Beam Saw

[Edvantage]

I'll send photos of chainsaw setup. I dropped price  steel sheet acrossed my foot just behind steel toe > . Got bruise which turned to infection. Almost killed me from infection. Never broke the skin. Finally getting better after a month. 

[zinc oxide]

Let me see if I understand you right.  You are using a beam saw and gonna build a chicken coop?

Something else I didn't know, but makes perfect sense in retrospect.

Chickens are the descendants of dinosaurs! Who would've thunk it?

The neighbor lady up the Holler has a bunch and can't seem to keep them contained. Makes perfect sense now that I know that they are actually Tyrannosaurus'... in disguise.  Every time those chickens see me walking to the crick, they come a runnin' and cacklin'. I hardly have time to spread the feed for the turkeys and deer before barely escaping with my life by running back to the relative safety of the shed. (Out of sight, out of mind?) It makes me shudder, thinking that one day I may trip and fall. The horror.

 Clearly, I will need to build a substantial structure.

Figure I will need a Lignatool or Arunda  dovetail system for the roosts when I can afford them, until then I will have to settle for something I can contrive with the Mikita chain mortise tool which has yet to see the light of day. The various width chains start at only $400 +.
 
 it would be nice to have $6000 plus for the Mafell bandsaw, could probably make some kind of fancy curly cue ridge pole overhang to drape the remnants of any coyote  brave enough to venture near the chickens. Sure... The coyotes generally run from even fat old humans, but I don't think they would stand a chance against the local chickens.

 Apparently, Ryobi made one at some point in the past also. There is a gentleman who goes by the moniker 'samurai carpenter' I believe who has a lot of informative/entertaining videos. Somewhat of a unique personality.

Of course I want the bandsaw in question in the worst way, envy one of the seven deadly sins.  Actually thought about getting a job, at least until I could save up enough for the bandsaw and one of the dovetail systems... But it's getting kind of late in life to try new things.

  Thank You's  to those who spoke highly of the O... Something Brand saw blades, your testimonials are much appreciated.

[thecfarm]

Edvantage, just never know do ya? Take care, glad things are better now!!!

[Edvantage]

 
This is my beam cutter. Cut 6x12 rafters and 8x18 beams. Cuts perfectly square with speed square for guide. Clamp speed square on angle for rafter cuts. Finish is decent. I housed all my beam ends so smooth finish not as critical. Otherwise I finish with palm sander. Aluminum angles could be wider. I would suggest 2" angle iron. I milled slots for chain clearance. You could just use washers between bar and aluminum. 
 

[TimW]

Here is a pic of the saw. The owner at Timberwolf Tools claimed that of all the tools he sold me the portable BS would become my favorite- and he was right. I'm new to this timber framing technique and want to thank Don P again for his advise on my first try.

Tule Peak,
       Is that a Mafell Z5Ec?
                       hugs,  Brandi

[TimW]

I'll send photos of chainsaw setup. I dropped price  steel sheet acrossed my foot just behind steel toe > . Got bruise which turned to infection. Almost killed me from infection. Never broke the skin. Finally getting better after a month.

Ouch!  Guess I win the foot race by default.  After my foot surgeries, I got a staph infection and the that foot swelled up til it the skin stretched and it hurt BAD.   I hate taking antibiotics.
        hugs,  Brandi

[TimW]

This is my beam cutter. Cut 6x12 rafters and 8x18 beams. Cuts perfectly square with speed square for guide. Clamp speed square on angle for rafter cuts. Finish is decent. I housed all my beam ends so smooth finish not as critical. Otherwise I finish with palm sander. Aluminum angles could be wider. I would suggest 2" angle iron. I milled slots for chain clearance. You could just use washers between bar and aluminum.

Thanks.  I didn't realize it was so close to the power head.  I just might try that on a cordless saw, when I buy one.
hugs,  Brandi

[tule peak timber]

Here is a pic of the saw. The owner at Timberwolf Tools claimed that of all the tools he sold me the portable BS would become my favorite- and he was right. I'm new to this timber framing technique and want to thank Don P again for his advise on my first try.

Tule Peak,
      Is that a Mafell Z5Ec?
                      hugs,  Brandi

Yes it is a Mafell. I have my own foot story if you are interested, not saw related though. Rob

[Tom King]

Tom, On that Oshlun blade, did you get the 32 or 60 tooth blade?

I remembered to check today.  It's the lower tooth count blade.  I was actually surprised, remembering how perfectly smooth the cuts were.

[Don P]

With most common material, higher tooth count mainly sucks up horsepower and doesn't improve cut quality enough to matter. Sharp and steady means more.

[John S]

I have the new Skill wormdrive Supersawsquatch and have used it a few times.  It works great.  I cannot imagine getting a better quality cut from a chain saw.

[Dana Stanley]

My beam saw and mortising drill! Old Wen saw, and Chinese 1/2" drill. If I did more, I would get a Circular timber saw for angles and cleaner cut.

 

 

[TimW]

I tried the Super Sawsquatch today.  I has unbelievable torque when starting and stoping.  You really need to hang on to it.  It really is a huge, awkward saw.  I can see why you suppose to clamp the work down.  Learning curve continuing.
hugs,  Brandi

[nopoint]

Stay safe out there. I have the makita saw and personally I feel much safer picking up the chainsaw. Although the cut quality isn't there... but I still try.

[logman]

I just got a Sawsquatch, it is so much easier to cut with then the Makita.  

[TimW]

I just got a Sawsquatch, it is so much easier to cut with then the Makita.  

Glad to hear that.
  hugs,  Brandi

[TimW]

I used the Skil Super Supersawsquatch today.  Cut about 10, clamped down cuts.  I love it. 8) smiley_clapping smiley_blue_bounce smiley_flipping smiley_hollywood_cool   Takes a little learning curve on your sight line, as you are way behind the cutline.  I get it supported, resting on what I am cutting and a same size support behind and to the right.  Then I pull the trigger and wait for it to spool up.  Then I release the trigger before lifting off of the cut piece.  The brake stops it pretty fast.
hugs,  Brandi

[cib]

Well I'll take back my previous comment, the Makita has more guts than I give it credit for  :D

Bindian, I think I remember you had foot trouble. My big operator error with that saw was having my tennis shoe clad foot under the offcut when not paying attention. I wear an H wide boot now, tree frogged that poor thing.

I had that happen to myself about 3 weeks ago. I cut off a 2 foot section of a 7x10. It no feel good.

[Don P]

Bummer! I was on a job in IL with just the two of us so no backup and limped it off. I probably should have gone in. Over the years it has turned into a pretty big and tender knot of arthritis. If it broke it I'm not sure what they can do but it is probably worth giving the docs a shot at it.

We were talking with the farm manager this morning, the cows were frisky. She told us that a year or two ago they had some event going on and she arrived beforehand, dressed up and wearing open toed sandals. When she got there one of the cows was out and enjoying the garden. She was trying to move him, these jerseys are gentle enough but huge, and yup, he came down right on top of her foot. It's easy to take your transportation for granted till it goes down on you. Take the best care of it you can.

[doc henderson]

with most skill type saws, I line up the notch on the base, but watch the blade relative to the line as I cut.  gives you 2 points of reference, front of the base, and the front of the blade.

[TimW]

Well I'll take back my previous comment, the Makita has more guts than I give it credit for  :D

Bindian, I think I remember you had foot trouble. My big operator error with that saw was having my tennis shoe clad foot under the offcut when not paying attention. I wear an H wide boot now, tree frogged that poor thing.

I had that happen to myself about 3 weeks ago. I cut off a 2 foot section of a 7x10. It no feel good.

I understand completely.  I have always worn work boots.  But with getting older and after 3 foot surgeries, I need to wear extremely cushioned ($$$)  running shoes. 
But I had on cheap ($50) tennis shoes and dropped a 4x4 on top of my foot.  Ouch.  Today, while building my Grand daughter's Christmas present.  Working with the 4x4s again, I wore my work boots.
            hugs,  Brandi

[Ljohnsaw]

ere's the one I took off yesterday, its been run a little too long, and this was its third sharpening, but I'll get it sharpened again and put it back in service.

YH, What does it cost to have your blade sharpened?  Assuming pretty reasonable vs. buying a new blade?  I have an original Makita (IIRC) and a Diablo blade that could use sharpening.  My used saw came with another Diablo but it is missing a few teeth and I'll be tossing that one in the trash.

Having used my Makita over the last summer, it is much better than using a standard skilsaw and hand cutting the rest, but I find it very awkward to use since it is "left handed".  Also a little underpowered.  I don't get why they made it like that.  I found a brand new Super Sawswatch SPT70V (Amazon list $699 discounted to $549 now) on BidRL auction site that I picked up for $365 out the door.  I'll have to check what I paid for my used Makita ($250?) and see what I can sell it for to recoup some money.

Looking forward to this summer using the new saw with my new-to-me generator that can handle these saws.
free generator

[Don P]

Don't toss the blade, if you can find a good saw shop or sawdoc mine can retip, tension, bend them back into shape after a wreck, generally cheaper than new, and a few have run better than new. 

[Old Greenhorn]

ere's the one I took off yesterday, its been run a little too long, and this was its third sharpening, but I'll get it sharpened again and put it back in service.

YH, What does it cost to have your blade sharpened?  Assuming pretty reasonable vs. buying a new blade?  I have an original Makita (IIRC) and a Diablo blade that could use sharpening.  My used saw came with another Diablo but it is missing a few teeth and I'll be tossing that one in the trash.

Having used my Makita over the last summer, it is much better than using a standard skilsaw and hand cutting the rest, but I find it very awkward to use since it is "left handed".  Also a little underpowered.  I don't get why they made it like that.  I found a brand new Super Sawswatch SPT70V (Amazon list $699 discounted to $549 now) on BidRL auction site that I picked up for $365 out the door.  I'll have to check what I paid for my used Makita ($250?) and see what I can sell it for to recoup some money.

Looking forward to this summer using the new saw with my new-to-me generator that can handle these saws.
free generator

Left Handed? I have used one of these I borrowed from a good friend and I loved it. But I wouldn't call it left handed. I would just call it heavy and powerful. :D I have never seen more than the one version of the saw.
 Could you put up a photo of this left handed saw? If it's what I think and you really do want to unload it, maybe we can talk? (Of course the FF considerations will apply.) I really liked that makita, even though it scared a little me at first, you don't want it getting away from you. ;D

[Ljohnsaw]

 Don't get me wrong.  I'm not saying that the Makita is a bad saw, just could stand some improvements.  Maybe a redesign...


Note that the motor is on the left side of the blade (left handed).  There is an aux handle up front that my left hand is gripping.  To see what you are cutting, you have to lean way over to the right.  It is just backwards from any other saw I've used and awkward to use a lot.  It's just the way Makita makes these.  I've made a LOT of cuts with it and have a TON more to do so I've been reading/researching.

My new Skilsaw is a worm drive so the balance is better with the motor inline with the base plate and is on the right side of the blade.  The auxiliary handle, which can be attached to the front of the shoe or the upper blade guide, is still on the left side.  The idea behind attaching it to the shoe is when you are cutting angles, you have better control and comfort.  You grip it with your left hand and is basically over your cut line.  Very comfortable.  Also, the Skilsaw shoe is a big magnesium casting that is stiff as opposed to the Makita that is stamped steel and somewhat flimsy.  The Skilsaw has a front and rear lock for the bevel angle adjustment - very sturdy.  The only thing missing is a spot to store the aux handle so it is not sticking out during transport or storage.  I'll probably cut a spot in the blow-mold storage/transport base (another nice feature!)  And the power cord is 10' long.