Never got around to refinishing it but it would have taken massive sanding and some hand held power planing to get it flat, it was bad.
Put it on stickers, put fans on it, and in a month-ish she should be down to 12 pct or so. I would not sell a customer shiplap at that MC but it's safe-ish. As FF said the pitch bleed will still be an issue for you. I set pine pitch at 160F in the kiln.
I am sure you can tell this is not a plan I would suggest to someone building a home, just trying to give you options and real world expectations on what you proposed.
@Southside (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=24297) told them to kiln it. Thanks