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036 ate another wrist pin clip

Started by Tom King, June 02, 2020, 09:49:52 AM

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Tom King

This is the third one this saw has eaten in 21 years.  They have always been some years apart, but I forget to keep up with how long between.  I think it was in 2012 when I put the last cylinder kit on it.  This is the only saw I've ever had this happen to.  I used OEM clips. It was probably getting due for another cylinder anyway, but it's strange that the same thing happens.  Any ideas?

sawguy21

old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

ladylake

 Are you installing them right with the open ends either at the 12 o clock or 6 o clock position.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Tom King

I can't remember exactly what I did yesterday, so am hopeless about 8 years ago.  I'll do them like that this time.

I think the last cylinder kit was a Meteor, but since it had eaten the wrist pin clip, I used OEM clips.

It's hard to say how much use it's had.  I let the two guys that work for me cut their firewood with that saw, so it's had some use that I don't see.  It just seemed strange that the final event is the eaten clip every time.  It ate the factory one the first time, but that's been enough years past that I don't remember how many years it ran the first time.

I've never split the case on that one, and the bottom end is still as tight as a new one.

Air Lad

Could there be some inherrent vibration from somewhere causing this situation. Bottom end/top end bearing issue? Most unusual with other p & c's having the same outcome.

Tom King

Vibration is a good theory, but I really don't think so.  It's been my favorite saw to operate for a long time, and even with the old AV system, compared to newer ones, it's not an unsmooth saw to handle.

I'll just stick another cylinder kit on it, and see if it will run for another 8 years.  It's been a good one, even if it doesn't.  I'm keeping it for my own use now, and gave the guys a 290 that someone gave to me.

Hilltop366

Seems odd but apparently the saw owes you nothing, I guess you could change the clips at 7 years for the price of two clips and a gasket(s)?

Wondering if the connecting rod has some extra side to side play causing the wrist pin to tap on the clip, that may eventually push the clip out.

ladylake

Make sure to get the open end of the clips either at the 12 or 6 position.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Tom King

A little update:   I'm having too hard of a time getting all the metal scards out of the crankcase, even after leaving it upside down with the parts washer shooting up into it for a half hour, so I ordered a new aftermarket crankshaft assembly for it, since I need to split it anyway.

The aftermarket crank kit, with new bearings was $62 with shipping, so it's probably worth putting that much more back into it.  Maybe it'll last for a while yet, but if it doesn't run for another year, or two without going back into it, it's been a good one.

Greenerpastures

Would you trust the non OEM bearings, lots of people change them for Stihl bearings and seals.

You certainly got your money's worth of cutting from that saw.
I would sell it, as there is bound be other components nearing the end of their life too, that means more down time, diagnoses and parts, is it worth the time and hassle.

Real1shepherd

I've never understood why somebody that's had a saw and used it for a long life, would put back cheap aftermarket parts in it. To me, I 'reward' the saw by putting back in the best parts & bearings I could find. Unless you've spun a crank bearing or damaged the case halves somehow, the saw should be like new again.

But given the state of aftermarket parts out there, trying to dodge all the cheap parts and China crank bearings, my outlook is not shared by most. Even if you go OE or Meteor et al, you're still well under the price of a new saw similar to what you have. The crankshaft in particular is a very precision piece of kit. 

Kevin

Tom King

Valid points, but I'm not using that saw for a living, or even making any money with it.  I'll just use it when I need a saw that size around the farm.  I certainly won't sell it, and pass on problems to someone else.

These parts are cheap as dirt, so if they crap out, I'm not out much for a 21 year old saw.

I have a hundred acres of Pines I need to do some selective secondary thinning on in about a year, and am planning on getting a 261CM from Mastermind to do that with.  Seeing the latest on the next version of that saw, I'm glad I decided to wait closer to the time I need it.  I wouldn't want to tote this saw off into the woods to do that with, and have to end up walking back out with a dead saw.

Mad Professor

Quote from: Tom King on June 11, 2020, 09:47:23 PM
Valid points, but I'm not using that saw for a living, or even making any money with it.  I'll just use it when I need a saw that size around the farm.  I certainly won't sell it, and pass on problems to someone else.

These parts are cheap as dirt, so if they crap out, I'm not out much for a 21 year old saw.

I have a hundred acres of Pines I need to do some selective secondary thinning on in about a year, and am planning on getting a 261CM from Mastermind to do that with.  Seeing the latest on the next version of that saw, I'm glad I decided to wait closer to the time I need it.  I wouldn't want to tote this saw off into the woods to do that with, and have to end up walking back out with a dead saw.


Better chance of walking out of the woods with a dead saw that has new Chinesium parts in it, than used OEM.
I am curious about the wrist pin problem?  I've have two 036 pros, one I got used 25 years ago, the other I got free that someone straight gassed 2007. On the later the OEM cylinder cleaned up and I put new OEM piston assy in it along with new seals and the clutch drum up grade.
The only problem I've had with either, was the first one had the clutch bearing grenade.  I put in the clutch drum upgrade with the bigger bearing.
The 036 is about my favorite saw for medium size work, they just balance/feel right with a 20" bar and have decent power stock.

Tom King

Quote from: Mad Professor on June 12, 2020, 12:39:20 AM
Quote from: Tom King on June 11, 2020, 09:47:23 PM
Valid points, but I'm not using that saw for a living, or even making any money with it.  I'll just use it when I need a saw that size around the farm.  I certainly won't sell it, and pass on problems to someone else.

These parts are cheap as dirt, so if they crap out, I'm not out much for a 21 year old saw.

I have a hundred acres of Pines I need to do some selective secondary thinning on in about a year, and am planning on getting a 261CM from Mastermind to do that with.  Seeing the latest on the next version of that saw, I'm glad I decided to wait closer to the time I need it.  I wouldn't want to tote this saw off into the woods to do that with, and have to end up walking back out with a dead saw.


Better chance of walking out of the woods with a dead saw that has new Chinesium parts in it, than used OEM.
I am curious about the wrist pin problem?  I've have two 036 pros, one I got used 25 years ago, the other I got free that someone straight gassed 2007. On the later the OEM cylinder cleaned up and I put new OEM piston assy in it along with new seals and the clutch drum up grade.
The only problem I've had with either, was the first one had the clutch bearing grenade.  I put in the clutch drum upgrade with the bigger bearing.
The 036 is about my favorite saw for medium size work, they just balance/feel right with a 20" bar and have decent power stock.
That's why I'm getting a new saw for the in woods work.  If enough work for a 60 cc saw presents itself, I'll just get a new version.  This one is probably tired in more ways than are apparent right now.  I'll post after I get it running with the cheap parts, and see how it goes.

Mad Professor

Quote from: Tom King on June 12, 2020, 07:51:36 AM
Quote from: Mad Professor on June 12, 2020, 12:39:20 AM
Quote from: Tom King on June 11, 2020, 09:47:23 PM
Valid points, but I'm not using that saw for a living, or even making any money with it.  I'll just use it when I need a saw that size around the farm.  I certainly won't sell it, and pass on problems to someone else.

These parts are cheap as dirt, so if they crap out, I'm not out much for a 21 year old saw.

I have a hundred acres of Pines I need to do some selective secondary thinning on in about a year, and am planning on getting a 261CM from Mastermind to do that with.  Seeing the latest on the next version of that saw, I'm glad I decided to wait closer to the time I need it.  I wouldn't want to tote this saw off into the woods to do that with, and have to end up walking back out with a dead saw.


Better chance of walking out of the woods with a dead saw that has new Chinesium parts in it, than used OEM.
I am curious about the wrist pin problem?  I've have two 036 pros, one I got used 25 years ago, the other I got free that someone straight gassed 2007. On the later the OEM cylinder cleaned up and I put new OEM piston assy in it along with new seals and the clutch drum up grade.
The only problem I've had with either, was the first one had the clutch bearing grenade.  I put in the clutch drum upgrade with the bigger bearing.
The 036 is about my favorite saw for medium size work, they just balance/feel right with a 20" bar and have decent power stock.
That's why I'm getting a new saw for the in woods work.  If enough work for a 60 cc saw presents itself, I'll just get a new version.  This one is probably tired in more ways than are apparent right now.  I'll post after I get it running with the cheap parts, and see how it goes.
You won't have fun working on the new saws.  The 036 is pretty simple. Look at carb setup for MS362 vs 036....then there is M-tronic fun.
I'd find good used OEM crank and cylinder.  Use a meteor piston/rings and OEM bearings.  Gasket seal set, rubber parts as needed, carb kit, filters.  The clutch upgrade if yours has the small bearing. Only other wear items are oil pump/bar + chain.
I got a straight gassed 036 for free.  It didn't need crank, and cylinder cleaned up.  I had about $200 into it including stihl piston, new ES B/C, clutch upgrade, and rubber/filters as needed. It's close to as new.


 

 

 
IMHO my time is worth more than I can save by using Chi-Com parts that won't last as long as OEM

Tom King

I may decide to put the crank, and bearings back in it that are in it now.  They don't seem bad, but I'll be splitting it to clean it out good.  I'll not open the cheap crank kit, and send it back if the original parts are okay, on close inspection.  I expect this one is as good as any other used one I could find.

I just want to get it back together in the same session that I take it apart.  I already have too many different things in the middle of processes, including this one, so far.

Hilltop366

Back to the wrist pin issue, I mentioned connecting rod side play but forgot to mention crank end play.

Either way I'm wondering if a movement of the crank or connecting rod could cause the wrist pin problem.

Was the wrist pin to one side as well or just the clip gone off the piston?

Tom King

Didn't appear that the pin had moved.  Clip just gone off end.  Not sure how it was the other two times, because those were years ago, and years apart.

Haven't had a chance to get back to work on it, but all the parts are here.

There doesn't feel like any play anywhere in the bottom end, but too much metal detritus in it to get out without splitting it.  There has to be some in the bearings, I would think.

Greenerpastures

Quote from: Tom King on June 15, 2020, 10:20:41 AM
Didn't appear that the pin had moved.  Clip just gone off end.  Not sure how it was the other two times, because those were years ago, and years apart.

Haven't had a chance to get back to work on it, but all the parts are here.

There doesn't feel like any play anywhere in the bottom end, but too much metal detritus in it to get out without splitting it.  There has to be some in the bearings, I would think.
You could get the crank split and fit a new OEM bearing, and OEM  seals and case bearings, that should keep your saw running for a long time.
As mentioned, no MT carb or related issues on that saw, if that matters to you.

Greenerpastures

Quote from: Mad Professor on June 12, 2020, 11:16:57 AM
Quote from: Tom King on June 12, 2020, 07:51:36 AM
Quote from: Mad Professor on June 12, 2020, 12:39:20 AM
Quote from: Tom King on June 11, 2020, 09:47:23 PM
Valid points, but I'm not using that saw for a living, or even making any money with it.  I'll just use it when I need a saw that size around the farm.  I certainly won't sell it, and pass on problems to someone else.

These parts are cheap as dirt, so if they crap out, I'm not out much for a 21 year old saw.

I have a hundred acres of Pines I need to do some selective secondary thinning on in about a year, and am planning on getting a 261CM from Mastermind to do that with.  Seeing the latest on the next version of that saw, I'm glad I decided to wait closer to the time I need it.  I wouldn't want to tote this saw off into the woods to do that with, and have to end up walking back out with a dead saw.


Better chance of walking out of the woods with a dead saw that has new Chinesium parts in it, than used OEM.
I am curious about the wrist pin problem?  I've have two 036 pros, one I got used 25 years ago, the other I got free that someone straight gassed 2007. On the later the OEM cylinder cleaned up and I put new OEM piston assy in it along with new seals and the clutch drum up grade.
The only problem I've had with either, was the first one had the clutch bearing grenade.  I put in the clutch drum upgrade with the bigger bearing.
The 036 is about my favorite saw for medium size work, they just balance/feel right with a 20" bar and have decent power stock.
That's why I'm getting a new saw for the in woods work.  If enough work for a 60 cc saw presents itself, I'll just get a new version.  This one is probably tired in more ways than are apparent right now.  I'll post after I get it running with the cheap parts, and see how it goes.
You won't have fun working on the new saws.  The 036 is pretty simple. Look at carb setup for MS362 vs 036....then there is M-tronic fun.
I'd find good used OEM crank and cylinder.  Use a meteor piston/rings and OEM bearings.  Gasket seal set, rubber parts as needed, carb kit, filters.  The clutch upgrade if yours has the small bearing. Only other wear items are oil pump/bar + chain.
I got a straight gassed 036 for free.  It didn't need crank, and cylinder cleaned up.  I had about $200 into it including stihl piston, new ES B/C, clutch upgrade, and rubber/filters as needed. It's close to as new.


 

 

 
IMHO my time is worth more than I can save by using Chi-Com parts that won't last as long as OEM
I plan on giving the Chinese nothing more as a reward for their inflicting the world with disease, would rather pay double for a saw or parts not made in China, I think we should all contact businesses with China plants and express our dissatisfaction and intentions to them, bring the manufacturing to our own locales.

Spike60

OEM clips are better quality than AM, but not always a better fit in some aftermarket pistons. Sometimes they are too loose in the groove in which case you need to use the AM clips and hope they hold up.

Always a crap shoot with any of these AM kits, but getting 8 years out of a kit with 3 guys using it is probably as good as can be expected with this stuff.
Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

Tom King

Yeah, I can't complain about what the saw has done.  Just odd that it was always the same fatal event.

Still haven't had time to fool with it, but have all the parts now.

Was wondering about putting 272 Locktite on the clips??

sawguy21

It wouldn't hurt to try but I doubt if it would make any difference. I have only seen wrist pin clip failures a few times in a 40+ year career but have never used aftermarket pistons, doing it over costs too much time and money. @Greenerpastures we have nobody to blame but ourselves for the state of the market. Walmart, Harborfreight and Amazon thrive because the driving force is price.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Greenerpastures

Quote from: Tom King on June 11, 2020, 09:47:23 PM
I certainly won't sell it, and pass on problems to someone else.
Am not suggesting that at all, I meant you could advertise and sell your saw mentioning the issues, a buyer may be looking for a case, a cylinder, a crank, panels muffler air box parts etc, so the piston clip may be of no signivigence, lots of people buy parts saws.

Real1shepherd

Quote from: sawguy21 on June 25, 2020, 11:40:12 AM
It wouldn't hurt to try but I doubt if it would make any difference. I have only seen wrist pin clip failures a few times in a 40+ year career but have never used aftermarket pistons, doing it over costs too much time and money. @Greenerpastures we have nobody to blame but ourselves for the state of the market. Walmart, Harborfreight and Amazon thrive because the driving force is price.
It's the same mindset responsible for the Chinese invasion of cheap stuff. It's brought us to the precipice of having only cheap parts and cheap machinery/tools/engines for our choices in everything.  

Kevin

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