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Resawing 6/4

Started by Pepe_Silvia, November 27, 2019, 05:57:41 PM

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Ed_K

 I ended up having Rita push the saw while I pushed down on the board with a crowbar. It worked out ok but real slow trying to keep the bar close but not in the mills way.
 I did some garden stakes that started a 2"x 6"s and the boards I was given were wavy from 2" to 11/4" to start. I don't like reworking other's work  :o .
Ed K

Pepe_Silvia

Quote from: barbender on December 02, 2019, 11:07:03 PM
I'm telling you man, make a resaw jig with hold downs and feed the material through the saw, not vice versa like normal.
Ok, I will take this advise.  May have to reschedule because I'm not sure I'll have time, but that's fine.
Quote from: Nomad on December 03, 2019, 08:17:24 AM
    Got to agree with Barbender.  Spend an hour and make an Arky resaw jig.  Chain the saw head in place and push the boards through.
You severely overestimate how fast I can work.  ;D  The head has lockdowns built in so that should be helpful at least.



Woodmizer LT15Wide GO, John Deere 318D Skid Steer

Crusarius

Quote from: JoshNZ on November 27, 2019, 08:24:42 PM
Why don't we use carbide tipped bands for general milling?

I did that. was great. Up until I found 2 drywall screws in a 22" walnut. that was a costly mistake.

Rhodemont

My most common boards are 1 x 6 oak for fencing.  I take as many as I can but always leave a 6x6 which is my second most common.  Figure can make more 1x6 from a 6x if needed but not a 6x from a 1x.  When I have resawn have learned to take 3/8 inch off the top which curls because dry at surface and still wet interior.  Then flip the bottom last 1 1/2 board and take 3/8 outter surface off it as well.  End up with five nice 1x6 rather than four nice boards and two potato chips when I tried to get all six. (going after that last one still makes my heart beat even though I know the blade will clear the stops)
Woodmizer LT35HD    JD4720 with Norse350 winch
Stihl 362, 039, Echo CS-2511T,  CS-361P and now a CSA 300 C-O

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